Who Climbed What This Weekend?

[michaeljosephnozel]

Exasperator--quite possibly the finest 10c pitch I've ever done. (And the first pitch is no pushover).

A question: how many of you have ever found Sunblessed. I tried; failed miserably. Don't even know if I was within a stone's throw, or hours away. Talked to some locals who said, "It's spectacular. . . if you can find it. . . ." Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret?

On a separate, but related note, is the consumption of ganga higher at Squamish than anywhere else? I do not personally imbibe, but respect other's decision to do so. But, good lord, I saw ganga being consumed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Never have seen the likes of the Squamish consumption at other crags. Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret?

[Uncle_Tricky]

Had a good day in Skaha, and only climbed a couple sport routes the whole time. Was impressed with the number of quality gear and mixed climbs. Among those that stood out were grassy glades, mrs. palmer, double exposure, storming the ramparts, primal dream.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by michaeljosephnozel:

Exasperator--quite possibly the finest 10c pitch I've ever done. (And the first pitch is no pushover).

A question: how many of you have ever found Sunblessed. I tried; failed miserably. Don't even know if I was within a stone's throw, or hours away. Talked to some locals who said, "It's spectacular. . . if you can find it. . . ." Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret?

On a separate, but related note, is the consumption of ganga higher at Squamish than anywhere else? I do not personally imbibe, but respect other's decision to do so. But, good lord, I saw ganga being consumed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Never have seen the likes of the Squamish consumption at other crags. Dru, what's the situation? Is it a Canadian secret?

---

Yeah you have to have hooted 3 bowls of ganja to find it. the guidebpook cover is a photo-mosaic of a crack at Lovers Leap with a background of Squamish landscape.

Actually just go up the gully towards 3rd peak for 5 minutes past White Cliff, then take the obvious break out right. follow the trail from there. or hike to 3rd peak and down the slabs to the top and contour over to the ramp by Nicks Trick. same deal. how can you not find it?

 

 

[imorris]

Climbed Jefferson Park Glacier, Mt. Jefferson OR this weekend. We thought we might be asking for trouble this late in the year, but it turned out to be a great climb. The glacier is severely broken-up and the two bergshrunds are massive. Finding a line through took more work than usual. We were clouded in, making for some nice alpine ambience. Rolling thunder in the area kept us a little on edge. Climbable, but I'd prefer a Spring trip there.

-Iain

[rr666]

 

Climbed Davis-Holland and Lovin' Arms yesterday. What a great climb. Also, talk about surreal, throughout the climb we could usually only see a couple hundred feet, sometimes as little as fifty with all the fog. Only saw the town once from the wall. It was great, never too hot, and never too cold.

[michaeljosephnozel]

Dru, we made an honest effort to find the route, and spent a good deal of time searching, before we "pulled the plug" and climbed at Cirque of the Uncrackables.

That evening, and the following morning, we inquired to some locals and visitors about locating Sunblessed. The visitors told us that a few days earlier they had had the same experience that we did--failed to find it. The locals advised us to use a rain-day rather than a climbing-day to find it (but that it was a tremendous route).

Perhaps you and I will one day cross paths at Squamish, and you can assist my quest. I still would like to do the route. (Sounds like you have the beta).

And, hey, I would like to meet the guy who has over 1100 postings on this site, anyway.

[NoBolt]

My sweetie and I went to Leavenworth on Friday and climbed "The Regular Route". 95+ degrees. It was so damn hot the bugs and snakes weren't even out.

p.s. Has anyone heard how the climbing issues is turning out in Canada (Lower Malamute closure)?

[Dru]

It's still closed

CASBC is working on it. Maybe next spring, prospects are not so good in the short term future.

Until then lots more good rock at Squamish to explore.

[TimL]

Did the Grand Wall in Squamish on Saturday. The Split Pillar is so good. The Sword and Perry's lay back were really fun but felt soft for the grade. The climb is a must do classic for the area!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Nice work TimL! Wow that must have been fun! Did you go with Bruce!?

[terrible_ted]

N. face Mt. Buckner.

We turned around just above the second moat on top of Boston Glacier. It was really warm on Saturday night (the smoke from the Stehekin fires was a bit annoying) and for whatever reasons, we just weren't moving quickly enough. In fact, it was surprisingly hot all weekend.

