Dru

you better get antibottes if you got 2fs. that,or know how to self arrest instantly. or be an accomplished stilt walker.

basically there is nothing much in the cascades thats gonna take you more than 24 hrs to single push unless you are trying for fury from the road, then you are gonna suffer no matter what. i have done 5 or so trips involving being on the go for mostly 24 hrs. redoubt was 21 hrs straight, silvertip was 16 one time and 24 another time. plinth was 24 hrs round trip from car. grainger was 22 hrs but that was just cause we were SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW. clarke was 18 or 19 hrs. on most of these trip you can always take a short break, like an hour or two, napping, while melting water or waiting for snow to harden up. they wake you up just enough to be more alert, even if you dont sleep but just doze. knowing you are gonna be doing a push, is definitely more mental benefitthan not, if you expect to take 8 hrs and take 21 it seems really long and tiring, if youexpect 24 and go 21, its not that bad. just a matter of pacing yourself. as for food and water, i find about 3 L of water or weak sport drink, some landjaegers, and a big bag of gummi bears, works just as well for me over 24 hrs. as does expensive energy bars and sporty goo, and its way cheaper. and finally plan on doing the hardest climbing while fresh, taking a short nap break, then doing the descent. or approach, nap break, then climb. even the twight crew took 1 hr breaks on slovak route aka czech direct, while melting water. also one person can sleep at the belay if a party of 3.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Ok Indulge me. Those concerned with "fairness" please help me to understand you rposition what does fair mean. I didn't seem to read the definition for unacceptable. But surely such a critical keystone of yoru argument must have an unequivocal defintion. You mean like the clear distinction between art and trash or erotica and pornography?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Don't we all? Rob, are you saying you got a thing for Keiths wife or what?

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: wait till he falls asleep then read the files he keeps in those Fed Ex folders in the back of the Subaru. Hey Dru if you check the address on that folder it's addressed to me! Right before Fred knows he is passing he is gonnna quickly Fed ex them to me I hope that event is a long, long time coming.

Ya know, most big waterfalls never freeze up here on da wet Coast. Shannon Falls is marginal...drury maybe sometimes...Mousetrap is swiss cheese..take scuba gear for Crucible..what about those Twin falls in soqualmie or whatever, i doubt it. So will, more like it s a book of thwarted ambitions than anything.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Uh no Fred already climbed it. Trying to get info out of him on routes can be an entertaining dead end sometimes. Yeah... if he has already done it he isnt interested in discussing it, and if he hasn't done it he tells you about the bad rock and doesnt think its any good until 5 minutes before you are supposed to leave for it with him, then suddenly its a paradise of splitter cracks and diamond hard stone. wait till he falls asleep then read the files he keeps in those Fed Ex folders in the back of the Subaru.

Izzat Metasequoia thing Beckey plant or what? Boschniakia hookerei. Sounds like something for drill-on-lead climbers

quote: Originally posted by fern: Bladerunner, overhanging A2 nailing, shorter with less objective danger than Pan Wall, same approach (Kashmir Wall), stays dry in wet weather. but its only 2 pitches right?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Or you could go to Powell River and do a first ascent...

quote: Originally posted by erik: on the worker who make are climbing crap.....most of my stuff is bd...most of that is made in slc.....most of my soft goods are arcteryx....made in n van b.c. pretty good working conmditions there....all my capiliene is made in the use...though i do have some articles made eles where i am sure that their payment for services rendered what their local economy can handle.....yvon is a nice guy!!!! and neri....the prison is minimum security....so i doubt these people/prisners are a real threat most society. actually arcteryx moved to burnaby from N van like 3 years ago... those sewers and stitchers made like 3x what i did when i was a lowly shipper there too. so i say equal rights for opprressed shippers, oh wait, didnt i ship myself a dozen pro deal specials maybe that was my equal rights?

Thats a good response Michael. i feel less guilty owning omega gear now but is it true that the issue of prison made gear was why MEC stopped carrying your biners or was it because they found a Euro brand they could sell for cheaper?

quote: Originally posted by erik: i prefer to climb with smaller partners so incase i do run out of gear or whatever i can have them zipped up to me, at that point i try to equalize their neck and other male compoents with one spectra sling, a regular webing sling and 13 seperate biners all made from seperate manufactors.......slave labor, prison labor and labor of love are all factors in my choice of biners...... this sytems works well as it teaches me the pateience i need whilst choosing parterns for those harder more runout routes.....i will be the fat one on the sharp end...... and i came up with that with 80 community college credits, a asa autobody and refinnish tech course.....and all 4 harry potter books..... i found that once, climbing with a partner with prosthetic limbs, you could leave limbs detached behind you as pro points. those artificial hands can be used in many spots - fist jam or finger jam in cracks or crimpin on a small edge. im surprised wild country, BD and split'her gear do not make lines of prosthetic hands for pro....

Oooh, its Swift Creek Falls not Spray Creek Falls. SPRAY RUINED MY BRAIN!

"Oh, dude, by stick clipping you deprive yourself of the quality boulder problem to reach the first clip. you can't call it a boulder ascent if you have a rope on!"

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Jim's climbed some bad ass stuff, and I'm sure he's a nice guy, but his presentations suck. Unless you like looking at all the photos from the trip including the stop at Costco before the trip. Check it out, but remember you've been warned. Maybe Bridwell got a Costco sponsorship? And that is sneaky product placement?

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: To hold nuts in opposition.To shorten a runner.I am sure there are other uses, but these come to mind quickly. I knew Freeclimb was an academician. Hopefully he will post his climbing schedule with the mountaineers on their website so that we can avoid being involved in the rescue/recovery/clusterfuck. You gotta point there Mitch, but allison is never gonna have to do that stuff sportclimbing...im surprised she has ever even had to girth hitch... what happened to the world of preplaced draws and consumer length customized clipping stances??

quote: Originally posted by JoeTool: Ok, let me get this straight; It would be ok to girth hitch spectra webbing to a prisoners unit while he's holding on to a tree as long as he's working for OP, and throw him on to freeclimp9? only if he is tied off to Muir Hut too.

quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: Its only illegal if you get caught. And then you get to spend a year making Omega Pacific carabiners

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Smith is OK if you like climbing on dried peanut butter and can endure the Sporto scene. "Its NOT a "cheater stick". It's a STICK CLIP!"

quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: Its west face. I swear its west face. Don't make me bust out the guidebook. NW face?

you mean the one on monkey space or what? i dont got no pix of that one. cant free it yet. heard bolts were sketchy as of last fall too, some friends retreated. Personally i think you could sleep under the Nose boulder, flat and dry. Then get the first Base jump at sunrise. woo hoo!

yup, never slept but spent some time there. there are big bolts to anchor to as well. its kinda windy though. and the floor slopes down about 10 degrees. see in the top of the picture?

quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2002: Dear Allison - you must be still new to the park, I agree that Pheonix is a quality climb, however there are plenty of other boss 5.10a routes. -Irreverence 5.10a * * * -Heathens Highway 5.10a * * *-Cosmos 5.10a * * * Happy climbing. How come all the good 10c routes are trad routes?

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: How often do you do seals?Are they easier to find in Canada?Do you ever have trouble with that saltwater rash? Yeah we like to club the little fuckers out on the ice floes and then sell their penises to the Japanese.Its the mainstay of the Newfie economy now all the cod are extinct.