TurinTheLost

Wow!! So extremely impressive, I can't even describe it! Nice work guys!! A very bold accent. Way to have the vision to pull this off. I am definitely inspired. This goes to show that there are awesome alpine routes still to be had in Oregon.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Elliot Headwall Date: 6/2/2013 Trip Report: Mito and I had settled on plans to head up to Hood and try the Pencil if was in and if not do the Elliot headwall. We left sat morning from PDX left the Tilly Jane Trail head around 9:30 and made it up to Snow dome sometime around 4 I want to say. Built a nice camp site with snow walls as it was a bit windy. I really didn't want a repeat of taking down a tent in the middle of the night like a few weeks ago on rainier. We determined that the Pencil was not in. Looked like sun bleached ice, or snow. Probably climbable but most likely not protectable. So we set our sites for a line up the headwall. Started moving in the morning around 5:30. Crossed over onto the Elliot glacier right away and walked up more or less the center of the glacier. Cracks were very well filled in. placed a few pickets for the comfort of it while crossing the Elliot, and soon got to the base of the headwall where I belayed Mito up. There was a pretty obvious line of least resistance through the headwall which we chose. Starting basically from climbers left and weaving around a bit up to a snow gully followed by the final steep pitch to the summit ridge. I'd say most of the climbing was around WI2/3. We did it in 4 pitches from the base of the headwall to the summit ridge, with only a bit of simul-climbing. We placed almost exclusively screws. I couldn't believe how good the ice was up there. That was until the last pitch at least where we ran into thin sunbleached ice. Incredible climbing though, certainly deserves more attention. Elliot Headwall we went up Left side of pic to the snow gully and final steep pitch. Approach to the Headwall P1 P2 P3 P4 P4 Gear Notes: Took 5 screws on route with us wouldn't have hurt to have one or two more. Took 3 pickets, 2 would have done just fine. Took some rock pro and pins didn't need any of it. Approach Notes: TJ trail head to snow dome makes for a nice leisurely approach day instead of doing it C2C.

Trip: Liberty Bell group - SW gully, chock stone gully, Becky route Date: 4/26/2013 Trip Report: Mostly a conditions report. Here are some Pics. We did the N. Early winter spire via the chockstone gully. S. Early winter via SW gully, and Liberty bell via the Becky route (pretty fun and challenging in mountaineering boots). We scoped out N. Face of grey beard but was definitely not in at the time. Is probably shaping up nicely after the warm weather with a cold snap. Tip for the trip...Don't accidentally let your rope gnab your ice tool and fling it down the wrong coulior. Leads to alot of shenagigains and cornice digging. N. Face Grey beard (04-25-2013) Silverstar? west face Early Winter Couloir West faces N & S early winter w/ chockstone gully rapping to top of chockstone gully from N. Early winter. Getting up N. Early winter from top of chockstone gully 2nd pitch becky route Liberty bell, scoping the icy cracks. Summit psych

Anybody been up on the east side of hood and have some pics or thoughts on conditions? Pics from low on cooper spur can show the area well.

Your place does look pretty sick and it would awesome to live there, but I don't think I could handle the portland commute. I would be going through a book on tape week all while pulling out my hair because I would be perpetually stuck in traffic. Beacon Rock in your backyard does sound pretty sweet though.

Hey matt. Ya I remember you guys, that was a fun day. I would be looking to move in start of June. Not really sure where I'd like to be, I don't know Portland very well, but I hear SE is nice. I'll be working downtown, so good biking distance would be great or a snappy max line ride.

I'll be moving to Portland soon, after a short stint of work in New Mexico I have decided to take a great job offer in the big city of Portland. So I thought I would start here to see if anyone is looking for a roommate or knows of anyone who is. (I figured this would be a hell of a better place to start than craigslist) It would be awesome to move in with a fellow climber or two. Anybody have any leads??

I am heading to SE asia tomorrow pretty much and will be down there for two months. After seeing this post I'll be bringing my entire trad rack and hopefully make it up there!! So are any of you going to still be around??

They are mens size 10.5. They are in great condition, and perfect for colder weather mountaineering. I got them for a trip to Alaska and haven't really used the much since. I wouldn't recomend getting them if you have a wide foot. That was my only issue with them. If you want more pics or more info post here or email me at forrest.kaye@gmail.com $200

So I got a job offer in Las Cruces NM and am wondering if there is any climbing in that area. Or what the rest of New Mexico has to offer. After a while I may be able to live elsewhere outside of Las Cruses. I hear Taos is pretty damn cool. If anyone knows anything else about Las Cruses in general I am interested...I hear it's not the greatest place.

