paborden Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 So, here's a question - how much potential do you think there is for new routes on Rainier that aren't, like, silly little variations? Had been talking with someone who mentioned a line to climber's left of Liberty Ridge, called maybe the Mowich Ice Face as he recalled, that featured crazy overhanging ice climbing - but I'm not sure this makes any sense to me. Quote
DPS Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) Mowich face is climber's right of Ptarmigan Ridge - quite a ways from Liberty Ridge. Climber's left of Liberty Ridge would be the Willis Wall, I think. My guess is that any new route would be a variation of an existing route, but I'm not an expert as I seem to climb the same few routes over and over, or at least fail on the same routes over and over. Edited March 24, 2015 by DPS Quote
christophbenells Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 I don't think your gonna find any new routes up rainier. Unless you do something very dangerous... its all been climbed, except directly under big ice cliffs, sure that would be a new route but a stupid route. Those things break off and would smash you to oblivion. Quote
CaleHoopes Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 66 Routes according to Alex Van Steen & Fred Beckey. I wonder what variations can go past that. http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Mount-Rainier-Essentials-Guide/dp/0966979508 Quote
JBC Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 So, here's a question - how much potential do you think there is for new routes on Rainier that aren't, like, silly little variations? Had been talking with someone who mentioned a line to climber's left of Liberty Ridge, called maybe the Mowich Ice Face as he recalled, that featured crazy overhanging ice climbing - but I'm not sure this makes any sense to me. Climber's left of Lib Ridge would be Thermogenesis - FA was in the late 70s or early 80s. It is an avalanche chute and often swept by icefall from the ice cliffs at the top of the Willis Wall. The left side of Liberty Ridge does not appear to have been ascended but is more of a variation nad probably fairly avy prone as well. To climber's right is Liberty wall with what are two of probably the most dangerous routes on Rainier. As others have said, not a lot of scope for new routes, more like variations, and a number of those in very hazardous positions. Quote
ivan Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 maybe we'll be lucky and live through some sorta major eruptive event and get to FA something on a monumentally reworked mountain? Quote
matt_warfield Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 Willis Wall. And hope you survive. Step out of the boot pack on trade routes and call it a variation. Like ivan said hope for an eruption so it will blow its top off like St. Helens and it becomes a walkup. Quote
Pete_H Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 I think there's more potential for new ski lines. Probably mostly variations of other routes but may not have been done because they make more sense to ski then just to climb. Quote
wayne Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 Rumor has it that there is a wi5 line that forms on the Mowich. Heard 2nd hand so... Quote
Dale Farnham Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma. Trying too hard to create a new route just creates a contrived variation. I agree that there are several potential unskied lines. I wish I wasn't so damn old...and drunk. Quote
wdietsch Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma. I'll 2nd that motion Quote
ivan Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 'specially if combined w/ a ski-descent of thermogenisis? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 One could aid climb something heinous under a serac and name it after him/herself. It would likely go unrepeated for years! Fame , glory,beautiful women... Quote
kukuzka1 Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 I don't think your gonna find any new routes up rainier. Unless you do something very dangerous... its all been climbed, except directly under big ice cliffs, sure that would be a new route but a stupid route. Those things break off and would smash you to oblivion. kinda like the kautz route Quote
kukuzka1 Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma. Trying too hard to create a new route just creates a contrived variation. I agree that there are several potential unskied lines. I wish I wasn't so damn old...and drunk. agree or a FWA on some of the western routes, there pretty isolated Quote
Lowell_Skoog Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 Climber's left of Lib Ridge would be Thermogenesis - FA was in the late 70s or early 80s. It is an avalanche chute and often swept by icefall from the ice cliffs at the top of the Willis Wall. The left side of Liberty Ridge does not appear to have been ascended but is more of a variation nad probably fairly avy prone as well. Climber's left (east) side of Liberty Ridge has been skied. See: http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/topos/mt-rainier.html I suggested the name "Cryogenesis" to the original ski party and it seems to have stuck. The ski line diverges from the Thermogenesis climbing route fairly low, so I think giving it an independent (but related) name is justifiable. Quote
Bronco Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 Lowell, thanks for your work on recording all of those descents, very cool to see them all in one spot! Quote
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