Via ferrata ethics

[NoBolts]

I've always loves opening up mountain access to the masses, and I think there is only one real way to do it safely. Via ferrata. However, would I have to follow the same rules as bolting to establish new routes in the Cascades? More importantly, I want to make it so anyone can ascend the classic routes. Would anyone be opposed to seeing fixed cables and ladders on routes?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Follow the same rules as used to excavate rock to build tombs for the Pharoahs.

 

[NoBolts]

I can't tell if that is some sort of Portland joke or if you are serious.

[wfinley]

As long as you put in some of those cool steps I'm fine with it!

 

[NoBolts]

I was going to just chisel steps in the rock. Using excess metal for steps is so bad for the environment. It's all about conservation.

[ivan]

pm raindawg for a succinct guide, complete w/ pictures

[billcoe]

Hey all

 

To start off I wanted to tell you a bit about my climbing resume. I am an East Coast trad climber with limited experience, and you will never spot me clipping a bolt. I've redpointed tons of routes in the gym, and people seem to really like my enthusiasm for the climbing culture when I yell beta like "Let's go! and Venga!".

 

Ok, so back to why I am really here. I am currently sitting at my desk with 2 broken ankles because I took a 40ft whipper when usin my BD nut tool as a sky hook. I ran out of protection at the crux sequence and had to aid through a very technical 5.9+ section while bypassing three bolts. The improvised sky hook worked well until I tried to use it in a "stein pull" placement, and it surprisingly fractured, leading to my fall.

 

BD has been unresponsive to my requests for them to pay for my medical treatment, even though it was an obvious result of gear failure. What do you guys think?

 

Minimally better. I think you still need work on these trolls. Google "Jeff Batten" if you want to learn from the (late) master.

 

Really.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I was going to just chisel steps in the rock. Using excess metal for steps is so bad for the environment. It's all about conservation.

 

Now you are getting it. Use the tools of the Egyptians and be authentic while you are at raping the rock!

 

[NoBolts]

Rape is not something to joke about.

[AlpineK]

I was going to just chisel steps in the rock. Using excess metal for steps is so bad for the environment. It's all about conservation.

 

Now you are getting it. Use the tools of the Egyptians and be authentic while you are at raping the rock!

 

While your new routes don't require Yosemite Decimal System ratings they will require review by art critics. I hope your up to the challenge.

 

[img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/581628_453409434711018_1671507126_n.jpg[/img]

Edited September 12, 2012 by Feck

[rob]

I hope that greg guy comes along and writes a synopsis of everyone's statements, complete with little quotes an stuff.

 

[G-spotter]

IIRC there's already a via ferrata with little chipped steps and concrete enhancements on the snow lake trail, below prussik

[ivan]

IIRC there's already a via ferrata with little chipped steps and concrete enhancements on the snow lake trail, below prussik

that thing don't work right in the winter!

[Off_White]

IIRC there's already a via ferrata with little chipped steps and concrete enhancements on the snow lake trail, below prussik

 

Or the approach to the hut in the Bugaboos...

[G-spotter]

IIRC there's already a via ferrata with little chipped steps and concrete enhancements on the snow lake trail, below prussik

 

Or the approach to the hut in the Bugaboos...

 

Hell on the backside of the Chief

[Raindawg]

 

[ivan]

the only way that dude could look more eye-talian is if he had a scooter parked at the base or an espresso machine on his back

[Off_White]

I've gotta admit, that is pretty much the best via ferrata photo ever.

[ivan]

given the crazy close proximity of houses to what i assume is a substantial cliff face, ya gotta assume that even in the usa the location in question would be grid-bolted to hold some sorta anti-rockfall contraption in place, so....fucksake's, why NOT put a kewl little sidewalk up the side of it to boot? 'specially when you might need to scale the thing in a fuck-all hurry w/ a musket strapped to yer back to fend off the goddamn papists?

[ivan]

the only way that dude could look more eye-talian is if he had a scooter parked at the base or an espresso machine on his back

a picture this cc.retard famous must have a curious provenance as well - could it be from the days when the good doctor dabbled on some sorta euro-darkside? who IS that man? what EXACTLY is he so fucking jazzed about?

[Off_White]

Well, you made me look. It's pretty clearly this route: http://www.glocals.com/things-to-do/geneva/30118.htm "La Roche à l’Agathe / Thônes" and apparently it's "Famed for being the most difficult Via Ferrata in the lake Annecy area (in the Haute-Savoie region in the French Alps)" Lotsa pics on the web, but I didn't turn up any more of our excitable boy.

[ivan]

Well, you made me look. It's pretty clearly this route: http://www.glocals.com/things-to-do/geneva/30118.htm "La Roche à l’Agathe / Thônes" and apparently it's "Famed for being the most difficult Via Ferrata in the lake Annecy area (in the Haute-Savoie region in the French Alps)" Lotsa pics on the web, but I didn't turn up any more of our excitable boy.

the good doctor's lover in an all-too brief experimentation w/ greco-roman studies?

[jared_j]

I always thought that Via Ferrata guy was the actor who played "Janitor" on the show "Scrubs"

 

[img:center]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4b/Janitor-scrubs.jpg/250px-Janitor-scrubs.jpg[/img]

[Raindawg]

What this fellow is pointing out, right at you!, is that what he's got going is just a more blatant form of sport-climbing: permanently-established convenience fixtures that appeal to the masses who prefer presumed safety and a short learning-curve rather than the "leave little trace" ethic practiced by most other outdoor pursuits. Ain't it ironic how so many sport-climbers probably object on environmental or aesthetic grounds to via ferratas....something not all that dissimilar to what they themselves perpetuate? Yah...I'm pretty sure that's the point he's making, but he probably won't subscribe to cc.com because he's unwilling to be ruthlessly attacked for having a minority opinion on this site.

[olyclimber]

Raindawg, have you seen the video showing the plain crashing into the Pentagon?