Dru

Ok, what about climate change? Important to ice and alpine climbers maybe more than bolt clipping crag monkeys. But are forest fires increasing in frequency? Smith, Skaha, Peshastin, Icicle have all been burnt recently...

So you don't think Fee Demo is in the top 10 Matt?

Saw on ukclimbing.com Sounds so typically British, Oh I say let's sit around and listen to leading climbers debate the issues.... and charge admission... What are the biggest issues with the "State of PNW climbing?" Bolts next to gear? Loss of access? Dangerous trad routes stopping the development of sport climbing? Prana tops? Dwayner's silly Yakov Smirnov pictures?

Magic X vs. magic

I bet they'd love that if you posted it here

Snoboy can make me heads too.

i think the shockload would partially compensate for the lower distance... but I think you are correct. When RP's came out they recommended using them in series as a shock absorber... sew a crack up with 6 of them, when you fell, the force would pull or break the first 4 or 5, then the force would be low enough that the 6th one would hold you

Don't go ruining my good hypothetical situation with some sort of weasel logic here!

Midway is a sport climb? Anyhow I seem to recall you can get a gear belay in the top of Damnation or something...

I bet DFA is sooo jealous he doesn't have sexy scars from his GriGri.

...and when you have a climber hanging on the rope with an ATC or Pyramid, and you are trying to feed rope to/from the other climber?....

If you are sitting on ledge with bolts at your feet - blame the dumbass who put up the route. Can you name a real live, actual example of such a route to support your hypothetical what-if?

RIP Rodchester

if you can call the Scots painting their asses blue and raising their kilts "resisting" Gowans?

Muffy won! :-X

screamers on each piece man!

WA Pass stuff like clean Break

Lets say your individual sucky pieces will hold 6, 8 and 9 kn. Climber falls and exerts 15 Kn of force at an angle to the anchor. Three way sliding X puts 5 kn of force on each piece... you both live because nothing pulls. "Regular" equalized-with-a-big-knot cordelette loads asymmetrically and puts all the 15kN on one of your three pieces...which blows...then the next...which blows...then the third... RIP you. This is more or less the purported scenario from the Tahquitz accident. Sliding X is not perfect for the resons you note, but does have its place as in the scenario I just described. A blanket condemnation of a belay anchor technique which under some circumstances is the safest thing to use, serves no one well.

but so much fun when they happen to your partner!

how much for just the following stuff? 7 Long old pins & blades -9 Soft steel pins (Limestone) -5 Leepers -2 BD Knifeblades -5 Lost Arrows 3 Bird Beaks -6 Rurps -2 Peckers -Tiny Wires -Various Hooks -Few Heads don't want the rest of it

it distributes the force evenly so is less likely to max out any one piece and cause the first failure in the cascade of failing pieces

Agreed, since I got Reverso I stopped using a Pyramid and now need only 2 hands.

"within earshot"? its way, way easier to traverse high and cut off the edge of the triangle than to follow the creek all the way.

If the anchors are poor it may be better to equalize and distribute force than to sequentially weight and pop. It was suggested that the accident resulting in 2 deaths earlier this year on Tahquitz would have been avoided if the belayer had been using a sliding X rather than individually anchored to each piece. Certainly this is less relevant when anchor is a nice sport bolt pair but still worth knowing.

That's exactly what happened during the middle years of the Roman Empire. The newly conquered territories, for the most part, didn't put up much of a resistance because they knew they would be better off as a Roman province. Up until the Christian era, provinces were allowed to worship their own gods and have their own cultures as long as they paid taxes to the Empire and acknowledged the Roman gods. Even some of the barbarian tribes, specifically the Vandals and Visigoths, just wanted to be accepted as Romans. year 52 roman empire. These guys didn't want to accept shit. The revolt in Gaul, in which tribes for the first time acted in concert, had soon taken hold of half the country. ... Vercingetorix detested the Romans..... He represented the national cause. He was joined by many tribes - the Senones, Parisii, Pictones, Cadurci, Turoni, Aulerci, Lemovices, and Andes... The gallic army invaded the Roman province of Tansalpina.. set fires to towns that could not be defended. damn gauls! "These Romans are crazy"