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#946183 - 03/07/10 09:31 PM [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne1112 Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 2639
TRs: 29 Photos: 210
Loc: relative
Trip: Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider

Date: 3/6/2010

Trip Report:



Over the last 23 or so years, I developed an interest (read: obsession) with the ice climbs up an obscure volcanic wall on the East Face of mt Hood. I first viewed the face while doing a solo ski traverse around the upper Mt. Hood in 1987. Jeff Thomas’ Oregon High book had some questions looking for any information on the Eiger like wall. The hook was very set, as it was basically untouched and offered 6-10 big climbs around 1000' feet tall. Without any info, I started a campaign of exploration up its many ice routes with great results. Steve Elder and I did the first ascent of the main wall in feb-94, followed by a couple other routes that were nothing less than astounding alpine climbs of the highest order. Then I began a long series of attempts on the “Center Drip”‘ that took the best line on the entire face. Finding never-ending setbacks with weather and conditions, my patience wore thin after more than a dozen attempts. It finally came together this March with reports of Ice on the wall from 2 great sources. My local Pullman partner , Beau- accompanied me on our successful bid. The climb went so very well.We did it in blocks with 4 total pitches , the final crux one was a full 60 m of airy positioning. The route was an instant classic and deserves many ascents in the future. Besides incredible ambience, It is a very doable route as well.We had a great time on this wonderful classic climb. Enjoy the pictures and video, It felt really great to wrap up such a project. I will do a blow-by blow if wanted and I must promote the new Climbing Guide to Mt. Hood expected out this fall!
As always, looking forward to your trip report, Wayne




My 38th ice pitch this season.



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http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946185 - 03/07/10 09:37 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne1112]
ivan Offline
sprayer

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 9190
TRs: 71 Photos: 718
Loc: Oceania
nice, so what did everyone else do this weekend? lmao

glad you nailed it in time for the book!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#946186 - 03/07/10 09:38 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: ivan]
ivan Offline
sprayer

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 9190
TRs: 71 Photos: 718
Loc: Oceania
so, now you've nailed it, what are you saying are the main indications the wall's in likely shape?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#946189 - 03/07/10 09:44 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne1112]
Water Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/09
Posts: 352
TRs: 1 Photos: 40
Loc: pdx
rocken very, very cool. awesome to see such commitment and perseverance finally come to fruition! we were up on the spur on sat.. maybe your snowshoe tracks we saw down lower? looks like you were up on it well before we got very high on the spur.

congratulations on a job well done!!!!
_________________________

feel free to feel free

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#946192 - 03/07/10 09:47 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: Water]
rocketparrotlet Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/21/09
Posts: 392
TRs: 2 Photos: 0
Loc: Everett
Looks awesome! Great job on the FA! Have you climbed the route with the big waterfall to the left of it as well?

-Mark
_________________________
I'm always looking for a climbing partner!
Send me a PM- I'm up for just about anywhere.

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#946194 - 03/07/10 09:51 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: rocketparrotlet]
wayne1112 Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 2639
TRs: 29 Photos: 210
Loc: relative
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.



Dont make us Washingtonians poach all of your good lines!
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946195 - 03/07/10 09:55 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne1112]
rocketparrotlet Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/21/09
Posts: 392
TRs: 2 Photos: 0
Loc: Everett
Originally Posted By: wayne1112
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.


Sorry I wasn't able to read it straight from the video.

Maybe in a few years when I know what I am doing, I will give it a shot! Such a beautiful route you put up. Congrats!

-Mark
_________________________
I'm always looking for a climbing partner!
Send me a PM- I'm up for just about anywhere.

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#946196 - 03/07/10 09:55 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne1112]
ivan Offline
sprayer

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 9190
TRs: 71 Photos: 718
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: wayne1112
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.

quitter!!! smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#946204 - 03/07/10 10:20 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: ivan]
wolbs Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/09/09
Posts: 6
TRs: 1 Photos: 6
Loc: pdx
Nice work! Way to take advantage of the conditions/weather.