Monday the 22nd, my bad. It was when the weather was moving in and had pretty consistently strong gusts of wind. I just met the guys and can't even remember their names. They made it sound like the fall was directly on route because they said anyone on Serpentine would have been crushed. But it sounds very likely that what you saw was what they were describing.

I was up in Leavenworth for the last few days and heard from some climbers that were up on Backbone ridge that there was a MASSIVE rockfall on serpentine arete. That would have been on monday the 23rd. The fall was due to huge winds. Thought people should know. I would be curious to know if the rockfall significantly changed things up there. At very least there is probably some more very loose rock up there. Be warned!

This was by far the most impressive thing I have ever seen on the mountain! Seeing and feeling that amount of force so close was out of this world! It was fun climbing with you Mito!

Looking for someone to do a good route on Rainier. I was thinking Liberty Ridge, but would but up for something else. I have time this Sat through Tuesday. Late notice but I've been itching to get out and couldn't round people up last min. I've been up twice before, DC and Fuhrer Finger. Doing any line other than these would be cool with me. If you can't do it this weekend but want to anytime in the future hit me up. I'm always looking for more people to go out with.

I was wondering what advice people could give me on technical mountaineering boots with the widest toebox. I have a pair or Scarpa 6000's right now and they kill my wide feet. I thought they would get broken in. But after a year of pretty good use they still give me major problems. Also they have a major heel slip issue(=gnarly blisters), I cant lace them down tight enough. Anyways some solid advice would be most appreciated.

Hey, Larry & Candy. I ended up descending via the Milk Creek Glacier. We decided it was too late to decent back down the Jeff Glacier and instead of bivying until it got cold we just went down. Then I came back up on tues to grab my stuff. Thats when I met Larry. Been to busy to post a TR doubt If I will but it was an amazing climb. Unfortunately the people I was climbing with had a tent up and went back to get their stuff on monday and got within 300 ft to see it blow away in front of their faces! They recovered most of their stuff but returned with a badly damaged tent. It was good climbing with you Candy I've got some good pics I've got to send you.

I am driving up to Alaska around April 11th and will be returning sometime around May 8th. I've got the time and a new to me truck (chevy Silverado) that needs an adventure to break it in. I'm looking for a climbing partner or just a trip partner to split gas. My plan is to get in as much mountaineering as possible in AK, and possibly do Mt. Robson on the way. I'm easy going and have got the truck to sleep out of on the way up. The dates are somewhat flexible. I've got no real schedule just looking for some good climbing. Shoot me an email forrest.kaye@gmail.com or PM me if you're interested. -Forrest Kaye

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Trip: Mt. Hood - Cooper Spur Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: Left the Tilly Jane Trail head around 1:00. Shortly after starting we were at the crux of the climb, solid ice on the trail. We were tempted to break out the crampons. Ice skates would have been nice:) Hung out in one of the cabins for a bit, we got denied the comfort of TJ cabin by a large sure to be climber eating dog inside. Saw two climbers blaze past us while we were shooting the breeze inside. Jealous of their pace and not having the route to ourselves we started off. Brought snow shoes which were nice when we were tromping through the woods between TJ Cabin and treeline, but otherwise unnecessary. Met up with the other two Matt(Water) and Jess, and had enjoyed their company the rest of the day. (They even gave us a ride back to our car after we descended the SS, thanks guys it was awesome climbing with ya!) Conditions overall were great. Although it seems to be changing quickly up there. There was a real spicy spot on a steepest 55 degree slope when the snow ran thin for 30 feet or so down to 6 inches of sugar on top of rock. It definitely made the route more interesting. No telling how long this will be in for the year conditions are changing quick. Wayne and Beau I scanned my pics for you guys on Center Drip-Black Spider but couldn't see you anywhere. Maybe if I had a better res camera we could see you guys kicking some butt up there from a distance. Gear Notes: Brought pickets, rope and 2nd tool didn't use any of it. Approach Notes: Ice skates, snowshoes not necessary.

Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

Nice work man! Great pics and TR. I was up there on the same day. I think we were on your tracks for a bit. Myself and two others went up Fuhrer Finger and descended Gib Ledges. We opted out of the actual summit about 800ft below the rim because of the winds. Kudos to you for keeping on in that life sucking wind!

I had to re-edit something on the video so the link doesn't work any longer. Here is the Hood video again.

Oops link doesn't work HERE is the video.

I thought I would make it eloquent. Maybe I'll make another one with the bitching and the steam vents, haha. Give everyone the reality version. Oh and I have the exploding roman candle up. Check it out. How do I link it straight from the TR?

Here is the video I threw together. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xr9nVfn5BC8 -Forrest