Dru

That Maria Coffey book about how all climbers are suicidal ranked pretty low too. And ditto the crappy Andrew Todhunter book supposedly about Dan Osman but mainly about Andrew Todhunter.

see der alex huber free solo der kommunist 14a video!

ok.... so in this pitch why did you go into the jungle instead of straight up the apparently 3rd class meadow above the snow patch? in other words, follow the edge of the shadow...

but what if they want to fight your pack?

i only own one 21 and i own about a dozen screws, ok 16 but some are old and useless.... anyways i usually take 2x17 titaniums for glacier walking or whatever so you shouldnt believe anything i say

Yes!

Any forecasts over 5 days are fairy tales.

Ament is bad. Real bad. I liked Dave Harris's "Vortex" though. But by far the worst has got to be two pieces by Bob Cotter akas Robert Cordery-Cotter, in the CAJ and another one of his in High Mountain Sports. It is the worst writing I have ever read let alone worst climbing literature!

If only it had crashed earlier, it was coming in right over Bend. It could have lodged in the Monkey's mouth! P1: climb 4th class lab to short corner and traverse ledge above to belay. p2: climb A0 bolt ladder to Monkey's mouth. p3: stem off space capsule and up onto monkey's nose! p4: 5.4 to the top

21 cm is better for abalakovs, deeper is stronger. but you can make an abalakov with one screw, one hole at a time. really i have to say there is no difference between 1x17 and 1x21, or 2x21, except the weight so you might as well get one of each.

17 cm is "standard". 21 cm is "long". 21s are a bitch and I never use them for anything but belays or glacier travel.

The persistence model and recurrence model are 60% accurate, and the best computer models are no more accurate than persistence or recurrence at predicting the forecast 5 days from now.

MY GOD YOU ARE RIGHT! I forgot the 0.0000000001% chance a coin will land on its edge! So it's only a 49.9999999999% success rate

You forgot to add the good old standard "flip a coin" model - heads it rains, tails its sunny. 50% success rate is only 10% less accurate than the supercomputers!

Lighter, cheaper, more durable, cooler, and not from a company specializing in perma-recalls... sure sounds like "suck" to me alright

there is a Friend that is the exact size a 2.5 Camalot would be

But as access to some areas decreases access to other areas increases in BC... now the summit of Urquhart is 2 hrs from the car, there's a great new road to the east side of Gemse, they just finish a rebuild on the Settler road last weekend etc. etc.

you have DSB and it is backing up into your leg.

can deadlift like a mofo but can't walk 10 feet.

lol Sabre is up to 5.6 on the "comprehensive online guidebook" that only lists 2 routes at L'worth. Creeping grade inflation made real!

It takes 3 hours to hike the old road if you start at the point where Shannon Creek road branches off Stawamus-Indian FSR, ie. right at the start. Here is the beta: More like 5-6 pitches of class 3-4 bush ledges with short sections of easy rock in between