goatboy

Other than expense (not sure if you're insured or not), what would be the reason not to see a doctor about this?

It's really more like free-soloing, with occasional rests protected by a big old OSHA-style daisy chain/carabiner. I was an arborist for awhile and was not nearly as exposed as this guy, though I did swing around in a tree with a chainsaw running. That was a little nerve-racking for me.

It's one of those things that lots of people (myself included) have probably thought about but never actually taken the time and done the work to haul the gear up there to do it. Pretty amazing experience, I imagine.

The easier chimney is more on the West (rather than South) aspect, overlooking the West Ridge route. The obvious chimney visible directly above the standard route above the lieback is harder, like 5.8 or so as people have said.

Not so sure he's human afer all. He is now attempting to climb the North Face of the Eiger less than six months after this accident!

Yeah, East-side is where it's at these days, huh.

I think 54 days, 30 less than usual, warrants a little whining. Doesn't mean we can't make the best of what's left, or that we have anything really to complain about since we live in the most glorious place I can honestly imagine.

Lovely trip, and very nice juxtaposition of words and images. You're a great writer! You should write for online mountaineering journals. Oh wait, you already do that...

What in the world is happening? TR's about snowfall on routes, fresh snow on summits, shivering... where has summer gone? We went to Tieton this past weekend, which I usually reserve for October but it just felt right, somehow.

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The big boulder with spraypainted arrows is helpful to find the start, sadly enough

When folks climb Sharkfin this late in the season, what is the route of choice to get from the Quien Sabe up onto the upper snowfield to access the start of the South East Ridge? The standard couloir (as per Nelson) that I climbed years ago in June would certainly be melted out and broken by now. Do folks usually gain that shelf via gullies further to the west?

You referred to MSH as "iconic" and it may seem so to the rest of the world who followed the eruption news, but as far as climbing and alpine grandeur, I'd rather be in the Monte Cristo Range (i.e. Gothic Basin, mentioned above), not to mention the sublime Cascade Pass or Enchantments. FORGET MSH and spend your time in more rewarding places. You'll be glad. MSH is a mound of scree and dirt right now.

Rainy Pass gear repair on Stone Way

Above the Gendarme there is a short, 5.8-ish wall to surmount before gaining easier terrain, must have been exciting to simul-climb through that. Nice job!

Kevin Mclane's book (Canadian publisher) is the best and most recent. Great photos and history and helpful topo's, etc. As usual, go Canadian.

I soloed this route (with a partner) about 5 years ago, and we only roped up for the short 5.7 crack (pictured above as MG01 Leading). It was great, and though steep and exposed in short spots, overall, seemed very secure given the proliferation of positive, incut edges for hands and feet. Sure made it go by quickly and pleasantly. Thanks for the good memories and nice images of the route.

What condition is the Colchuck Glacier in? What was your plan to descend (assuming you topped out)? The Colchuck Glacier is often an ugly grey shield of ice this time of year. Not sure how the late spring has influenced things up there this year.

Hi Juan, I imagine it's snow-level dependent? Thanks for the beta, goatboy

Hey folks - thanks so much for the helpful info. We ended up not climbing the Block due to bad weather (that improved too late for us to take advantage of it). Hope to get it another time.

Hey Jhamaker, You are mistaken - I am NOT a hardman! To clarify, it's a 60-M skinny double rope, so it will be 30 meters when we're climbing on it ... but I was curious if the single rope would be good to rappel on (since Beckey's book indicates taking two ropes, but I was skeptical about needing two). Did you climb the NE Ridge of the Chopping Block? What did you like about it? That's what we're planning to do, looking forward to it.

Did you guys top out on the gendarme, or traverse off to the right before the top? One time when I topped out, it was hard getting back onto the ridge crest and I had to do a short rappel to get back into action. Felt like I could have just traversed off to the right a little ways below the top and avoided all that.

Hoping to get by with just dragging one 60-M rope up the hill...any input?

Nice work, that's a great lightweight strategy and car shuttle tactic.

It definitely never happened.