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Icicle Vandals


viktor
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Just when you think you've seen it all.

 

Went up to check out a new cragging spot in the Icicle and encountered an odd scene. A bunch of Russian climbers from Seattle were having an "event". Speed climbing with about 20-30 members. They had duct taped flagging tape to mark the routes and were zipping up and down. We decided to move on to an upper crag.

 

We thought it was funny and figured to each his own.

 

Problem came later when the route developers went up there the next day. The speed climbers had removed all their stuff, except for numerous, flagrant, giant PAINT MARKS on and around major holds and features. Needless to say, these guys were flabbergasted and freaked out. They intend to remove the paint but I think the people responsible should be the ones to do that. It is flat out vandalism and cannot be ignored. It is disturbing to think that at least 20 or 30 people climbing in the Icicle last weekend think it is acceptable.

 

What do you think?

 

(Unfortunately, I am unable to upload the pics of the paint marks for some reason, if someone can help me that, that would be great)

 

crazyscene2.JPG

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Quite believable actually, given the Russians' behavior on big faces on the big peaks. Summit at all costs.

 

Probably had a good deal of spray paint AND spray hair product.

 

Lets hope McCain doesn't get wind of this.......

 

Oh and any idea on the ratings involved? Painted 5.8 would be LMFAO!

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WOW, pretty unbeliveable! Thanks for posting this up Viktor.

 

I think it's obvious that there is cultural barrier in ethics in place here.

 

Seems like the a two part approach would be best in this situation.

 

1. Figure out who these guys are, educate them on the proper ethical treatment of the rock. Any leads from Seattle folks? I gotta imagine these folks hit up the gyms to do their speed climbing thing.

 

2. Clean off the paint. Anybody know how to do this? I'm off of work for the next five days and would be happy to help out. Please shoot me a PM if anyone needs a hand.

 

Where are our climbing rangers when we need them?

 

The climbing rangers are furloughed along with 99.9% of the local USFS employees.

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I am the one who has been establishing the new routes at the Carnival Crag area with various partners.

Tomorrow we are going to work on removing the paint. Thanks for all the offers to help. I will let you know tomorrow how it went.

It's interesting that a month ago we left a rope hanging on a route we were working about 10 feet from the route that was spray painted. When we came back the next day it was gone.

The previous summer, in the same area, I left a rope on another route we were working on for several weeks with no problems.

We now have 18 new routes in that area.

Viktor is making a topo of the area for me. When it is finished I will post it for all to use.(except for the Russian speed team. They have other ways of making topos right on the rock)

Jim Phillips

 

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Climbers,

 

I used to just read your website/forum for the awesome trip reports. Seeing where this conversation is going, I decided to actually sign up, as a user.

 

Thank you, Viktor, for bringing this up and I hope the paint will be cleaned off promptly.

 

However, I think it unfair to pin the vandalism on the group of "Russians". You may not be fond of their "speed climbing" but you have no idea whether they painted the wall or not. They did put up the tape, which was taken down, as indicated in the first post.

 

I personally know some of the "speed climbers" and they are contacting the people who arrived first, to set up the route, to see what the real story was. If they did it, the'll own up to it and clean it up. I, personally, doubt it.

 

Let's hold off with the assumptions.

Edited by SVM
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I just got back from wire brushing some paint off of one of the routes. It took about an hour to remove one spot and one half of the second spot. I am reluctant to use paint remover or other chemicals at this point, so my climbing partner, Don, and I will get after it tomorrow with wire brushes and should make good progress.

Talk about cleaned and scrubed holds, this route will have them!

 

Jim

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Thanks to SVM for signing in, and getting the word out to maybe those involved.

Thanks also to JBP & Don for doing the new route work and cleaning up the rock. Maybe ACE has some non-toxic cleaner to make it easier.

And thanks to the assholes for not spraying the name of each route and grade on rocks all over the Icicle. Oops, now I'm giving copy cats an idea. :crazy:

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I myself did not participate in the speed climbing event, but I know people who did.

 

First of all, I want to say that almost nobody out of these 20 speed climbers realized that the paint on the wall was done by someone from their team. It was a recreational climbing event and people were having fun. The painting was done a day before by people who setup the route. They used http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Krylon-5894-15-oz-Marking-Chalk-Spray-Paint-White-6-Pack/163807/Cat/1436?gclid=CLLr38j-jboCFaFxQgodvkUA3A that degrades by itself in 2-4 weeks. This is not an excuse for vandalizing the wall! We Russian climbers all understand it and apologize for one of us being that stupid and irresponsible.

 

This is the facebook of the person who did it: https://www.facebook.com/oashirov

 

Go ahead and tell him why you think it was wrong. We already did.

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Nevtrik,

Thank for the information.

We will check on the paint and see what happens. In four weeks winter will be here and the area might not see much climbing until next spring.

As I said in last nights post the paint was very diffulcult to remove with a wire brush. Hopefully it degrades noticeably in a couple of weeks. That will save us a lot of work.

By the way, many years ago, I climbed for a month in Russia and one of our friends and host was the Russian national speed climbing champion.

It's time to move on and get out and climb as much as we can in this beautiful fall weather!

Jim

 

 

 

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Just like Nevtrik said, I was shocked to find out that it was someone from their group. If I ever see it again, I will be the first to report him to the authorities.

 

 

(UPDATE): Here is a rough translation of the final part of my conversation with the group leader - "The marking chalk was a mistake. We didn't think it through. The plan was to clean it up the same day but we postponed it to the weekend. Even though the paint has been partially cleaned off, we will return this weekend to see if we can clean up anything else and make sure everything is in order. Once again, we apologize for the mistake and we will work to avoid repeating it in the future".

Edited by SVM
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Clearly this is one more compelling argument for more heavily managing the Icicle - along with those 3 fire rings and that pile of misplaced boulderer poo.

 

I believe step one should to get an Icicle Creek HR department in place - after the Mission Statement is agreed upon (allow six m months), then build an Icicle Specific corporate culture from there, as befits a World Class Climbing Area.

 

Inviting the feds to manage anything is like asking a elephant to till your container garden. Good luck with that, my brothers!

 

I await next week's installment of Icicle Outrage!!!! .

 

 

Edited by tvashtarkatena
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(UPDATE): Here is a rough translation of the final part of my conversation with the group leader - "The marking chalk was a mistake. We didn't think it through. The plan was to clean it up the same day but we postponed it to the weekend. Even though the paint has been partially cleaned off, we will return this weekend to see if we can clean up anything else and make sure everything is in order. Once again, we apologize for the mistake and we will work to avoid repeating it in the future".

 

Here's a another rough translation:

Spasibo za ponimaniye nashey ozabochennosti dlya otkrytom vozdukhe.

I've probably had to much vodka. Cheers! :brew:

 

p.s. For speed climbing - try the Marymoor Rock Spire in Redmond, near the Velodrome. No chalk paint please - just tape!

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