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Everything posted by terrible_ted

  1. [TR] The Tooth - S Face 10/13/2013

    Good thinking. We went up on Wednesday - postholing all the way up to the pass, a little more snow on the route. -t
  2. Climbing accident on Rainier?

    Hi: I haven't posted here for quite a few years, but I just got a pretty disturbing phone call, involving a former co-worker. Does anyone know of a serious accident on Rainier, possibly involving a fatality, within the last day? I can't find any media coverage (not that that's a bad thing...) but the news came from someone very credible, although not a member of the climbing community. Thanks, -t
  3. Climbing accident on Rainier?

    It appears that bad news travels fast, indeed. I am very sorry to hear this. Goodbye, Lee. You had a huge character that touched many people. Your boundless energy will be sorely missed. -t
  4. Sad news coming

    Hi: Levi Pulkkinen, a reporter for the Seattle PI, is doing a follow-up story on the accident on Denali. He would like to speak with people that knew Mizuki, so that her life is well-represented in the article. In particular, he was hoping to find out if there was any sort of memorial fund set up on Mizuki's behalf. Here is his contact information. You'll need to get on this immediately, as the story will go to press within the next day or so. Levi Pulkkinen reporter, Seattle Post-Intelligencer 206.448.8348 levipulkkinen@seattlepi.com -t
  5. tying two ropes for a rap

    OMG! you're rapping off a non-locking biner!! belt and suspenders, man.... belt and suspenders What, only one sling? Not only that, but look at the tiny little shrub it's looped around...
  6. Mosquito Sonic doo-dads

    Chicken bone remedies are one thing, but if you don't want to dissolve your gear slathering DEET on it, you might look into finding a Picaridin-containing repellant. You have to go to Europe or Australia to get the more effective 20% formulations, whereas Cutter Advanced (Autan) sells a 10% product domestically. There's copious valid literature out there showing the effectiveness of DEET and Picaridin (Icaridin) against mosquitoes, black flies and even (for Picaridin) ticks. My wife has friends bring back 20% Pic. as she finds it so much more effective. -t recent article on Picaridin
  7. [TR] Mixup- East Face 7/22/2006

    Nice TR, Tom. For the record, the Mountaineers has a description of Mixup in their list of climbs, but it's very rarely led (i.e. one attempt every 3 - 4 years). I thought the "staircase" looked like one of those Mayan temples, myself... very cool! I wish more people would climb it - maybe they'd knock a bit more of the copious loose rock off the lower route... We made an earlier season approach a few years ago (2002?) and were able to climb up the moat on the right side of the notch. The notch was definitely the crux of the climb. -t
  8. Old Stoppers - Chouinard

    Hi Blake: I recall reading that one of the first pitons used in the North Cascades - and probably America for that matter - was by Wolf Bauer on Mt. Goode. Because it was used on rappel(?), it would be the first piece of booty gear ever left up there! I don't recall if it was the SW couloir or the Bedayn, but probably worth poking around for... I'll bet Lowell or one of the other eminent scholars that frequent this board could fill in the details. -t
  9. Cat friendly house in PDX&Chemist Jobs

    If there were any decent legal chemistry jobs in P-town I'd be living there myself. Outside of the schools, she could try here: Lacamas or patrol here: Oregon biotech She'll note that most of the pharma-type chem jobs advertised in Oregon are actually in Washington. Most schools don't specify the nature of the undergraduate chemistry degrees they award - with that in mind, she might find work in the coatings, polymers or even pulp & paper business. That could expand a her search into places like Parker Paint, Precision Castparts or even Ft. James. Who knows? If she could line up a decent job and a decent place to live, maybe she could find herself a decent boyfriend... -t
  10. Over 9000' Peaks

    Might as well orient yourself with the "historical" efforts at this: What the hell is prominence anyways? Washington highest Have fun... -t
  11. Binoculars?

    http://www.eagleoptics.com Their "buying guide" pages probably have more than you want to know about optics. I've made very significant high-end optics purchases with them and been quite happy with the experience. Be especially wary of NY/NJ area on-line photo stores that offer great deals (B&H excepted)... I think these would suit you well: cutting edge optics -t
  12. Kayland M11 boots

