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Everything posted by Dru
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yup no worry ray's got the gear to get up the crack of uranus. actually "crack of infinity" is a good 10b/c up near "exploring uranus" on the "backside of the chief".
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quote: Originally posted by todd: what do you call a deer with no eyes?-no ideer.what do you call a deer with no eyes and no legs?-still no ideer.what do you call a deer with no eyes, no legs, and no dick?-still no fucking ideer what do you call a newfie with a wooden leg? shit on a stick what d'you call a newfie with 2 wooden legs then? a waste of wood.
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Charlie Fowler - Patagonia Climbs - Second Ascent
Dru replied to Rodchester's topic in Climber's Board
quote: Originally posted by W: I am kidding you, Ropegun. Go look up "sarcasm" in the dictionary. Worse yet, if you want to rehash a forgettable thread, go look up the Boskoff/TNF slide show thread to get the source of my joke. Fowler is someone for whom I have great respect, thank you. Anyone who can onsite solo the DNB (1977) is beyond worthy. Further, his humility is another reason to like him. Did you know that "gullible" is misspelled in the dictionary? -
Hmm. now for some alpine cracks the crux pitch on the north ridge of mt clarke is pretty damn good especially with a big heavy pack on! except maybe it is 10a. whatever. the first pitch of the digestive system on mt. webb was a good 10b too. shame about pitches 4-6.
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quote: Originally posted by todd: does anyone know if there is a difference between "glucosamine sulfate" and the combination "glucosamine chondroitin"? Didnt you just answer your own question?
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IMHO, "'Buse the weed". LOL. AFAIK. Or it could be Bong Tokes Work.... [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]
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What did DJ Disk look like, I always thought that that was just one of Bill Laswell's aliases? wouldnt it be cool if Herby Hancock had done the Love Bug soundtrack? And so, who is gonna play Mushmouth when they do the live action remake (starring Ice Cube as Bill Cosby and Kevin Costner as Fat Albert?)
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Charlie Fowler - Patagonia Climbs - Second Ascent
Dru replied to Rodchester's topic in Climber's Board
So is Charlie a good buddy of yours too Rodchester? I gotta admit for a few years there I had Charlie Fowler and Charlie Porter confused in my mind. Now I have it straight. Porter is the one that's named after a beer! -
quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Surrealistic Pillar Direct @ Lover's Leap. Split Pillar is out because it's merely thuggish liebacking Pshaw, nice troll, everyone knows that you jam the Pillar after the first 10 feet!!!
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quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Sold for a "Friend of a Friend"! But i don't have a "FoaF"!I heard Leeper was coming out with a new nut tool that will be the coolest thing since the titanium spork, though.
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quote: Originally posted by chucK: Crux pitch on Squamish Buttress is pretty sweet and probably about 10b. Not the best 10b in the world but cooler than a lot of other stuff mentioned in this thread. I would say 10c? Maybe its "Washington 10b?" and what about Slap and Tickle at the Upper Malamute? I guess it is Brian Burdo style 10b cause the crack is 5.9 and there is a single face move of 10a/b at the end but it is still a damn good crack.
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On the backside of the Chief are two big cracks, Bop Til You Drop and Boogie Til You Puke. First one is 10b chim to fists and second one is 10c OW all the way. i was too scared/gear deficient to do either one but they sure look good. Anybody got some #3 BigBros?.this is going to be year of wide cracks, maybe. im finding carhartts are real good for kneebarring in.
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quote: Originally posted by trask: Barry Manilow Live - Smokin!!! I like the giant Hand of Doom reaching out to grab Barry.
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quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Any bids on the original vinyl Duck Stab EP? I need to make room for more Dereck Bailey discs! [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Have you got Santa Dog?
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quote: Originally posted by jordop: We should start a new thread arguing about the best 10b at Squampton! Never had a good time on split beav. Yeah hand jive is good (okay awesome!) and i forgot about Caboose which really rocks. Sunblessed is probably pretty good too, but I've always been too lazy to hike that far! Best 10b in the universe? Stone Groove at Reeds, or Sons of Yesterday/Serenity Crack (10a and 10d respectively) Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek?Illusion Dweller at JT? Those are pretty popular too.
