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JBC

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Everything posted by JBC

  1. JBC

    faggoty book read'n

    Good for you! I never was able to get all the way through it. Probably because it is a genre I truly detest. (The idiot who never learns from their mistakes continues to bumble through life.) Never had the patience for it.
  2. Close, the quote most likely comes from David Hannum who said of P.T. Barnum and his customers "There's a sucker born every minute"
  3. Closed - they posted on their Facebook page in December: the cobbler shop is closed. Please don't send shoes.
  4. Goodbye's too good a word, ... So I'll just say fare thee well - with apologies to Bob Dylan
  5. Your best bet i to follow the directions for tying in that came with your harness.
  6. I think that wreckage is from the 1968 Air force T-33 trainer crash.
  7. i am sure, you are a genius. I am not a genius at all. Even a person of average intelligence should be able to understand Raindawgs statement. Once again, either you chose to ignore his clear statement in order to foster your own argument or you are an idiot.
  8. Not looking real good for August this year. Things appear to be about a month advanced at this point. The guide services have already put in at three ladders on the DC route and things are melting out fast. The Emmons/Winthrop looks to be holding up better at this point, but I expect it will be very icy up top by August. I would say get on Rainer now, or if you have to schedule your climb for August make other plans.
  9. No glassgowkiss, the pile of shit statement is yours! Raindawg is standing by his original statement which was quite concise, clear and unambiguous. One that you twisted nearly out of recognition and continue to do so. There was no implication on his part, but rather an erroneous inference on your part. Perhaps it was an honest mistake, you red into the statement something that was not there, or maybe you just are not very bright and don't really understand this clear statement. I rather suspect that it is really that the statement as is didn't suit your purposes so you twisted it until it did. Funny you accusing Raindawg of not sticking by his statement. Fact is, he has taken a stance that is largely unpopular here and stuck by it for years. If anyone can be said to be standing by his original statement it is Raindawg. In contrast the majority of your posts here are utter and complete drivel, but I have to say the twist you have imparted on this thread take the cake, even for you.
  10. Really glassgowkiss? You might want to read a bit more carefully before calling people out. Raindawg never made any claims about free climbing related Numbah10:
  11. Climber's left of Lib Ridge would be Thermogenesis - FA was in the late 70s or early 80s. It is an avalanche chute and often swept by icefall from the ice cliffs at the top of the Willis Wall. The left side of Liberty Ridge does not appear to have been ascended but is more of a variation nad probably fairly avy prone as well. To climber's right is Liberty wall with what are two of probably the most dangerous routes on Rainier. As others have said, not a lot of scope for new routes, more like variations, and a number of those in very hazardous positions.
  12. I have a few boots for sale. First firm commitment followed by prompt payment gets the boots. Prices include SCARPA Charmoz Pro GTX GoreTex Mountaineering Boots size 43 1/2 (about a 9.5 US) $125.00 including CONUS shipping Boots are in good shape, with moderate use. Waterproof, clean with lots of sole left. There is one small tear in the outer fabric that has been patched with shoe goo (see photos) Lowa Tempest Lo boots size 42 (US 9) In very good shape. Clean and lots of sole left. lots of life left in these. $35.00 with CONUS shipping included.
  13. For moderate trade routes in the Leavenworth area they really are not needed. You could find placements for them, but in general there are plenty of placements for regular cams. To put it in perspective, the vast majority of those route were led for years with just stoppers and hexes before cams became ubiquitous.
  14. Never did like icing myself. Usually pull it off the cake and give it to my wife.
  15. Promises, promises, we should be so lucky. But, since it appears that you have decided to stay and spray in any case maybe you can answer something for me? You continually defend WA State Parks closure as being based on scientific principals regarding the nesting habits of the falcons on the one hand, yet on the other you blame some climber's here for delaying the opening via their actions? Which is it Joe, you can't have it both ways. Is the closure to protect the Peregrines, or is it to punish alleged climber misconduct?
  16. Nuts are fine, the tooth has been climbed on just nuts for many decades. I first lead the tooth in the late 70s in my first season of technical climbing on a ragtag collection of nuts, all purchased on closeout - old timers here may remember straight sided stoppers, Clog Cogs and Forrest Titons. probably had a total of 8 nuts between my partner and I. As advised, keep the pitches short, use the natural belays that present themselves and you will not need a heavy rack. You should have no problem QUICKLY setting up and tearing down the belays if you have some leading experience. Enjoy!
  17. Base of the fan is at about 6,200 feet.
  18. I found a camera on the E Ridge of Eldorado this week. Send me a private message identifying the camera and we can make arrangements to get it back to you.
  19. Another thumbs up for Edgeworks - great place, great people! one of the things I truly miss about Tacoma!
  20. The eTrex 30 runs right at $300.00 and includes altimeter and compass, both of which are real handy to have in the GPS. Yes you should carry analog backups, but with an eTrex 30, you only have one unit to deal with when things get nasty, you don't have to pull out three different items. You will need spend another $100 or so to get map software for it. I would skip the 100K maps and go for the 24K mapsets.
  21. JBC

    Rescue on Mt Hood

    Appears to be the case. I guess I just don't buy that having a lot of experience (in any realm) entitles a person to be an flaming asshole.
  22. JBC

    Rescue on Mt Hood

    It is one thing to call someone out. To say he should be refused help and left to die is out of line in my book! I guess I am just less tolerant of this kind of bullshit than others here are. Jim Couch
  23. JBC

    Rescue on Mt Hood

    Gee, bully for you, you must be a badass climber. Not much of a person, but a great climber. Jim Couch
  24. So how many of you smart folks have actually navigated a whiteout with simply a compass? How many times solo? It's not as easy as you might think. I have never done it solo (thank God) but have done it twice, hard work!
  25. The Ortovox 3+ are also excellent and handle multiple burial situations. Check out http://beaconreviews.com/transceivers/ for reviews of most beacons.
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