    Hi: I spent the last week up in the Lake Louise/Banff/Canmore area, and a few days of temps down to -40 (pick your scale) drove us to the base of some CL 6 gear shops (Credit Limit 6). Armed with a handful of LostVisas, MasterCard stubbies and a cash hammer, we scaled the fearsome heights of Banff and Canmore's heavily picked-out shops, hoping for some deals. Mountain Magic in Banff had the Kayland M11's on closeout for $339 Can. I wasn't familiar w/Kayland, and in fact, I was kind of holding out for Asolo's "Cholatse" boots, which are due to be released late March (nice timing ), after trying them at Ouray this year. I find that I just cannot make my feet abide by La Sportiva's skinny-ass toe deck. I wanted new boots that were lightweight, waterproof(able), stiff enough for ice and flexible enough to wear on approach. The M11's seemed to be pretty comparable to the Cholatse in general build, and they fit pretty well, so I went for it. The Kaylands delivered. I hiked in through sometimes deep snow at -15 F using them with 2 pairs of socks and my feet stayed warm. I climbed WI4 @ -5 F using 1 pair of socks and toe warmers without a problem. I submerged them up to the ankle over a half dozen times on a sloppy, slushy stream approach and my socks stayed dry. My BD Bionics grip them well, although the front bail needs to be molded to accomodate the narrower profile of the Kayland boot. I can't say anything about the long-term durability, but the Kaylands have met my immediate needs well. I still have a little heel slip, which I'm hoping a molded insert will eliminate. I have very narrow heels and have yet to find another boot that matches my duck shaped feet (wide toe deck, narrow heels) better. My pair (US 10.5) weighs 4#, 6oz (1984g) for the pair, including the laces and the stock insert. I'm putting this up here because I haven't seen a lot of info about Kayland here in Washington. Best regards, -t
  13. Rope-Solo in the Alpine?

    Solo ass-cam?
  14. NOVA Denali show coming up

    Yeah, I was wondering about the same sort of thing. Like most climbers, I find myself trying to reach some degree of homeostasis by modulating my layers, breathing and movement rate. I spend a lot of time hiking with my hat or gloves in my hands, putting them on or taking them off as I get warmer or colder without having to change my pace. I like zippered shirts for the same reason: adjustments on the fly. It's one thing to blow hot and cold on short days, but when you're looking at one of those 12+ hour pushes, it seems critical to keep things stable. I was amazed to see that 8 F° swing in the astronaut's core temp. over less than a minute! I wonder if he was all lathered in a sweat... maybe some armchair engineer can come up with a flux value (Jules/m2) for the rate at which heat was blowing through his skin? -t
  15. NOVA Denali show coming up

    I liked the Denali show. The implication that core temp. variation could be more predictive of performance than the actual temp. is particularly intriguing. I thought the K2 show was pretty, but weak... Was that the theme?? They failed to place the "K2 women" climbing fatality rate in the context of "K2 men." A sample size of five is pretty unreliable, unless you're taking the mystic fate approach. Obviously, one of the five women was underexperienced. How does that compare to the ratio of inexperienced men that attempt K2? How many men vs. women have turned back? How many of them are dead? The bottom line is that their thesis was boring: 10% of the successful ascents of K2 were represented by women and none of them are currently alive. BFD. The complaint about women disrupting the "party dynamic" for the men seemed pretty lame. It says more to me about the social instability of those particular men... Couldn't be the same group that ignored Beckey, eh??? -t
  16. Cool new shit I learned©

    I quit posting on FW back when they start registering everyone, and besides, explaining to a bunch of rednecks why they shouldn't be playing with K2Cr2O7 as a dyestuff and explaining that rash they get from lacewood gets a bit old after a while... Nonetheless, I can't help but wonder... "Small" and "Entertainment Center" usually don't go together... I can handcut a dovetailed joint reasonably quickly (a pro should be able to make money figuring a job at 1 hour per joint minus 15 minutes per repeat, and I'm a hair slower than that), but I save it for drawers or ornamental pieces. You'll get might sick of chopping and sharpening if you're joining a wide board... A nice jig to consider was described in "methods of work" about a year or two back. It described a dovetail-guiding jig that relied on a rare earth magnet to hold the saw plumb. They had to print a retraction a couple of issues later when Veritas complained that they had previously patented the idea and were marketing a manufactured version of the same thing. dovetail guide It's an addictive hobby - I'll be in for almost 200 labor hours by the time this guy is finished... 8 drawers, all dovetailed to curved bowfronts will eat most of that time. lower carcase -t
  17. Need Costa Rica Beta

