Dru

quote: Originally posted by allison: yes, I have had to slam this window shut at work a couple of times where embarassing stuff came up. oh and it had nothing to do with the fact you were surfing cc.com when you should have been working, right

Spray it dont say it Two may enter the battle cage but only one leaves and its gonna be me bucko! If you want to have your priest show up now for your last rites you can borrow my cell phone to call him

quote: Originally posted by rr666: I am curious what all you aid climbers out there use as your 'biner of choice. So far I have always taken the approach that I already have enough 'biners, why should I buy more. However, aid climbing requires many biners, and there is a lot of weight to be saved... If I buy more, I might grab a few wires, but can they handle aid climbing, or do the wires get bent to s$*@#... Wiregates are good for aid climbing. I think Kong even makes a wiregate oval but dont quote me on that cause i read it in a biner gear review in some Euro mag, it could have been some other company. Then again you are aid climbing, who cares how much it weighs (unless you are reducing the load on your equalized #0 circleheads and you can just send the excess down thje zipline then anyways)? Hauling is hauling! Aid climbing is usually neither fast nor light so take the heavy stuff and kick back.

quote: Originally posted by gregm: sigs come and gotalking of michelangelo what a poet. or are you just high?

quote: Originally posted by trask: OOps, meant Locke. Lowry sucked too. Fuck I'm old. don't start with me Dru [ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: trask ] I can pound you into next week just by breathing, wimpy Ill start anything I damn well feel like whatever. Go back to bed.

whatever happened to the flashing Beckey sig, fortier?

quote: Originally posted by philfort: Poutine is a culinary delicacy exported from Quebec, consisting of french fries topped with cheese curds and gravy. Or you can get it "Au Michigan", and that's with a tomato meet sauce instead of gravy.Usually the first half of your plate is delicious, then the last half becomes revolting. tomato meet?

quote: Originally posted by flick: Jack Tors- Character from Jerkey Boys jokes. Thanks flick. I see you are a rope lead now. Only 3500 posts to go huh

quote: Originally posted by imorris: I didn't realize how high the coast range was up there. shhhhh quote: If you want a remote, wild trip w/luxury of hut, I highly recommend heading into the Clemenceau Group (#10 on that list) w/ a stay at the Grassi hut, which sits at a phenomenal location. Yeah, there is a hut near Waddington too! Plummer hut. Fly in or hike for a few days through grizzlies and bush. Great rock climbing at hut door and basecamp for big Wadd and other mighty summits. Fend of the falaffelhounds trying to eat your 2 weeks of food. Smoke up the hut pineyK style during weather breaks.

quote: Originally posted by CascadeClimber: Dru- Did you see the Nat. Geo. special on those monks? Each year in Feb they trek from their monastary at 16,000 up to 18k and sleep outside all night with nothing more than their robes. Many make the trek barefoot. No frostbite, no shivering. Now there is a mountaineering skill to have. I tried it myself. Apparently you are supposed to meditate, go into a trance, and visualize a flame spreading from the center of your body out to your extremities and heating you up. I got as far as the trance part Im gonna keep trying though, so I can ditch the fleece and down and climb everything wrapped in a wet cotton sheet.

quote: Originally posted by avypoodle: [ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: avypoodle ] Thanks for sharing.

Yeah sure chongo. you ever hear of Ixtlan?

quote: Originally posted by max: I had always thought (assumed) thermogenesis refered to a geologic process pertinant to Rainier. Obviously I could be wrong. Yup, you are. Tibetan Buddhist monks learned controlled thermogenesis. to prove they can do it they get put in a wet ice cave with seven wet sheets wrapped around their body and they cantcome out until all the sheets are dry. Or so I read in a book about tibet Sounds cheaper than buying a MET5 but probably takes longer to learn how to operate. I bet Twight can do it though. That guy knows brain synchronization OOOOH!!!!

