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Everything posted by Dru
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have you ever noticed that no one refers to moderate sport climbs by name, only by grade?
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quote: Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ: i CAN'T IMAGINE THIS BEING AN OLYMPIC SPORT BUT IT WOULD BE COOL TO WATCH. sAY IF I DO THE RACE DO YOU THINK IT WOULD BE WISE TO LEARN HOW TO TAKE THE SKINS OFF AND ON WITHOUT TAKING YOUR BOOTS OUT OF THE BINDING? i CAN TAKE THE SKINS OUT BUT CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT IT BACK ON. aNY SUGGESTIONS? Use a partner/buddy system and each of you stands on one leg at a time and attaches or detaches a skin from the other one's ski held out on their outstreched leg.
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one point nobody mentioned is that the girth hitch is much more of a fixed connection than is a biner, and hence increases leverage of sling on pro (chance of walking cams or pulling nuts out) but it wont matter cause if you fall on one of those babies it will cut the sling and you will die!!!
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quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Maybe some Headhunters/Thrust era straight FUNKIN SHIT UP? Or perhaps some Mwandishi era Fat Albert funk? I mean you did know that Herbie (not Herby) did the music for the Fat Albert right? Hey what the hell is the name of the Fat Albert character with the toque pulled way down over his face with the eye holes??
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quote: Originally posted by NoBolt: For me it is a toss up between Cresent Crack at Lower malamute, and Bale Kramer route at Careno crag. Thin Fingers is great but was hard for me. In fact I thought it was more like 11a. you thinking Caboose? or Hand Jive?, Crescent Crack is 10d. BK route crack i thought would have been good if not for all the wasps in it?
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quote: Originally posted by pope: Yes, Dru: how's that thread for a "golden moldy oldy"? I went to Herby's show and was inspired to write, and then I did a search under "music" which pulled up this gem. BTW, don't say Barry Manilow and Herby Hancock in the same sentence. So, did he do any "Rockit" era scratching, or "Dis is da Drum" era mini-Moog noodling and wack rhyming, or was it just boring piano pieces?
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quote: Originally posted by specialed: Oh silly Dru. I'm above raitings, I climb for myself not for my sponsors or my throngs of adoring fans. i belayed a friend 2 yrs ago in the fall who fell off the last move thru the roof about a dozen times on TR and gave up. after his performance I did not bother trying.
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quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: The place I've done it, which I guess you could duplicate up around Mt. Hood someplace, is on the snow walls at the side of the road up by Alpental. The walls were about 8 feet high at the time, and pretty hard, and looked enough like a crevasse edge (to us) with the benefit of being an easy drive ad no real danger. In the fall when the snow has baked off there are great crevasses on lower Coleman gl. on Baker, and Warren Glacier on Garibaldi, that offer steep ice walls and one can walk into the end of. Not only good for rescuing a "victim" but you can also set a TR and get some vertical ice mileage preparatory for the waterfall season without the collapse dangers of the seracs. I think there is some good stuff on Overlord Glacier up at Whistler too. Baker is simplest access of the 3.
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quote: Originally posted by jordop: I used to doze off in lectures and dream about doin the FA of the Chan Can! while you was dreamin Vance Culbert was doin. i think him and Dave Campbell got the FFA a few days before the official opening.
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quote: Originally posted by specialed: How bout most underrated crack: Pumpline on Careno at L-worth. Not only underrated, but one of the best single pitches anywhere. Is that the "11b" one?
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I think thats Dwayners ad cause he in Norway right now. denmark next then skoal with akavit in Stockholm then off to Amsterdam for the ladies.
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quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Or how 'bout this one Dru, I'm sure you'd appreciate this. Two words, two biners...Garda hitch i tried that thing once but it didnt work and i dropped my partner to his death when it failed. guess i should have practiced it more.
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quote: Originally posted by CraigA: So I was just wondering...what would RMI guides do if you showed up for a guided climb with nothing more than shorts and a tee-shirt? Would they let you climb after you wrapped yourself up and dried their laundry? Just wondering I will never know cause I will never be guided.
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quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: I have a feeling this is headed for spray... (Looks like someone else already did.) Guess I should have started it in the Newbies forum then, or Central/Eastern washington....
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I once saw Smoky puff the magic dragon.
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What about kangofrogzilla temple?
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quote: Originally posted by none: Dru, What's the absolute simplest way to mind the prussick knot at the master point of the rescue, with the least effort and a minimum of gear? Just wonderin', dude. I guess you are asking a trick question cause the answer is, DONT FALL IN! Also it is spelled Prussik after Dr. Karl Prussik who was RURP's great granddad. I always use those plastic stick-em-on-the-oval Petzl jobs anyways. No stickin prussiks cause they just dont fit. What the hell, in a pinch you can even ditch the pulley and just use a biner. how do you think they did it before they invented pulleys anyways? [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]
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Charlie Fowler - Patagonia Climbs - Second Ascent
Dru replied to Rodchester's topic in Climber's Board
quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Yup, Porter also put up New Dawn solo in '72. No doubt Fowler is a badass too, wasn't he on the FA of Infinite Spur with Kennedy back in '77? That was George Lowe!!!!!! -
quote: Originally posted by max: Boy, you should hear what I have to say after a double tall blonde half-soy skim latte! I wouldnt mind a double tall blonde myself, as long as they know how to belay and don't talk too much
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Them's strong words from a yuppy scum fuck bolt clipper!!!!!!!!!
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he moved to india! http://straitstimes.asia1.com.sg/cybernews/story/0,1870,108731,00.html?
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Why not just head out with some buds to lower Coleman (eg.) , sometime when there are crevasses, (like not right now cause they are all buried under the )and spend a day or two lowering victims into crevasses and then rescuing them? Pros: - you dont pay as much- you and your friends not you and some strangers- you can drink beer- better hands-on to lecturing component Cons: no course to look good on your resume.
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quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: yep it's snowing- i guess everyone is getting the wet stuff! we only have about an inch but it's been snowing off and on since saturday. when i was at bishop the weather was sketchy also.
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[ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]