I'm not experienced enough to say I can judge the actual route conditions from half mile away - either of the two North face routes may have been a go. My concern was the time we were looking at spending in getting across the Boston glacier. The high traverse looked pretty tough, and I was inclined to try to weave down the center.

Beautiful views, though. Maybe next time I'll try to recruit Dave to short rope me!

-t

[Bronco]

(chest beating) first lead on trad gear this weekend at Bozeman Pass in MT. Went to the crag and found to my dimay it was all bolted!! No guide books available at the climbing shop so we asked around at the crag looking for a 5.8 crack that I could bail off of on the bolts if I suffered an epic whilst attempting to place gear. No luck. All of the easy climbs were occupied. While touring the crag we watched in horror as a hot mamma top roped off of a quick draw attached to a single hanger about 40' off the deck. As she neared the draw she looked at us and asked "isn't the rope supposed to go a certain way through this thing?" I said "yeah it should go up and out like the opposite of how it is now, but...." I hold my breath as she calmly reached up and unclips the rope completely from her only pro and clips it back in correctly. "Like that?" she says "Uhhh Uhhh Uhhhh" I stammer. Next to us is a rasfta wannabe belaying his bro (who out weighs him by a good 40 lbs.) up a juggy bolted 5.8 and the bro is suffering mightily to get up this little overhanging section while we are all distracted by the actions of the hot mamma. All of a sudden, zip!! big bro takes what should have been a 10' whipper. Because rasfta man is not attending the belay - about 10' of rope zip through his atc and he is yanked into the air about 5' so - big bro ends up taking a 30 footer which conveniently stops about 6" above a large ledge. WOO-HOOO! Good stuff to watch and not participate in.

Anyway, we found a nice hand crack (no bolts)about 50' long that probably went at 5.7 placed some hexes and 1 cam, got to the top of the crack and realized NO PREINSTALLED RAP ANCHOR - DOH! But a nice big flake to tie a runner around and lower off (thank God!). Lesson learned - when climbing non established or un-documented routes, go prepared to improvise.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Bronco next time you go crack climbing let me know. We'll get you inline on some kewl shiznitz without waiting in lines then you can whipper as many times as you want without the audience

[Bronco]

I don't mind the audience, I accepted the fact a long time ago that I am a gomer and always will be. But, I will let you know next time I go. I made a rhyme!

[MtnHigh]

Friday night I climbed onto a bar stool side by side with my climbing partner in an attempt to drown the pain of lost love. It didn't work very well, I'm still hurting.

However, we stuck to our plans and climbed at Beacon on Saturday, hangovers included. It was a perfect day in the Gorge, sunny skies, warm rock, and clean routes.

 

[erik]

finally did centerfold with wallstein....good to know i still can almost climb .... but that is still almost....

pr maybe that was two weeks ago????

anyways it was a real fun route. and the sportie' nolts were quite the intoxicating touch of nauseum.

good night

 

[miker]

Led a gorgeous trad 5.8-9 in El Dorado canyon just outside of Boulder Colorado.

Some of the most excellent rock I have ever been on and the people were excellent. Must have been 30 people in sight and nobody waiting in any lines. Could spend a month up there and still not do everything.

Have got to go back.

see ya'll this weekend if not before.

miker

[ruddersbox]

I climbed to the end of the world at Delaveaga disc golf course at santa Cruz after a great game... Gordon Biersch Marzen is the best... Castle Rock next weekend to finally do some climbing. Does any one the word for best alpine climbs to do for Thanksgiving???

------------------

I read somewhere that "the

mountains reserve their choicest gifts for those who stand upon their summits".

[sexual_chocolate]

"There were FIVE parties on it (and we were the first - poor other guys, I don't climb so fast . . .)"

He goes to the left, he goes to the right,

if he went straight, ....

You're never gonna get your shower, dear fella!

Climbed 12-Gauge IQ at the Rhythm-n-Blues cliff. Almost puked, but got it. Brill climb! That was it for that day, as darkness and mosquitos descended upon us.

Where's Coach, where's Coach?

[nolanr]

I know, I know, they're just 3rd/4th class scrambles, but due to the awesome scenery worth the while. Did Golden Horn on Sat. and Mt. Hardy on Sun. Kinda weird looking down at the Matchbox sized cars whizzing by below me from Hardy.