telemarker Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) Trip: Mt. Stuart - Girth Pillar via the Lower N. Ridge Date: 7/29/2012 Trip Report: All too often I find myself appraising the worthiness of a climb based on its individual pitches. The headwall crack on Outer space, the off width crack on Backbone, the amazing granite top-out splitter on the Burgner/Stanley Route on Prusik, to name just a select few. I get so focused on the specific details of climbs, the approach and descent go by without my even noticing sometimes. Every now and then, a climb comes along and shakes me out of that inertia. Such was the Girth Pillar route on Stuart. From the approach to the descent, it demands every bit of your attention. Sure, you look at the guidebook and see "best route in the Cascades" status due to the fine rock and cracks of the pillar itself. But those jewels have a significant price for admission, one that you keep paying long after you've made the final jam on that amazing pillar. Kyle Flick, Chris Martin and I decided to launch an old guy assault on the Girth Sunday. Kyle headed up early on Saturday, while Chris and I took a few laps on Castle Rock with my friend Tom. The approach was characterized by unusually clear blue skies with no signs of thunderstorms. Here's my favorite view. You know the one, not too far after the junction, that puts a smile on your face. Chris and I connected with Kyle at Mountaineers Basin, and prepared to do battle with the mosquitos, I mean, the Girth. For this assault, we decided to use the less suicidal approach by taking the 3rd class ramp Kevin Newell and Eric Wehrly used in 2007 to access the upper Ice Cliff Glacier, located about 6 pitches up the lower north ridge. I had a really good idea of where that ramp was, and my suspicion proved to be correct. No pesky downclimbing, and the terminus of the ramp allows you to merely step on the snow with no moat hopping trickery. Chris led the way up the glacier. Kyle headed out with the approach ramp behind him. I had never been on the Ice Cliff other than winter, and was more than a little surprised at the depth of some of the crevasses. In addition to the pillar being guarded by a constant calving icefall, but too it is surrounded by a mountain of loose blocks. Climbing up to the start is slow and careful for us, until voila! you find yourself below the first pitch. Again, we're surprised at just how vertical and sustained the climbing is. This stuff is hard on old people. Chris leading out on the fun but tricky first pitch, made harder by seepage in crucial spots. With brute force he gets to the tiny ledge. I'm relieved to be able to climb pitch one on top rope. And in case you're wondering, yes, the crampons are still hanging there. I draw the second pitch, supposedly the crux. Maybe it was partially due to the involved approach and mentally taxing loose blocks, but all three pitches felt cruxy to us. More than once I find myself looking wistfully over to the upper North Ridge, bathed in sunshine, wishing I was over there climbing easily towards the top. The finger crux is thankfully short, allowing me to ungracefully french free a couple moves. The rest is fun but sustained finger locks and hand jams. Kyle finishing the last few locks. I get voted to lead the third pitch. This one is THE pitch to draw, though you can't go wrong with all three! This is steep hands forever. Perfect hands. Outer Space on steroids. I had two #2 camalots, but wished I had four of them. The top-out on this pitch is terrifying, but I'll let you find out why when you climb it. We top out the pillar with edgy relief, knowing that we're way behind schedule, with an indeterminate amount of mid-5th class climbing to do to get off this north side. And oh yeah, there's that minor detail of descending the Sherpa Glacier, most likely in the dark since it's already 7pm. The stress and shell-shock was written on our faces. We finally breach the ridge to the south side and get that expansive view we've been deprived of all day. The light and surroundings lets us relax, but only for a little bit. Mt. Stuart's shadow pointing the way back home to Cashmere. And the final shot before we descend to our descent path down Sherpa. Checkout the billy goat snowpatch. We can't shake these things, even up on Stuart! Downclimbing in aluminum crampons and guide tennies is not something I would recommend as a killer fun outing. Even less so over a gaping crevasse at the bottom should you make a simple mistake, like slip or something. We're able to finagle a way across the schrund around the extreme climber's right side, using a double rope rappel. I'm sure that will get complicated real soon once the collapsed debris falls in completely. Chris forges the way through this, and the rest of the descent is a snow slog with the occasional scree plunge back down to the bivi boulders. It's 12:30am by the time we reach camp, brew up dinner, and collapse in the sacks. Would I do this climb again? Absolutely! If it were right off the side of the road. But then, it wouldn't be even remotely similar, and realistically, we did not climb it in the style of the original party. Our take-away, however is that Girth Pillar is THE total alpine package that taxed our resolve, and has been sweetly savored in retrospect. Edited July 31, 2012 by telemarker Quote
ryanl Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Awesome trip and write up John! When am I old enough to join you guys? I'm starting to feel old, if that'll help my chances.... Quote
