first ascent [TR] North Hozomeen Mtn - Zorro Face, IV 5.9 8/31/2013

[powderhound]

Baller guys, just getting the needful done. PROUD.

 

Bryan Schmitz

[Choada_Boy]

Fuckin' A!!!!!!

[Wallstein]

Nice job guys! I had thought about making that walk at some point to check that thing out. And now I don't have to. Thanks!

 

 

[stamati]

Excellent work! This is definitely a big deal, so congrats. I feel inspired by your effort; thank you!

[lunger]

Thanks for all the generous comments; good to hear the enthusiasm from fellow players of this sport we value so deeply. The gratification lingers, as does the fatigue.

 

To the original reason for posting. Somehow I missed this post : (http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1111466) Entertaining tale, thanks John. Thought worthwhile to link these two.

 

And for the record, the first pic in the TR was also taken by Mr Scurlock; sorry missed adding the credit there (though certainly many already knew this). Hozo sure looks good from afar...

 

Also wanted to add that the rock was surprisingly textured and well-featured for climbing, and very enjoyable where solid; don't want to dissuade repeats! Those of you who like exercising your risk-management skills will love this one.

 

C'mon, someone please repeat this or After Hours on Lemolo Mox (waaaah), which by comparison offers plenty of protection.

 

 

[JasonG]

Those of you who like exercising your risk-management skills will love this one.

 

I can see the genesis for a hard-man guidebook with this as the central theme for route selection. "Cascade Sphincter Select"?

[olyclimber]

This has to be the TR of 2013.

[olyclimber]

Eric and Rat are our reigning choss emperors.  Felt like to me this was the crown climb for this site for some reason. There are some great TRs,  many perhaps more technically difficult, but this was one...for those that value virgin exploration in desolate and beautiful places, that felt different. Imagine what Kerouac would have thought if he had read this TR. Have we seen anything close to it since? Will we again?  For this community as it is or was, which has faded in number and gotten older, perhaps not.  Will someone prove me wrong? Kerouac’s Void has been climbed, and I’m glad it was Eric and Rat that did it, because that meant we got Eric’s words here, with his literary gifts,  encrusted with understated sandbaggery.  I would not blame them at all if they both just chose Squamish henceforth. And yes there is still more that can be done I suppose in the world of choss grovelry, and plenty of things that have been done that deserve many repeats and the story of those repeats can hopefully be told, whether it is here or where ever stories are getting shared these days. But the days of exploring virgin territory like this...what of any significance is left?  Can you share a picture of it? 

and thanks @lunger and @rat you crazy fuckers, hope you are well.

[JasonG]

On 9/2/2013 at 9:22 PM, lunger said:

I’d like to forget pitch 6.

Hahahaha.  Thanks for the bump @olyclimber, and thanks to @rat and @lunger for doing what nobody else seems able to do, and surviving to write about it!

[Marko]

Thanks for percolating this one to the top.

[JayB]

14 hours ago, olyclimber said:

Eric and Rat are our reigning choss emperors.  Felt like to me this was the crown climb for this site for some reason. There are some great TRs,  many perhaps more technically difficult, but this was one...for those that value virgin exploration in desolate and beautiful places, felt different. Imagine what Kerouac would have thought if he had read this TR. Have we seen anything close to it since? Will we again?  For this community as it is or was, which has faded in number and gotten older, perhaps not.  Will someone prove me wrong? Kerouac’s Void has been climbed, and I’m glad it was Eric and Rat that did it, because that meant we got Eric’s words here, with his literary gifts,  encrusted with understated sandbaggery.  I would not blame them at all if they both just chose Squamish henceforth. And yes there is still more that can be done I suppose in the world of choss grovelry, and plenty of things that have been done that deserve many repeats and the story of those repeats can hopefully be told, whether it is here or where ever stories are getting shared these days. But the days of exploring virgin territory like this...what of any significance is left?  Can you share a picture of it? 

and thanks @lunger and @rat you crazy fuckers, hope you are well.

If that's the case it'd be a hell of a capstone to put on another Golden Age of Cascades Mountaineering that this site helped kick off. 

[olyclimber]

 

[olyclimber]

Of course there has to be some unexplored stuff out there, even if it isn't a summit.  Maybe a Snow Creek Wall, buried behind a 2 day approach. 

[rat]

 

On 2/22/2021 at 12:26 AM, olyclimber said:

Eric and Rat are our reigning choss emperors.  Felt like to me this was the crown climb for this site for some reason. There are some great TRs,  many perhaps more technically difficult, but this was one...for those that value virgin exploration in desolate and beautiful places, that felt different. Imagine what Kerouac would have thought if he had read this TR. Have we seen anything close to it since? Will we again?  For this community as it is or was, which has faded in number and gotten older, perhaps not.  Will someone prove me wrong? Kerouac’s Void has been climbed, and I’m glad it was Eric and Rat that did it, because that meant we got Eric’s words here, with his literary gifts,  encrusted with understated sandbaggery.  I would not blame them at all if they both just chose Squamish henceforth. And yes there is still more that can be done I suppose in the world of choss grovelry, and plenty of things that have been done that deserve many repeats and the story of those repeats can hopefully be told, whether it is here or where ever stories are getting shared these days. But the days of exploring virgin territory like this...what of any significance is left?  Can you share a picture of it? 

and thanks @lunger and @rat you crazy fuckers, hope you are well.

overly kind words for the likes of us..... been trying to be responsible during these plague times but hoping for a better summer for all.

there is no shortage of choss in the cascades though i agree with eric that lemolo needs a repeat (or another line). it's on par with bear mtn.'s dnb but more committing.

Edited March 7, 2021 by rat

[Off_White]

Feeling curious to read the "After Hours" TR on Lemolo again, I did a search in the TR section. Oddly, the link connected to some old 2008 political thread in Spray; interesting to see posts of so many old regulars, but not what I was looking for. Tracked it down by other means, so here's the link for others who are curious. I think the assessment of this as a more "fun" route than the Zorro Face is probably correct.  Lemolo FA TR

 

[spionin]

Since @rat's wife and I are doing girl-core skiing thing in a few days, had to revisit the forum and of course ran into this!

Still can't quit oly's "understated sandbaggery". omg. not my fault!

Some day, perhaps when I'm closer to my 50s like some REAL climbers, I'll get back to ice and choss! cheersies!

Edited March 3, 2022 by spionin

[olyclimber]

That was a moment of flowery prose, wasn't it! LOL.  But I do mean every word.  So cool that those guys chose this place to report it. Appreciate it.

[JasonG]

On 9/2/2013 at 9:22 PM, lunger said:

Kerouac again: “And I will die, and you will die, and we all will die, and even the stars will fade out one after another in time.” But we won’t die on Hozomeen. Hopefully not in Squamish either. But I will climb again at the latter.

Pure TR gold. Start to finish.