Dru

but, the thread was frozen at 500 posts for months, did you calculate that?

Its easy for 2 non-locking biners clipped together, to torque on one another so that one opens the gate of the other one, if they twist at all. try it yourself at home!

quote: Originally posted by Nelly: FreeClimb9 - Check out this site! A group of MIT PhD's have, indeed, performed a lot of drop testing. In fact, you can send inquireys via e-mail and they will test a system for you, time and money permitting. http://www.marlboro.edu/~mahoney/DropTest/DropProposal.html I still advise against using the girth hitch on a nut or sling unless it was my only option. Things they could droptest. A watermelon. Dick Cheney Dick cilley A hippopotamus. Blotter

I jump off 50m cliffs all the time

quote: Originally posted by allison: allison read spray!!

quote: Originally posted by greenfork: By the way, it's sleep deprivation, not depravation. Think deprived, not depraved. Sleep depravation is something else altogether! Sleep depravation causes nocturnal emissions

quote: Originally posted by trask: doe's a hobby horse have a hickory dick? No, but I 'd like another hickory daquiri, doc.

quote: Originally posted by Matt: Don't you mean Mr. Petit Dru/Ms. Petite Dru the choice is yours Y'all just wish you could spray as much as me. JEALOUS!!!!!!!

Ethnography/documentary huh. "gentle giants of the mist: the cascade climbers, last surviving white trash tribe of the PNW"

quote: Originally posted by chucK: I am wondering what is the flaw in the argument that compares slings through a wire with the slings through a metolius TCU? You guys can't possibly be thinking that that extra (1mm thickness) colored tape is gonna make all the difference do you? Tape, no, but hard plastic, yup. 1mm thick on each side, on a 4mm wire, can make it 6mm diameter, or a 50% increase. But like I said, do the drop test experiments yourself, its a good way to waste a rainy day and check out the breaking strength of some of your gear.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Dru, Those are good. Yummy! All the alcohol rushes to the brain quickly! i like bein'drunk with caffiene rush at the same time. wakey wakey sleepy sleepy all at once then sum chronic to mellow it all out. actually that sounds a lot like work

difference between a unpadded wire and padding and between sewn loop and girth hitch? or are you mad cause we all dont agree with you? if you and your partners are OK with it then go for it and dont make SAR come out to scrape up your splat when you splat. but i would not climb with someone who took less biners and then girth hitched slings straight thru a wire nut clip in point. although i would climb with a pot head like smoky mcpot, or with a guy who used a spectra cordelette...if they were cool. but not with no "legal speed" freek like you cause i can see you pitchin off when you get the shakes.

I saw a recipie for an espresso martini last night. gonna try that one on friday

I have no avatars

Stupid record book just downgraded itself to 59 online!!!! Whatever happened to 67??

quote: Originally posted by Teogo: It's interesting to note that regulations in some countries, Canada for instance, make it illegal to import and sell OP gear---the use of prison labour for the manufacture of any goods render the sale of those goods illegal. (Thus the return of product at MEC a number of years ago.) While the hourly wage that OP is paying seems reasonable the Canadian law is intended to deal with countries like China where prison labour is routinely used for truly dangerous, horrible work.(I.E. wading around in a vat of chemicals at a match making company with no protective clothing, or working in a coal mine with very minimal safety precautions.) Spaulding, Hertz, Howard Johnson and a lot of other compaies use prison labour, (check out Micheal Moore's documentary The Big One). While Washington state may enforce wage parity my understanding is that many states do not----the one dollar an hour scenerio is common. The bottom line for me: if a company wants to use prison labour fine, but pay the going rate. Child support, contributions to victim and court funds can certainly be detucted, but pay the going rate. Only the biners, and its more MEC ethics than Canada nowadays, cause you can buy Omega biners at most of the other gear stores up here. Even MEC carries the screws and whatnot I think.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: verticalturtle: "My only thought on them is that depending on how you are attaching them to a pack the stiff zetyl for the toe section may interfere with say a sleve style crampon pocket." Actually it is not a problem. The zytel stuff attaches to crampons with a pin/rivet (don't know what you would actually call it) that lets you rotate the zytel downward closer to the crampon decreasing the profile so it cab slide into such a pocket. Dru is correct, the 2Fs will let you practice being stiltwalker. Then again, if the snaow is that soft, take em off. ya its when you are down climbing, facing out, 3 inches of wet freshiez cement over 25 degree ice that its a real bitch, need crampons on but crampons keep ball'n up. my solution was to swith to charlet grade 8's which have been great all around, WI, mixed, snow, choss climbers. but you maybe want horizontal frontpoints for some weird reason. i never found it made much difference horizontal or vertical points, but twight sez it does so it must

dont forget your radar detector for 395. you can seriously eliminate 3 hrs of driving time each way with one of those turned on. thats 6 more climbing hours on your trip!

yeah good point. hey cassius, i mean mohammered, wha kinda routes are you planning on pushing - snow and ice/mixed or mtneering traverses or hard rock free or aid??

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Jake, I got no beef with people wanting to climb there. Oh yes let me tell you about me getting permits and being told where to camp and actually listening. Just offering my insight. No likey quacks so I stay away.... You will not likely wait in line for cracks at Smith just like Cappellini said.. But when you can go to Tieton or Frenchmans and climb why go to Smith is my thoughts. Dru is always sitting on his ice axe spraying about the climbs he did Did more than me though! 20 days and countin this season weekend could be good at lillooet but im gonna go visit grandma in the hospital instead

quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: I expect Dru to jump all over this one.... What I want to know is if anyone has any info on the Bush River road access to the Mt. Bryce / Mt Coulmbia area? Anyone been there last year or even the last couple of years. If not does BC have a DOT web site with phone numbers that would lead me to a real person to answer this question. vt Know some peole that have been in there recently-ish. you can drive. for real info call the Ministry of Forests office in Golden (?). Check out the www.gov.bc.ca homepage, find MoF (probably for.gov.bc.ca) , find appropriate forest district, that should give you a district office number you can call.

quote: Originally posted by philfort: This isn't a very difficult 'climb', but the short ice face on Observation Rock is a nice fall outing that I would repeat. A beautiful pristine early morning hike into Spray Park, and then you get to swing your tools a bit, and return in the afternoon among the throngs of tourists. Ahhh yes beautiful hike into SPRAY

where is Lambone. i aint seen him online for weeks. could he secretly be slaphappy??????

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: Canada is losing one if its only things it can brag about having other than hot chicks in Vancouver and Arcteryx: Magnetic North Leaving Canada Whatever, the pole wanders around like a drunken polar bear, but it never leaves, it keeps comin back for more, just like trask/Sparky/whoever.

quote: Originally posted by Jerome: Ignore the posers who've nothing nice to say about Smith! Jerome jerome likes to lean on his cheater stick while wearing spandex and talking to his stock broker on a cell phone about Britney Spears