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quote: Originally posted by jordop: Did laps on "A Little Testis", the 2nd best 10b crack in Squamish (at that grade its got pretty stiff competition with the pillar!). Too bad it's suffered noticable polish from people trying to smear when they should be jammin damnit! And its only been in existance for about five years. Do it now before it turns into a Flyin Circus yosem style glass crack! 1) It was polished to begin with. 2) Second best... no way. Ever hear of Apron Strings? Arrowroute? Hand Jive? Caboose? Split Beaver? You forget about those or something??? A Little Testis is a 1-move wonder with an easy start, short crux, and 5 meters of laybacking high up. I mean its good and all, but not real good. [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]
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quote: Originally posted by Brian-boulder: Have you ever ripped out a cam in sandstone? After doing so, all you see is four steaks on the sides of the crack! The 6Cam is a specialty piece but does not look, or function as freakishly as one might think. It is about the width of a normal 4 camming unit and if you look at the pictures of our cams, it is basically a 4Cam with a 2Cam sandwiched in the middle. With the wieght advantages of our cams, this peice is still light and is great in softer stone situations. In really hard stone, even a cam with minimal surface area will usually not blow out the rock, but there are many cases where the more surface area, the better. (think metolious fat cams) But if you have that much surface area, it is best to break it up into as many planes or lobes as possible to account for flares in the crack or irregular surfaces. You may not believe it, but this winter you will see these cams on many climbing shop shelves. The only cam I ripped out was a Tri Cam and it left one big groove and 2 ski tracks on the other side. I can't figure out the trigger wiring for the 6 cam. does it have 2 sets of wires on one side of the shaft and one set on the other? why not just make a 4 cam with wider lobes like the metolius fat cams did? wouldnt that be lighter than going with 6 cams?
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Ice rock rock rock, drinkbrewpub, sleep, coffee, hike hike, rock rock rock.
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quote: Originally posted by chucK: Hey! I pulled out a Resident's shirt and wore it to the gym last night. Crazy! In University and High School I wore my "Eskimo" era residents shirt so much that it is basically one big hole now with a couple'a black fabric swatches attached. But then I got a new one last year when their 30th anniversary tour hit Vancouver.
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what is the idea behind the 6-lobed head mentioned in climbing mag, aside from making something weird?
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Lets have it in Chilliwack this week you guys can all sleep on my floor afterwards and the ladies can use my bed
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Went up do do Entropy on Saturday. Looked funky white and sun baked frmthe highway with a few visible holes so we decided not to hike in. went to Moaning Tree at Cal Chek instead. Most of it had fallen down but "Get Off The Couch" (WI3) was still in and leadable albeit with sections of hollow, honeycomb and funk ice. The WI4s on this wall were dripping verglas plate that came off when you swung - not even good for TRs. Went to the Bluffs instead for afternoon. Sunny rock. Sunday, investigated a potential mixed chimney ineat Cheakamus. Top pitch frozen but bottom pitch not frozen enough and moss was of limited adherence. Another week of cold might set it up, provided it stays cloudy?? Anyways in the same area, the Spray Creek Falls of the Squamish-Whistler corridor (the one up by the Tantalus viewpoint) was flowing, and Shannon Falls was icing up nicely on Sunday, but still had lotsa flowing water and open sections. Smoke Bluff ice was thin, forming overnight then collapsing in afternoon sunshine. Ice up behind the Chief was covered in freshies but might be good in another few days of cold weather. Line Drive was a skinny runnel of inches thick ice. Nintendo 64 was not nearly in.
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quote: Originally posted by pope: Wow! Herbie Hancock rocks! Great show, diverse audience, and a level of musicianship worth staying up half the night to hear. You recycling today Pope? Lemme guess you are embarked on the best of pope on cc.com while you are on in-cube sabbatical?
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whatever, when its spring you can't go ice climbing and rock climbing on the same day, cause the ice all melted back up the mountain.
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"i really dig trad climbing""closest real climbing is Fossil Rock"