goatboy

So sad, what a loss. Best wishes and condolences to all who knew him, climbed with him, or learned from him through the years.

How many total days?

Same here, photos are such a pain. I am using Firefox on a Mac but it was bad before that too. Not worth the time and frustration for me.

Yes, that 5th picture is the windy, muddy campsite at Camp Curtis (the ridge between the Inter and the Emmons).

What is the approximate RT mileage/elevation gain via this route?

Thanks, Wayne!

Wondering how the (so-called) East Ledges on Forbidden are looking? Any recent photos showing if they're wet or dry? Thanks

Donn, Fabulous report and photos. Very different-looking in July than September (obviously). I love my beta-bug!

That's a good link up. Interesting to start way down low by the road, climb two spires, and finish on top of NEWS. I think having a big piece for those undercling flakes on NEWS is a great idea. Any pics of E Face Lexington?

Plastics suck to hike in once the trails melt out. You can carry them in on your pack while wearing trail shoes/boots... I just climbed Rainier in Scarpa Charmoz boots, and they were great. You need to treat them to make them more water resistant, but they're great for July/August.

Nice work, Kurt! Great pics. Man, the couloir itself looks splendid. The rimed rock? Not so sure.

I've never climbed the chockstone route on NEWS - thought I've descended it 3-4 times. How is it? I might also suggest the obvious alpine rock routes Orbit and Outer Space.

GB, What I heard on the MRNP SAR Hotline was that the other two ascended to the summit ridge searching for their lost partner. That is, the crater rim, and not the actual summit. That's how I read that. Thanks for the clarification, Sobo - what about the idea to descend a different route altogether? Gary has valid points and I'm seeking to understand, not to cast blame. It is hard for me to imagine losing someone, climbing up to the summit (or crater rim) and then descending another route altogether. Searchers did find a snowcave on the route the group had ascended, which may or may not have been the lost climber's... Hopefully, the other members of the party will clarify the circumstances and alleviate the mysteries behind this strange incident.

The entire situation is unusual and warrants more information and disclosure. It was reported (by a ranger at MRNP) that after finding their partner missing, the two other members of the party conducted a brief search before continuing to the summit and descending a different route altogether. Like many, I am curious about what decisions were made, and why this happened? I am not trying to incite controversy, but rather, to clarify the facts of the incident and to promote learning from it. Condolences to all involved.

Sounds good, let's meet up for a beer and share some tales sometime.

Rather than be blatantly dishonest and take advantage of a store's generous return policy, we could be ethical about it and pay Cascade Designs $10-15 dollars to repair the problem. If it's irreparable, they often will give you a new pad for free... a much better way to interact with a company's warranty/return system than scamming REI. As climbers, we can perpetuate each other's dirtbag ways, or perhaps we can perpetuate better practices.

Hey Eric - no problem - Chason owes me a beer! How did it go for you guys? Weather give you a chance? Steve (the Goatboy)

What happened on the WR epic?

I wonder if his partners read this board and are willing to post their version of the story?

Outstanding!

Trip: Rainier - Emmons Glacier, leisurely! Date: 7/3/2010 Trip Report: Climbed the Emmons route as a party of four in a narrow window of good weather between storm systems. Took a LEISURELY four days and enjoyed the acclimatization it afforded. Day One: Hiked in through mist, rain, and light snow. Great bootpack leading all the way up to Camp Schurman. Route goes up the center of the Inter-Glacier to the muddy and miserable Camp Curtis, then drops down onto the Emmons for a quick jaunt up to Schurman. The grind up to Schurman is 5000 vertical feet and feels further with 4 days of food and fuel! Day Two: Took a rest day up high, eating and drinking and getting to bed early. Tried to convince my body to create more red blood cells. Day Three: Woke at midnight in high winds, with frozen camelbaks, fingers, and toes. Made coffee and breakfast, visited the bathroom, and got everyone tied into the rope by headlamp, finally started shuffling up the hill by 2 AM. Saw one party about 1000 feet above us on the route. The route is in outstanding condition right now. Very straight and direct shot all the way to the bergschrund around 13000 feet or so. The party who started ahead of us turned back due to a party member feeling the altitude. We pressed on and encountered a few other parties along the way who caught up to us. The fierce winds finally abated as we arrived on top, and we enjoyed about 45 minutes or so of the lovely views up top (we could see from Mt Baker all the way to Mt Jefferson). Arrived back in camp by 3 PM. The winds picked up again that night and clouds rolled in obscuring the upper mountain. Day Four: Kind of a grim weather day, with big gusts of wind, lenticulars, and bleak gray skies to the west. Nice day to hike out. Hope the weather improved for all the folks we encountered hiking in. Summary: Great climb and very straightforward route right now. The schrund crossing will get more challenging as it continues to melt out, but is manageable right now. Felt lucky to get a window of decent weather on schedule with our plan. Lots of parties turned back the previous two days due to weather. Pictures: Having trouble uploading them right now from my Mac, for some reason. Will do so later if I can get it to work. Gear Notes: Took 4 pickets, pulleys, prussiks. No need for ice screws or snowshoes or anything like that. Took 8 fuel cannisters and hiked out with 2 full ones (which we gave to another incoming party who hadn't brought as much as they had hoped). Approach Notes: Trail to Glacier Basin is washed out for 1.5 miles but flagged and redirected pretty well. Otherwise, great bootpack all the way from InterGlacier to 12,500 or so, and wanded pretty well too. Interesting to note how many parties roped up for the Emmons section between Camp Curtis and Schurman, and how many didn't. Also interesting to note some parties roping up for the Inter Glacier, and others not. The glissade down the Inter Glacier is incredible right now!

Thanks for confirming, JustinP -- that's what I remembered, but it's been a long time since I was last there.

Any need to rope up to get to Schurman?

Thanks for the math, that's a sensible way to approach it. As for heating the canister: I've found that setting the canister in a saucer or bowl of warm/hot water really kicks up the output of the canister. I've never gone to the trouble of building a copper-wire canister heating contraption, but have heard that its very effective. One note: MSR Reactors kick out HUGE amounts of Carbon Monoxide. Definitely need to use them in open/ventilated areas.

Hello, folks I have recently acquired a MSR Reactor stove, which boils water ridiculously fast. Planning to spend 4 days up on Rainier (summitting via the Emmons Route and spending time at high camp on either end) and wanted to know how many fuel canisters you'd personally take, for a party of four? I assume we'll be melting snow for water, for four people, for four days. I've worked with white gas and whisperlights in the past, and am having a hard time approximating the fuel needs for such a trip, given the party size and the wildcard that is the Reactor stove. Thanks in advance