Dru

why didnt you just tie a huge knot in the trail line and jam it in the crack? that'd learn 'em far faster than some scolding from an aggro chica.

the atc is not recommended because you really need 3 hands to work it when belaying 2 at once. danger danger sketchbirdseat

compare fatswaller post to alex post your choice of beta and grades!

howe did you guess

1) cool fall temps and early season alpine ice. snow on many higher peaks. 2) butterflies in bangkok flapping their wings 3) its going to be colder than here

so where on multipitch sport are the anchors placed below the ledge then? and why was his example using Vantage, archetypical single pitch crag?

Vote _Nodder

They haven't forgotten Osama they have him in double secret confinement waiting for his capture to be trumpeted 5 days before the election to help out Bushie Jr. with the last minute polls.

can't you make it flash red and blue?

If the bolts are below the ledge it is because you are supposed to LOWER OFF not sit around belaying at the top.

I think you should climb the Willis Wall. With freshiez and cold temps it should be primo for a new human-dog speed record!

what would you do if an otter chewed off the No Tea of your _nodder?

if you practiced rapping off hooks like in the "ball of twine" thread you would know rap slings are superfluous to the lightweight speed climber anyway

I've got a purple helmet

99% of the people anchoring on a sport route will just use 2 regular quickdraws. but back to your question.... the two quickdraws will not equalize whereas the magic x will. if the climb traverses at all below the anchor instead of being straight up and down, then there may be a point where you have unequal weighting of the draws or even all the force on one draw. in this situation the sliding X would be stronger even though not as redundant. so yes it is 6 of one half dozen of other.

why do you guys even open spam to read it?

why do you carry 4 locking biners on a sport route anyway? are you one of those guys who takes prussiks and tiblocks to the gym?

How did the border guards like your sheep artwork???

does alpine rock count it was looking like a close thing on sunday though!

where is the new avatar "sling_cutting_thief"

ever try and lower someone off from partway up a pitch with a hip belay? ow.

exactly - my point being we don't see threads about "ropes are safe. i always wear a rope. it is a simple thing to do that can make you a lot safer. if this climber had been using a rope he might be alive today." ropes, like harnesses, are safety equipment and can be used where desired.

What about free soloing, should you wear a helmet while doing it???

i know some people that have climbed it Canadian Rockies 5.9 A2? more like Squamish 5.9 A2 complete with mosquitoes, wet rock and vegetation filled cracks.

Regarding helmet use: it is all very well to preach consistent helmet use but consider this - a guy I know was hiking up the trail to Castle Crags and fell down on some scree. Hit his head and damaged brain, was a wheelchair driver for several years, has now regained partial functioning of legs. Also part of face paralyzed, slurs speech, people assume he is retarded although he isn't. How many "I always wear a helmet" people wear their helmets on the approach from the parking lot consistently? I guess not many. Point being the helmet can be an annoyance and of minimal benefit in some situations; choosing where to put on the helmet should be a personal decision not some mandatory requirement.