Bob_Clarke Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 The comment about Exasperator brings to mind a question. What is the best moderate crack pitch in the PNW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 How moderate? I like both pitches of Princely Ambitions, but they aren't "purely" crack climbing. Any one of the upper pitches on Outer Space. Godzilla? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 What does moderate mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted December 3, 2002 Author Share Posted December 3, 2002 Moderate = 5.11a and under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 Klahanie Crack is pretty good, hands, hands, hands, hands, hands, hands, hands, hands, then chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 Ok I can't reduce this list to one but excluding exasperator: Penny Lane Squamish 5.8/9 Arrowroot Squamish 5.9 Thin Fingers Index 5.11a Godzilla 5.9 Index Sometimes A Great Notion Leavenworth 5.10c Apron Jam (Wild Traverse) Leavenworth 5.9 Blown Out Beacon Rock 5.10a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 I agree with ya Peter on Blownout but penny lane is not on my top list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Make that ZebraZion at Smith. There usually isn't much traffic once you get off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Is there 'one' best? Index: Breakfast of Champs-perfect hands (for me) Toxic Shock (ditto) Heart of the Country-pitch 3 Davis-Holland-2nd pitch Battered Sandwich Jap Gardens-1st short pitch Leavenworth: Bo Derek-wild Outer Space-5th pitch Givler's-2nd pitch Deb's Crack-fingers to fist Psychopath variation on Iconoclast blahblahblah... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 (edited) Nobody's yet mentioned Sloe Children, Rattletale p2, Apron Strings, and dun dun DUN... Air Guitar Edited to add: Damnation at Castle Rock Edited December 4, 2002 by chucK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Duh!!! The split pillar at Squamish. or the 5th pitch of Freeway full 50meters of perfect 11a. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwills Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 gendarme on the n ridge of stuart - especially the 2nd crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted December 4, 2002 Author Share Posted December 4, 2002 I'd have to agree with The Split Pillar - Le Pillar de touche Here are a few others to mull over -The 3rd, 4th, or 5th pitch of Deidre -The 5th pitch of Chianti Spire -The 6th pitch of Dreamer -The 3rd pitch of White Satin -The "Pressure Chamber" pitch of Hyperspace -Pipeline (enough said) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Of the pitches listed here that I have done, I agree that all of them are excellent. I think Sloe Children is particularly so because it is continuously steep and challenging but there are plenty of stances where one can shake out and place pro, and it finishes with that wild lunge for a rounded knob. But moderate? You may be a good climber, Ropegun, but I don't think 5.11a crack climbing can properly be called "moderate." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 What's funny is the diversity. If people were to state the reasoning behind their choices it would be interesting. I agree with Mattp that most of the routes here are great but some I actually thought were mediocre. I once recomended a route to someone and when they saw me the next time they were convinced I mislead them on purpose. I didn't. Here is an add: Rutabaga 5.11a/.10d Squamish Reasoning: Climbing makes you think. Crack changes during the route. Crux move made with pro close by but not above you. Not just a simple grab and go crack. Nice stances to ponder the moves above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Wouldn't really consider Damnation to be a "crack" climb, even though it is one of my favorites. My thoughts... The 3rd pitch of Rock On and the 2nd/3rd pitches of Classic Crack in Squamish The 3rd pitch of the West Buttress on Exfoliation Dome in Darrington Classic Crack in Leavenworth Sensimalia in Vantage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted December 4, 2002 Author Share Posted December 4, 2002 Stating the reasoning behind the choices is a good idea. *The 3rd, 4th, or 5th pitch of Deidre - Some of the best sustained laybacking for a 5.7 *The 5th pitch of Chianti Spire - This pitch has is all, steep solid hand jambs - off hands - finger locks - and wild fists to off width pumping jams. *The 6th pitch of Dreamer - good variety of layback movements - bold committing movements - good footwork rewards the climber *The 3rd pitch of White Satin - Surprising gem of a pitch at Smith, awesome hand jambs with good pro - exciting finish *The "Pressure Chamber" pitch of Hyperspace - BODY TENSION *Pipeline (enough said) - well, enough said *Paper Tiger - Another Smith Rock old skool classic - solid rock - good pro - bring your "A" game or don't bother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 I suppose I would have to agree with you, PP, that some of those listed may be less than one of "the best." Toxic Shock, for example, is good enough, but the only reason it is popular is that it is one of few truly "moderate" climbs at Index. If it were 5.11a, for example, I doubt anybody would walk all the way up there for a climb that is frequently wet at the start, is discontinuous, has that usually slimy step-accross, and really only has two fifteen foot sections of the "crack" climbing that the climb is known for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 I thought about Toxic Shock a little bit before adding it to my list. The reason I did is it gives me that feeling you get when you sink a particularly comfortable jam and you get that oddly relaxed, fuzzy feeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 RE: I thought about Toxic Shock a little bit before adding it to my list. The reason I did is it gives me that feeling you get when you sink a particularly comfortable jam and you get that oddly relaxed, fuzzy feeling. Toxic Schock is a fine route. The jams are good and I agree with Scottp. It's not such a far walk and the rock may be wet but so are a lot of climbs when it is wet. I don't believe it removes any of the fun parts if it is dry. Plus it is popular but easier to access due to less crowding than say Zilla or other mentioned routes. Some other pitches I like are - Short strenuous crack on the Monument First headwall pitch of Beckey - Davis route on Prusik Step over crack on Flame - Apron Wildcat Crack - too hard for me to lead but nice Ditto to Sinsemilla Lightning Crack at Peshastin - good training for desert climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 "the 2nd/3rd pitches of Classic Crack in Squamish" where's this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 Split pillar - Squamish is my fave so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 the Sword of Damocles is better than the pillar itself, IMO. It's been awhile since I've been to Squamish, but I can't recall one bad route there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 I like Meatgrinder at LW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted December 4, 2002 Share Posted December 4, 2002 I'm surpised no one has mentioned this one yet, but IMHO, it's your Mom. Awesome hand jams... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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