Isnt a jackotar someone from Newfoundland?

quote: Originally posted by avypoodle: speaking of healthy food......I would like to ask Dru, what the hell is wrong with your guys up there? Poutine? I am all for greasy food, but you guys are taking the shit way over the top!!! it is colder up here in the frozen North. so we gotta eat more fat. we burn more too. you guys (80% overweight and 60% obese or something) need some cold weather down there to burn off that lard.

Personal recommendations (only stuff I have done) The FoxBlack OrpheusTunnel VisionFroglandOlive OilYinYang (given 11a but easier)Cat in the HatBrass Wall trad routes (cragging)Lotta Balls Routes I want to do, supposed to be real good. Crimson ChrysalisGinger CracksSour MashWild TurkeysSunflowerDark shadowsLady Wilsons CleavageResolution arete (goes at 5.10 with one short aid section)Epinephrie Not at Red Rocks but worth visiting: Keyhole Canyon (granite area SE of Vegas, free camping, wicked 6 pitch climb up a dry watercourse, pitches from V0 bouldering steps to 30m 10b and 100+ boulder problems) I have never done a really good sport climb at Vegas. Most of the stuff at 10 and under is pretty damn generic and doesnt stick in ones mind. The Limestone at Waterworld and Trenchtown is supposedly good.

If you look at the climbers who are at the top of their game, most are self-taught. If you look at the climbers that never seem to progress past a certain level, most are guide-taught. Between those two extremes there is a wide range, but it is something to think about. Guiding courses teach dependence. "You have taken this course and now you are qualified to take the next course. Until you take this next course it is not safe for you to clinb xxx, yyy, zzz." If you take enough courses maybe you can sign up for courses on how to be a guide and then end up teaching !!

quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: I happen to climb with these for a weekend and the two unique and very annoying issues beside the one that mention already were: Because of the DMM ball the wire is on profile and always twisting the binner sideways when u try to clip it really annoying on overhangs and mix The huge nose profile (resembling a pear shape) is a pain to clip to pass through the eye of the ice screw, bolts and wired nuts and always collecting snow causing it for icing up I never had those problems but dont climbmuch overhanging ice/mixed. I found them it easy enough to clip, even with my gloves on into screws etc.Actually I have these on top end of my Screamers and Livewires on the bottom end. Am definitely thinking of going to Neutrinos for summer alpineespecially now since they dropped the price. i would hate to do a biner brake rappel with them though

I suspect a sprayer from this site posted this on R&i online: Pacific Northwest (posted by Billy Bob) ---date climbed: February 8, 2002 Me and my partner shot up the North face of Rainier with crappy weather. We hit the base of Thermogennises on the Willis Wall. With the weather being bad we decided not to rope up or use belays, when your as good as me you can do that. We climbed for 12 hours straight and reached the summit at 0323 hrs on Feb 9th. Lets see if any of you whimps out there can top that, I doubt it though.

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: I doubt it will be cold or rainy. I was there in January '95 and we climbed in T shirts. It rained for about an hour one evening and the event made the front page of the newspaper. The first time I went there it rained for 3 days straight and a flash flood had my friends trapped on top of a picnic table for 2 hours and washed away their tent. meanwhile it was warm and sunny in the PNW

The DMM wiregate keylock is really nice and acceptably light. I also like the Camp wire bentgates, huge gate opening and light.

Back to the top with this!! I predict at noon we will see 78 guests all vainly trying to reply to this post

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Dont forget your air voyagers Those are only for people who fall off.

And of course right next to the Golden Hinde is the famous "BeHinde" Im still trying to work out how to do highest 100 by province. You ca do them by range but Im not sure if bivy.com allows province searches. I know people like Erik Frebold have done the alphabetical thing climbing one peak of each letter of the alphabet from Fairley's guide. There is no mtn starting with X though so you have to climb an officially unnamed mountain for that one. Although only 26 peaks instead of 100 it is harder to complete as some of the letters like Q are pretty obscure and difficult summits to reach.

With all these matts at least we can try highballs with impunity. another highball, bartender!