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Everything posted by Dru
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quote: Originally posted by Country Jake: Bella Colla B.C., during the summer mounths and then down to Joshiwa tree nsl park during the winter... Or at least that is were I wish I migrated to every year ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Mi is nas ceatra an damhan-allaidh air am balla Damn you must like that Bella Coola rain... 300 days of rain a year.
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quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: choose a really obscure color! "what, you mean everybody here chose Wild Yeti Fur #67"?
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quote: Originally posted by JoeTool: Just a note; Pick forward and pick and pick backward are to different techniques, not 'styles',pick forward is the self-belay position and pick-rear is the self arrest position. some people teach this and some tell you to always use one or the other. Now Im confused, if I have the pick perpendicular to my body, should it be pointing left or right to be in self-belay position, or does it depend which way I fall
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I dont know what you are all talking about, isnt Beckey 25 or something? Mind you he has been 25 for the past 55 years...
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quote: Originally posted by max: Where is this in red rocks? I recognize the name, but can't remeber climbing it... uh, like, I'm confused! Isnt that in Icebox?
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quote: Originally posted by haireball: Peter - I haven't tried Carnival Crack, but finally got around to taking a close look at it a few weeks ago, and it begs for an attempt... Dont forget your sticky rubber helmet for the skull jam no hands rest!
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Allison, Ms. "I never check the spray page" caught on the Who's Online, surfing the spray page! OOOOOhhhhhh!
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Yup FRESHIEZ!!!!! We got a foot on the ground in Chilliwack. Totally plabalicious. Polar bears are probably roaming the streets as I speak. I even wore my plastic boots to walk to work today! Ha ha Vancouver got no Freshiez. we got all your freshiez.
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Is Existential Exit at Purina any good?Or what about the cracks at Marley crags? That looks like some odd rock. I cragged on schist once in New Zealand and it was bizarre. No friction even on the slighest negative slope, so you would be pinching tiny quartz knobs in the midde of huge flat slippery holds. Another route I did the same trip as Empire State was Cat Burglar at Castle. Does not seem to see almost any traffic compared to other routes on that crag but offers interesting moderate climbing for the leader looking for an uncrowded easier route. I believe it still has Beckey or Schoening ring blades in situ as well, mostly just the ring sticking out from a sandpile... [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]
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At Red Rocks once, I saw someone had placed a beer can in a crack, and tied it off with a sling. it was empty so I did not think it worthwhile booty. I guess it is really a type of tube chock and not a piton, though.
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Empire State is a 5.7 or 5.8 sandstone Chimney on the backside of Grand Central to the right of the black-streaked Henry Barber route (Vertigo?). I did it about 11 years ago as a beginning climber following some Coast Range hardman up it and it was my 1st chimney climb ever. Luckily its hard to fall out of them. i recall some grunting and learning how to remove Big Bros whikle I climbed although I think you can adequately protect it with #3 camaots and smaller. Doesnt seem to get done much but I have fond memories of it anyways. would like to lead it one day when feeling in need of a good sandy masochism fest.
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ooooh yeah 56 online right now, we only need 12 to get a new record. Maybe Ray can bust 12 avatars all online at once and we can do it!
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quote: Originally posted by chucK: Probably too easy for Peter, but Bob's 5th (? the one rated 5.9) crack on the BOB wall is sweet (but short). Check that one out after doing Cocaine Crack. whats with the 10a rating on Bobs 2nd? that thing is a 50lb. bag of sand.
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quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: i have 6 of them. they've never been used and i never will since they're too heavy to carry into the mtns and i'm too wussy to aid climb. i bought them in a package deal with other stuff. all #6, painted black, say "italy" and "lost arrow" on them. i'd sell them all for $30 shipped or trade them for a couple Ti pins or a screw (no, not that kind) or some tele bindings. I dunno, they are only a little bit heavier than a Kb or Bugaboo, and they fit the next wider size of cracks than Kbs do. What pins do you usually take into the mts? I take 2-3 Kb long and short, 2 La (one long one short), and 2 small angles.
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BD were the 1st ones to come up with the wiregate, though.
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quote: Originally posted by fishstick: Dru, Dumb question: what is the divide between the Lillooet and Pacific ranges? GB Harrison Lake and Lillooet River, then Lillooet- Bridge Glacier divide. Past there I think the Lillooet Ranges vanish and turn into the Douglas Ranges or something. I should also throw out a shout-out for the Clear Range and Marble Range. These are the limestone hills and mountains south and north, respectively, of Marble Canyon. They are not part of the Coast Mts or Cascades, but are really the highest portion of the Interior Plateau. A great place for scrambling, rambling and general exploring. Not much technical alpine type stuff but a great place for dry-country ridge hiking to peaks like Cairn and Fountain.
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First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro. Spiderman too. Cinnamon Slab 5.6 crack, to Cinnamon Toast (5.7 that moves left up the bolted slab arete above Karate Wall - wicked exposure) Mines of Moria in the basalt. Take a headlamp for this completely enclosed, 5.7 chimney. The easy routes in the Marsupials. No crowds. check out Round River (? i think) on Koala.
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The Coast Mountains. The Southern Alps are a close second, then the Cascades are third. Breaking down the Coast Mts I would have to say I find the Lillooet Ranges more interesting than the Pacific Ranges.
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Roof Crack at Mtneers dome Royal FlushDebs Crack. I love Viktor's description: "Much ballyhooed overhanging crack of infamy. watch for gory wads of tape at base." Empire State at Peshastin. Peter: is the one out of the cave you mention, Condo Corner?
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A friend of mine did one of those races - across New Zealand. She slept 5 hours in 6 days and lost 20 lbs. Then slept for 35 hrs straight and went on a 4 day Nutella eating binge.
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This is a pretty funny thread when you realize that there are only about 3 people posting to it using 25 avatars each
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why is that dude kneeling down?
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quote: Originally posted by v: Hoping for some improved weather and I'm heading to Smith this weekend. Looking for some recommendations on some 5.7 - 5.8 beginning lead routes trad or sport. Also, if anyone wants to join us let met know. Rodeo the offer is still out there. dont forget to download the smith rocks guidebook update from www.smithrock.com before you go.
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quote: Originally posted by Matt: Genghis (Chingis) Khan lived in a tent. and he was intentse!
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quote: Originally posted by jordop: Pretty sure its 10a, (10bs don't seem to have really nice places to put your feet like 10as do!)but nevertheless, yes its nice. Ohmygod, a Squamish 10a and someone from Washington said they thought it was 10b!!!!! what is the world coming to?? I seen a waiting line for it many times. If you like 12bs the arete next to it (Gaia) is nice too (or so said Andy Cairns when I belayed him on it). take a little toothbrush to clean the odd moss spot off holds.