RuMR Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 Bunny-face...gonna send that sucker this year! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 8, 2003 Author Posted January 8, 2003 Good work! It's a classic line, and deceptively difficult at that. Truly a proud tick. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 8, 2003 Author Posted January 8, 2003 DFA will give the tendon-tweaking number-chasing routine a break for a while and do some -- are you sitting down? Good. -- trad climbing. Quote
Roger Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 whoa. the board is actually rendered speechless. Â I'm not in favor of this new development - just imagine how boring it could be around here if DFA became a trad climber.... Â DFA: "hey, do you guys prefer camalots or friends for flaring off-widths" Â Cap'n Caveman: "dude, for serious off-widths there's nothing like a #5 camalot, let me know if you need to borrow mine." Â DFA: "gee, thanks, cavey. See you at pub club!" Â Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 DFA does this mean you'll be doning a ripped "Liquor up front - Poker in the rear" t-shirt, kuckle's scabbed, mullet, changing your vocabulary to "dude that's a manky placement" or understand the saying "scared climbing tend to sink their bongs" Â Save yourself man. Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 So now that you're a trad climber what's your proj' DFA? Â Gonna leave Smith? Maybe some alpine? Â I suggest you create a 12a alpine clipup. Quote
Necronomicon Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 Split Beaver at squish is a great first trad lead. Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 I like that you abbreviated Squamish to "squish" to go with split beaver. Onamonapeia. Â I don't think DFA is a first timer, he's just hearing the calling for the first time. Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 I don't know, what's going on in Texas? Quote
texplorer Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 It's probably sunny and flat in Tejas but I'm back in the NW and salivating to climb. I'm lookin at Stein's Pillar, Watusi rodeo, or maybe some BC ice soon. But doesn't it say in revelations the end times are near when sportos start climbing trad. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 9, 2003 Author Posted January 9, 2003 LEAVE SMITH?!! PREPOSTEROUS! Â And you have surmised or inferred correctly; Dr. Flash Amazing is no trad virgin. But it's been many moons since DFA sunk his nuts in a nice slot (jeez, no wonder you trad monkeys are all pervs), and there's no time like the now to polish up them skillz. Of course, it doesn't hurt that the Doctor will have full use of a friend's rack while said friend is off gallivanting about Europe for a few months. Â Project: Karate Crack, perhaps, after a bit of time on the single-digit cruisers to remember how a cam works? But the real project will be teaching Mrs. DFA to trust and place gear, and maybe do some casual multi-pitch stuff. Quote
sk Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 there is a nice EASY multi on koala rock that jk and I did last summer. Don't know how casual you were looking for, but I had a lot of fun with that climb and might lead it this year. Â I love climbing cracks, I just have a hard time trusting the gear, and trusting myself to place it well. Quote
rbw1966 Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 Are you referring to Thin Air muffy? Thats a 5.9 and a lot of fun. The easier multi-pitch route on Koala (name escapes me) is about a 5.4 and as I remember it, a clip up. Â My memory is failing me in my old age though. Â Other nice trad climbs at Smith are the super-classic Spiderman and Zebra Zion (AWESOME climb!!). Â Don't forget Beacon for some nice opportunities to sink your nuts. Quote
sk Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 (edited) I was thinking kaola crack... the 5.4 was trad.... but what di I know Edited January 9, 2003 by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 9, 2003 Author Posted January 9, 2003 Spiderman ! Â ZZ is excellent, although the crux pitch is well over the Doctor's head at this point. Fun route, though. It's funny, if the mobs of people lounging at the base of Morning Glory knew how much loose crap was up there on ZZ, they might not hang out so close to the base! Quote
cracked Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 Loose crap? The only thing that came down when I did it was a carabiner that my dad dropped. Quote
Roger Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 The easier multi-pitch route on Koala (name escapes me) is about a 5.4 and as I remember it, a clip up. Round River? something like 3 pitches, first two are low-angle and mostly bolted, if memory serves... Quote
Alex Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 ZZ is excellent, although the crux pitch is well over the Doctor's head at this point  I thought that was only 10a? Quote
jkrueger Posted January 9, 2003 Posted January 9, 2003 Yeah, it was Round River. The first pitch is all bolted, the 2nd pitch is mostly trad, and the last pitch is trad (but there are only 2 or 3 opportunities for gear placement). It was easy, but really fun, and you only need one rope to get down. A great beginner's multi-pitch route; potentially dangerous for DFA, as it might put him to sleep! Quote
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