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#946205 - 03/07/10 10:25 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: ivan]
dirtysouth Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/16/09
Posts: 14
TRs: 4 Photos: 25
Loc: Portland, OR
Until I read your trip report, I thought it was pretty cool that I put first tracks up the West Crater Rim on Saturday lmao No seriously, congrats on a sweeeeet climb!
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The nearest Chick-fil-a is 12 hours too far!

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#946206 - 03/07/10 10:25 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wolbs]
Pilchuck71 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/26/09
Posts: 591
TRs: 12 Photos: 164
Loc: Bellingham, Washington
Very cool!
Congrats.
Nice photos especially # 3.
Cheers!
_________________________
www.onemansmountainadventures.blogspot.com

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#946208 - 03/07/10 10:29 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wolbs]
TurinTheLost Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/27/09
Posts: 20
TRs: 1 Photos: 6
Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

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#946211 - 03/07/10 10:35 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: TurinTheLost]
wayne1112 Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 2639
TRs: 29 Photos: 210
Loc: relative
Originally Posted By: TurinTheLost
Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

Thanks, we were up at 5 am from our 8000' camp and summited at 10 am. Waiting to thank the guy who gave us an apple at the summit.
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http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946212 - 03/07/10 10:38 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: wayne1112]
Tom_Sjolseth Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 280
TRs: 20 Photos: 1132
Loc: Land o' Peaks
Sick. What a nice looking line!
_________________________
Heavy and slow.

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#946219 - 03/07/10 11:11 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: Tom_Sjolseth]
rocky_joe Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/25/08
Posts: 408
TRs: 10 Photos: 68
Loc: High Horse Mountain
damnwayne. that's awesome. thanks for the video stoke as well.
_________________________
On a never ending quest to not pay retail.

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#946228 - 03/08/10 02:57 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: rocky_joe]
stevetimetravlr Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 403
TRs: 0 Photos: 36
Loc: Washington
sweet

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#946236 - 03/08/10 06:53 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: stevetimetravlr]
Joe_Poulton Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 348
TRs: 1 Photos: 41
Loc: Portland, OR/ Denver, CO USA
Great climbing...got to get on it! Anyone up for a first ascent of another line over there?

Congrat Wayne!

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#946237 - 03/08/10 06:57 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: dirtysouth]
Joe_Poulton Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 348
TRs: 1 Photos: 41
Loc: Portland, OR/ Denver, CO USA
I see a variation on Arachnophobia.

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#946240 - 03/08/10 07:07 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: Joe_Poulton]
wayne1112 Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 2639
TRs: 29 Photos: 210
Loc: relative
Arach is so fat all the way. A direct finish is begging for your tools. Look for the window guys, as long as it doesnt get too warm

_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946253 - 03/08/10 08:24 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: wayne1112]
ColinB Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/16/06
Posts: 80
TRs: 3 Photos: 25
Loc: Portland, OR
Whats the pro like? Screws, pins, nuts? Too bad weather rolled in...

Congrats on finally getting the line done. A few of us were gunning for the same route on Thurs and bailed because we didn't like the snow stability.

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#946271 - 03/08/10 09:18 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: wayne1112]
wdietsch Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/20/01
Posts: 842
TRs: 0 Photos: 49
Loc: vancouver, wa
outstanding .. !!! tup

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#946275 - 03/08/10 09:33 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: dirtysouth]
OlegV Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 390
TRs: 13 Photos: 179
Loc: Potland, OR
Congrats on your climb! Looks impressive. What camera are you using?

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#946276 - 03/08/10 09:35 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: wdietsch]
billbob Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/13/06
Posts: 386
TRs: 0 Photos: 81
Loc: Portland ?
Congratulations Wayne !!

Thanks for the inspiration, and thanks for all your help with the Guide.
_________________________
"There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open" Nehru

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#946278 - 03/08/10 09:43 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: billbob]
billcoe Offline
sprayer

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 9422
TRs: 3 Photos: 732
Loc: pdx
Ditto on the congrats Wayne, sweet stuff. Nice to see an obsession actually not get someone arrested for once... lmao and it looks like the freezing level is actually dropping so it's gonna be there more than 15 min!

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#946281 - 03/08/10 09:50 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: billcoe]
sisu Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/07/08
Posts: 63
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: cascadia
Nice job, Wayne! Glad you finally got it!
_________________________
When you reach the top of the mountain, keep climbing.

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