JosephH Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Yes it does, but when it happens on the SE Corner's Tree Ledge or any other ledge at Beacon you need to clean up after yourself. It doesn't matter how - wrap it up in your shirt if nothing else - but pack it out with you. And if you have the slightest doubt about whether you can make it up a route with without this particular problem occuring then you need to either do something short, bail, or take a bag to pack it out with you if the unavoidable happens. And in the case of the SE Corner Tree Ledge especially, don't dump right where everyone clearly sits and steps - take it on the other side of the tree towards the outside of the ledge for god's sake. Changing anchors I don't mind, but folks need to gather a enough self-respect to clean up after themselves when an event like this takes place. And while the bitchfest is in full swing and we're talking stinking butts - whoever is tossing their cigarette butts all over the place needs to stop once and for all. I don't really don't give a shit who you are, and you're clearly out there a lot, stuff the damn butts in your pocket and pack them back out. - The janitorial staff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Whoa! That's rough stuff there. Nice rant though. I usually have the crap scared out of me when I'm just stepping out of my car and looking up at that rock before I even get out of the parking lot. I think they put that restroom right there for us climbers having these moments in fact! Son and I were out shooting yesterday, and were picking up some other jackasses brass and shells which they had left scattered all over the f*k along with a campfire ring which they somehow had considered a garbage dump as well. So they'd left cans, couple of beer bottles and other non-burnable shit all over right there figuring someone would pick up after them. Even the cigarette butts had been flicked towards the ring, but didn't make it in and were laying on the ground unburned. I figured it was a great thing for me to find this. It was a perfect chance to share a lesson to reinforce to my son something I think is important. 1) Don't leave your shit around on public land for others to pick up. 2) Pick up when someone forgets rule #1 and make the camp better than you find it. We got a better part of a 5 gallon bucket filled between our shells and the stuff we found there. Kid was feeling proud that we'd done a good deed after we'd cleaned all the weapons and then cleaned all the ground. I think had I wandered by a fresh one on SE Corner ledge though, I could put off rule #2 till it dried out, which fortunately shouldn't be long given the heat these days. Damn, must have been an embarrassing emergency for some poor soul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
112 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I didn't think the milk and cookies we ate at the base would hit me like that, but then I had a cigarette... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 JH.....are you saying someone took a shit on tree ledge? That is hard to believe, but the cig buts are not.... Beacon is not a trash can. Please pack it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Yep, right smack in the middle of the dirt instantly after the first root. The guys who were up there when I got there had covered it up with dirt and rock. I ended up getting a plate-sized piece of moss from above the ledge, getting it all up, and then launching it between YW and Stone Rodeo. Sucked big time. The cig butt thing has been bugging me for several years and it's a really unbelievably inconsiderate, self-centered, and childish deal as far as I'm concerned. Lord knows I don't give a damn if someone wants to smoke, but leaving butts all over is just disrespecting the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Beacon is not a trash can. Please pack it out. It may not be a trash can, but I hear its a shit hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 we were on the SE corner (late) yesterday and i thought i smelled something there. (i kept checking the bottom of my climbing shoe.) and no, it wasnt me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Bob strikes again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Total shithole, moss, choss, poison oak up the wazzu, we've have near continous rock fall on every side, trains that make climbing intolerable, overgrown routes, a clutch of resident psychos, and shit flying down on you night and day. Go elsewhere, please... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Total shithole, moss, choss, poison oak up the wazzu, we've have near continous rock fall on every side, trains that make climbing intolerable, overgrown routes, a clutch of resident psychos, and shit flying down on you night and day. Go elsewhere, please... I second that.....Beacon sucks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 plus, kevbone climbs there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 If the fact that both kevbone and I climb there doesn't by itself deter most folks I'm not sure what will... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 How about taking a fat crap on the most popular ledge out there. And only 5 mins off the deck. WTF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 You could tell from yesterday's crowds of folks unfamilar with Beacon that high gas prices are really starting to bring in folks on weekends we otherwise wouldn't see. Some of them are prepared to deal out there, many were not. Could get ugly before the season's out. Hope we don't end up with a bunch of accidents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Is there a Squamish TR in the offing G? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 If the fact that both kevbone and I climb there doesn't by itself deter most folks I'm not sure what will... It might entice them to shit on the most popular ledge at your favorite crag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 You could tell from yesterday's crowds of folks unfamilar with Beacon that high gas prices are really starting to bring in folks on weekends we otherwise wouldn't see. Some of them are prepared to deal out there, many were not. Could get ugly before the season's out. Hope we don't end up with a bunch of accidents. Seems like there's been a lot of dipshits at Index this season too. I saw some folks earlier this season toproping the first 30 feet of Jap Gardens with one quickdraw through one bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I saw some folks earlier this season toproping the first 30 feet of Jap Gardens with one quickdraw through one bolt. That's makes for a total of 4 pieces of gear. They backed up the biner on the blot with a draw and another biner. Isn't that redundant enough??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 If the fact that both kevbone and I climb there doesn't by itself deter most folks I'm not sure what will... It might entice them to shit on the most popular ledge at your favorite crag. Given I was out there at the time and nearby it could also just mean their aim was bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 (edited) I saw some folks earlier this season toproping the first 30 feet of Jap Gardens with one quickdraw through one bolt. That's makes for a total of 4 pieces of gear. They backed up the biner on the blot with a draw and another biner. Isn't that redundant enough??? i think he was saying no other gear... and the first couple of pieces of gear on the ground will do you a ton of good... Edited July 29, 2008 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I saw some folks earlier this season toproping the first 30 feet of Jap Gardens with one quickdraw through one bolt. That's makes for a total of 4 pieces of gear. They backed up the biner on the blot with a draw and another biner. Isn't that redundant enough??? and the first couple of pieces of gear on the ground will do you a ton of good... Huh? The second biner was a backup in case the biner on the bolt failed, and both were backed up with the runner on the draw Isn't that enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 That bolt should be chopped anyway. You can protect with a #6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Now that we are on the subject, what about all those cams everyone is "littering" at Beacon. Seems like every day I see some nice crack all dirtied up with one of them new fangled camming gizmos. Sheesh, place it in, pack it out. Gettin kind of tired of collecting all of em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I saw some folks earlier this season toproping the first 30 feet of Jap Gardens with one quickdraw through one bolt. That's makes for a total of 4 pieces of gear. They backed up the biner on the blot with a draw and another biner. Isn't that redundant enough??? and the first couple of pieces of gear on the ground will do you a ton of good... Huh? The second biner was a backup in case the biner on the bolt failed, and both were backed up with the runner on the draw Isn't that enough? you are a fucking moron...he said ONE QD ON ONE BOLT...duhfuckingduh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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