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Everything posted by NoBolts

  1. Via ferrata ethics

    I've always loves opening up mountain access to the masses, and I think there is only one real way to do it safely. Via ferrata. However, would I have to follow the same rules as bolting to establish new routes in the Cascades? More importantly, I want to make it so anyone can ascend the classic routes. Would anyone be opposed to seeing fixed cables and ladders on routes?
  2. Nice to see someone else from the Daks on Cascade Climbers!
  3. Via ferrata ethics

    Rape is not something to joke about.
  4. Via ferrata ethics

    I was going to just chisel steps in the rock. Using excess metal for steps is so bad for the environment. It's all about conservation.
  5. Via ferrata ethics

    I can't tell if that is some sort of Portland joke or if you are serious.
  6. BD Nut Tool

    Hey all To start off I wanted to tell you a bit about my climbing resume. I am an East Coast trad climber with limited experience, and you will never spot me clipping a bolt. I've redpointed tons of routes in the gym, and people seem to really like my enthusiasm for the climbing culture when I yell beta like "Let's go! and Venga!". Ok, so back to why I am really here. I am currently sitting at my desk with 2 broken ankles because I took a 40ft whipper when usin my BD nut tool as a sky hook. I ran out of protection at the crux sequence and had to aid through a very technical 5.9+ section while bypassing three bolts. The improvised sky hook worked well until I tried to use it in a "stein pull" placement, and it surprisingly fractured, leading to my fall. BD has been unresponsive to my requests for them to pay for my medical treatment, even though it was an obvious result of gear failure. What do you guys think?
  7. NoBolts Blog

    nobolts.blogspot.com Check it out.
  8. BD Nut Tool

    Do I hear a little bit of jealousy? I think so.
  9. BD Nut Tool

    Sorry for sounding ignorant, but not really sure what some of you mean by "trolling". Maybe its a West Coast thing...I'm not familiar with your climbing slang.
  10. BD Nut Tool

    For me, climbing is more than just following shiny bolts with a rack of quickdraws. My climbing "mentor" once told me to never be caught with a qd on my harness, alpine draws only. The first time I top-roped I didn't even pull on the bolts.
  11. BD Nut Tool

    I've been doing this ever since leaving the gym. The BD nut tools work very well in horizontal cracks at The Gunks, way better than the Metolius ones.