spionin Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 wow, great report, AWESOME shots! love this one: can't wait for the end to my non-climbing season! Quote
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Great report. Agreed on that crevasse photo--spectacular! Quote
telemarker Posted July 31, 2012 Author Posted July 31, 2012 Thanks. We came upon that crevasse one at a time and had the same reaction: "Wow. That's kinda deep for the east side." I'm not entirely sure what the story is with those crampons. Ryan, I haven't known you to be grumpy and stubborn, so right there that disqualifies you from "old guy" status. Quote
Pete_H Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 An oldy but a goody. Nice job guys! I meant the climb, not the climbers! Quote
cfire Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Another great report John! You captured our feelings perfectly on a long day. Next time maybe I'll remember a camera to get some shots...probably not though.. Seeing John lead those top two pitches of the Pillar with a pack on was the most impressive leads I've seen in the mountains. An oldy but a goody. Nice job guys! I meant the climb, not the climbers! Right Pete, I know 'who' you were talking about. Quote
Schaef Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 We climbed the full ridge on Saturday. Saw some massive blocks falling onto the ice cliff glacier and heard even larger ones cleaving while we were on the gendarme. Sounded like a terrifying place to be. Glad you had a great/safe climb! Quote
John Frieh Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 Would I do this climb again? Absolutely! If it were right off the side of the road. But then, it wouldn't be even remotely similar, and realistically, we did not climb it in the style of the original party. Our take-away, however is that Girth Pillar is THE total alpine package that taxed our resolve, and has been sweetly savored in retrospect. Couldn't agree more. My first time up the pillar I did the drop over; the second time up the ice cliff. Such a great route. Nice work team Quote
Kyle_Flick Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 Thanks John. It's a climb, as you know, that I've wanted to do for awhile, and with strong climbing partners as Chris Martin and John Plotz you can't go wrong. For clarification, we got on the glacier lower than from the North Ridge notch that you've described in your TRs. Eric and Kevin's ramp from the lower ridge is a better approach and involves little to no raps and no moat issues. I don't suppose those crampons belonged to you or Craig? Quote
ryanl Posted August 1, 2012 Posted August 1, 2012 The stress and shell-shock was written on our faces. Been laughing at/admiring this photo and caption the last few days. Heck of a climb boys! Quote
John Frieh Posted August 2, 2012 Posted August 2, 2012 I don't suppose those crampons belonged to you or Craig? My crampons from my first trip up the pillar in 2004 with Ron Kirby. Colin and Jens climbed the pillar the following weekend; Colin originally grabbed the crampons but shortly into the pillar pitches realized why I had left them in the first place and promptly hung them on the nut where they still remain it appears. Quote
Rad Posted August 2, 2012 Posted August 2, 2012 Great TR. That ramp looks like the most reasonable approach this late in the season. I don't suppose those crampons belonged to you or Craig? My crampons from my first trip up the pillar in 2004 with Ron Kirby. Colin and Jens climbed the pillar the following weekend; Colin originally grabbed the crampons but shortly into the pillar pitches realized why I had left them in the first place and promptly hung them on the nut where they still remain it appears. What ever happened to the neutrino and windshirt? Quote
John Frieh Posted August 3, 2012 Posted August 3, 2012 What ever happened to the neutrino and windshirt? I still have the neutrino and nut it was clipped to; I found that on my first time up the pillar. It was Ade's who was previously a mod on here. I believe the windshirt was a seperate thread in which I made an ass of myself... not related to the girth pillar climbs. Quote
Rad Posted August 3, 2012 Posted August 3, 2012 Believe it or not I'm not trying to razz you. The crampons are classic though, you should write a TR from that trip and post it to enter one of these contests. Quote
John Frieh Posted August 3, 2012 Posted August 3, 2012 The crampons are classic though, you should write a TR from that trip and post it to enter one of these contests. It's the very first TR I ever wrote on cc.com though it doesn't mention me leaving the crampons. You can find it in the TR engine Quote
Jens Posted August 4, 2012 Posted August 4, 2012 I can't believe those things are still hanging there. Quote
alecapone Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 Hehe.. Kyle's expession is classic. Thanks for the great story John. Quote
telemarker Posted August 6, 2012 Author Posted August 6, 2012 Hehe.. Kyle's expession is classic. Thanks for the great story John. Thanks Scott. Rumor has it that you're projecting some of those hard cracks on Heather Ridge...Top secret? Like that unknown north facing couloir no one knows about? Quote
mountainsloth Posted August 22, 2012 Posted August 22, 2012 wild trip and well captured. One of the better reads this month. Thanks! Quote
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