    Hi all: Treetoad is right: they'll definitely give your car the once, twice, three-times over when you bring it back. They spent about 40 minutes checking my rig out (which was missing a side view mirror from a sideswiping bus and had mud under the hood from an inadvertant deep river crossing...) - I especially liked it when he double checked the glovebox to make sure the light still worked. I knew that I was fucked, otherwise it's worth it to get the car washed right before you bring it back. We spent a few days at Arenal up at the Observatory. I think rooms 21 and 22 have the unobstructed view of the volcano - it's well worth getting these. If you're headed up there (it's the best spot to watch an active volcano from bed, plus you can hike up to the lava flows) let me know and I'll try to dig it out of my records. We then (following the inadvertant river crossing) dropped our rig off and rode horseback over the cordillera before reclaiming our rig and driving to Monteverde. We just cut a deal with some locals to do this - we didn't need to schedule/plan/pre-arrange... Travel times up to Monteverde were EXTREMELY slow due to the conditions of the road (20 mph feels like you're flying). We had a local guide in Monteverde (Alex Villegas) because we were there birding, but in addition to the 100+ additions to my birding life list we got a lot of insects, reptiles and mammalian sightings. Getting a local guide is very much worth the time and money - a good guide can get you to the best places while avoiding the tour bus crowds. We drove up to the north and spent a few days at Sugar Beach (http://www.sugar-beach.com/), which was very laid back. We basically had an entire cove to ourselves, with only 2 or 3 other couples. Snorkeling was nice, the rooms were big, the food was good and the drinks were strong. All the big north end resorts are separated from Sugar Beach - which was exactly what we wanted. Not a good choice for surfing, however. We spent one night at in Guanacasta, but the timing (late November) was bad for bugs. I can't tell you how bad the bugs were... it was like being on another planet... There's usually a period of two or three weeks at the end of the wet season, when things first start to get really warm, that just kicks the insects into overdrive. We left after the first night, although we did take a half day raft trip with a couple of kids to see some vultures and owls. We spent a day at a B&B/coffee plantation outside of SanJose, but I'd have a tough time recommending it, although we did manage to inadvertantly order cooked iguana at the local bar. And, yes, it did taste like chicken. What I would recommend is looking into flights via the north end (Liberia) airport. San Jose has little to recommend it, unless you're looking for the Latin American urban experience - ferocious free-style traffic (like Boston, but without the rules...), seedy bars, shopping, etc... You had to fly into San Jose back in '98, but I believe Liberia has been built up since then. Have fun, and say hi to the dickheads in Texas customs that took half of my cigars...
  18. Simond Piranhas?

    Now that we've established they're worth a hundred bucks... anyone want to buy mine? I might be willing to go 90, after sawing the head of the adze off of one of the tools(the other is a hammer) and replacing its broken sex nut (chicago nut, post nut, etc...) with a 0.5" bolt/locknut. PM if interested, and I'll send you pix. -t
  19. Injury report(saved by a black diamond catalog)

    Good thing you weren't relying on an REI flyer...
  20. North Cascades Climbing Accident

    Please forgive the cross-posting, as I put these shots on the Mountaineers website as well. John Augenstein on This House of Sky (Banff, CA) February 2005. -t
  21. Route most likely to end in unexpected bivy

    ...and most of the rest talked about the beautiful sunset. We had both. -t
  22. Muir snowfield

    I have twice had to help members of my party that had succumbed to early stage hypothermia. It is astonishing how rapidly someone can go from fully functioning to useless. In one case, we had been digging a snow cave for quite awhile. After the digging and hauling was over, I finished plugging the entrance and setting up a cooking area, while my soaking wet partner went into the cave to lay out her sleeping bag and change clothes. I went into the cave about 15 - 20 minutes later and found her sitting on her sleeping bag trying to untie her bootlaces to no avail. She was shivering uncontrollably and largely unable to manipulate her digits. She had no sense of time. I had to strip her, pull the sleeping bag around her and, after warming her up for a while (please spare me the bullshit...), help her to drink and eat warm food. It was hours before she was back to normal. This was all under pretty controlled circumstances on relatively benign winter day. I have no difficulty imagining the results of that sort of incident through a howling mountain storm... -t
  23. Running pro for teams of 3 or more

    SMR plucked a pair of bodies out of the Triple Couloirs route a few years back. The cause was determined to be a follower fall followed by the leader's ice tool anchor belay failure. I find that images like that are a nice way to help remember to save your last screws for an anchor. Using them to back up a screw is a different matter, although it's probably unlikely to have anything other than psychological value... -t
  24. Running pro for teams of 3 or more

    FWIW, I'll bet if you contacted a dozen ice tool manufacturers and a dozen rescue organizations you'd get two dozen recommendations not to use your tools for anchors. -t
  25. PI Article About John Roper

    I'm reminded of Roper talking about one of the eastern Washington county high points... "I asked the farmer if it would be okay for us to go out after he finished plowing the summit!"