goatboy

What's the deal with the road conditions/washout here?

Erin, did you do this as a long day trip? What are the road conditions like getting in?

I've hiked it and it's easy but definitely long compared to the boat. I've never regretted just taking the boat.

Outstanding (and enthusiastic/optimistic) given the weather forecast! Way to make a go of it. Endurance pays off.

Haven't been up there yet this year. I do know that descending the East Ledges on Forbidden when it's snowy/wet is a bleak affair. If you go up Forbidden, I'd consider going back down the W Ridge and Couloir.

Nice touch, integrating Google Earth in the TR. Not to mention, a creative approach to a popular objective. Thanks!

Hey Nitrox, I wonder if you'd consider getting rid of your auto-signature? It's annoying and distracting, especially when you post three times on the same page.

Whether you think it was a gear failure or a human error, either way, there is value in taking note of how deceptive this gear failure can be. It is a classic case of gear APPEARING to be safer than it is (whether from misuse or failure). It reminds me of the way that a daisy chain can fail if not properly clipped (or "short-clipped" with a single carabiner). This is another case of gear APPEARING to be safe, but in fact, being ready to fail (due to unintentional misuse). [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be17lI-rVyU&feature=player_embedded

I climbed this thing years ago and encountered very similar conditions, and found it to be harder than it appeared to be from the road. I also remember being challenged by the creek crossing. When I got to the top of the couloir, on the exposed ridge crest, we bailed back down the couloir since we did not have a rope. It was steeper in places than I expected, but a lovely and eye-catching objective. Note that it gets immediate sun and can turn sloppy rather quickly. Nice job!

Prussik Peak, the flavor of the week!

Regarding the bugs: They can be absolutely desperate at WA PASS, but usually not until July. Given how cold it has been and how much snow there is at WA Pass currently, I expect that it won't be too bleak until July. Let me know if I'm off with that prediction.

In June, there will be ample water in the basin below the spires, as well as snow to melt at Burgundy Col...

Washington Pass might be another good plan (Liberty Bell, Early Winter Spires, Wine Spires, etc).

Ivan has a good point, and you can crag in Leavenworth (Snow Creek Wall, maybe?) as part of the trip.

I wouldn't even dream of bringing it for about 1-2 moves that are really secure and straightforward.

If you do this route, please report on conditions and post a pic!

Reid, believe me when I say that donating $300 and asking for a t-shirt in return does NOT come across as selfish!

Outstanding trip report, comrade!

Looking pretty damn snowy right now!

I noticed that the link in the Seattle times article to the NWMJ is a broken link. Too bad, not sure whom to contact to have them fix it?

True Fact!

Pretty sure it's open now!

So many "main routes" up there on different aspects. I have not been up there this year, but the North Faces of all those formations tend to hold moisture or even verglas, while the south-facing aspects tend to be dry slabs that hold snowpatches. I bet the Beckey Route is climbable, while the neighboring N Face of Concord is still wet and unpleasant. I bet the South Arete of SEWS is intermittent rock and snow, whereas the SW Couloir is filled-in and pleasant after a cold night. The gullies should be completely snow-filled, and the snowpack is often well-consolidated with appreciable cornices this time of year. That's my arm-chair guess...

Serpentine is worth doing if you're looking for a relatively easy route with a few good pitches, and covering lots of terrain. Backbone is much more sustained at a technical climbing (versus scrambling) level and is thus more committing, plus has several honest 5.8/5.9 pitches (as opposed to the hardest pitch(es) on Serpenting being a few moves of 5.7. Having said that, BB is a good route, Serpentine is pretty mediocre other than offering an interesting route up a huge, complex massif.

Thanks for asking - I have bottled it and am waiting a little while before cracking the first one. Will report here when I know if its worth a damn or not. The color is .... kind of orange and cloudy. But it smells hoppy, so that's a good sign.