[TR] burgundy spire - annie green springs 9/13/2014

[rat]

Trip: burgundy spire - annie green springs

 

Date: 9/13/2014

 

Trip Report:

a bit of info about this neglected, wandering but worthwhile route:

 

1. the direct approach up the paisano/burgundy gully is probably not the best approach. someone placed a relatively new shit show bolt on the slab left of the big chockstone mentioned in the cag. we tunneled under the chockstone from the right. the best approach is via a hidden gully located right of the toe of burgundy's west butt. this would take you easily and directly to the top of the chockstone.

2. 3+ pitches up and rightward (as shown on the cag topo, not leftward as mentioned in the text) lead to the sandy ledge/gully. take the cleanest cracks--quite good climbing if you can overlook the somewhat treed nature of the surrounding area.

3. 2 pitches rising leftward to the right side of the big roof. not the best. perhaps better to do one more pitch directly above the sandy ledge then traverse?

4. up nice layback crack/slab then traverse far left. continue up a pitch to near the top of the greenery. very fine hands/fist crack up to square roof then hand traverse left to crest.

5. directly up crest for full pitch. continue to ridge jct above (sw ridge?) and climb a varied pitch along left side of crest directly over the summit.

 

 

[layton]

Want a medal or something? Jesus Rolf, this kind of "look at me" attitude you posses really won't help when the masses decide to climb this now overly hyped-up route, adding bolts, and eroding trails.

[kukuzka1]

[JasonG]

What sort of glasses are you using to read the TR Mike?

 

i need to learn me some inside jokes

Edited September 20, 2014 by JasonG

[rat]

thanks for the emotional beat down, mike. gonna have a good cry and go to my healing place now.....

 

hope all is well in new yawk.

[DPS]

I was curious about who this Annie Green Springs was so I Googled the name. Turns out it is not the name of a climber but a cheap fortified wine. I guess that makes sense for a route name on one of the Wine Spires.

 

Further Googling indicates the Mary Green Glacier on Bonanza Peak is named after a ladies underwear manufacturer, apparently.

Edited September 19, 2014 by DPS

[layton]

thanks for the emotional beat down, mike. gonna have a good cry and go to my healing place now.....

 

hope all is well in new yawk.

 

Haha! Nice work, Mark Allen and I met at the base of that in the dark years and years ago. Glad to see you're still able to get out

[Choada_Boy]

Dance. Everybody dance.

[Riley81]

The first ascent of this route was done by the late great Chris Greyell may he rest in peace. He had a wonderful sense of humor.

[DPS]

The first ascent of this route was done by the late great Chris Greyell may he rest in peace. He had a wonderful sense of humor.

I did not realize that. I work with his Daughter, Carly.

[G-spotter]

 

Further Googling indicates the Mary Green Glacier on Bonanza Peak is named after a ladies underwear manufacturer, apparently.

 

pics of this melting back?

[rat]

you're either a youngster or your taste in wine was/is too high brow. i make no assumption regarding your taste in ladies' underwear, so to speak.

 

http://www.bumwine.com/

 

don't forget the venerable gallon jugs of "yosemite road" for road trips to the ditch. rip.

[dberdinka]

 

Further Googling indicates the Mary Green Glacier on Bonanza Peak is named after a ladies underwear manufacturer, apparently.

 

pics of this melting back?

 

[Tyson.g]

The first ascent of this route was done by the late great Chris Greyell may he rest in peace. He had a wonderful sense of humor.

 

word

Just over a year since he passed.....

That man is missed greatly, by many.

Thanks for the laughs and memories friend.