shaoleung Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it... Quote
Crillz Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Sissy! More like 5.9b-. With the new bolts I'm going to up on that traverse this weekend it should be much more cruiser though. Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later. See you out there! Quote
telemarker Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Well, since you onsight 5.8, I guess it would feel 5.10 I think mentally it is hard to commit to that step-out, making the rest of the traverse feel harder than it actually is. Quote
Buckaroo Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Sissy! More like 5.9b-. With the new bolts I'm going to up on that traverse this weekend it should be much more cruiser though. Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later. See you out there! Trolling trolling trolling Quote
Buckaroo Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it... Its technical. Also there's a somewhat hidden foothold Quote
counterfeitfake Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Getting up to the traverse and stepping out is hard. The traverse is easier, especially if you have a long reach. It's as much sporty side-pulling as crack climbing. I vote: 5.9. 5.9 doesn't mean "easy", you know? The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me. Quote
shaoleung Posted June 30, 2012 Author Posted June 30, 2012 Word. I am being a sissy... I blame it on the ominous clouds that threatened to piss on us... plus I just need to man up and quit pulling on pints. Quote
shaoleung Posted June 30, 2012 Author Posted June 30, 2012 Yeah... did orbit a couple weeks ago. Much more sustained (though easier)... and much more fun in my opinion. Quote
keenwesh Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 the right hand start off two tree is better than that bullshit glassy lieback. I'm always sketched doing the traverse but that's because I'm a fat puss and big flexing flakes give me the willies. Quote
shaoleung Posted June 30, 2012 Author Posted June 30, 2012 Well said. I'm right there with you. The big flexing flakes agreed with me about as much as the spicy burrito I ate after the climb. Quote
ryanl Posted July 2, 2012 Posted July 2, 2012 Sissy! Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later. Sweet. I didn't know 5.9d existed. It sounds harder than 10a. Quote
RJRiha Posted July 2, 2012 Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) It felt 5.9 to me. No harder than Ski tracks, The Bone, Deception Crack, etc...Actually, I think it's easier than P1 of Canary or S. Face Jello Tower. The feet are excellent on that pitch. If you thought that was a sandbag, have you been to J-tree or the Gunks? Edited July 2, 2012 by malcolm777b Quote
DPS Posted July 2, 2012 Posted July 2, 2012 It felt 5.9 to me. No harder than Ski tracks, I agree that it is no harder than 5.9, but less secure than Ski Tracks with its sloping hortizontal crack and big exposure. Quote
shaoleung Posted July 3, 2012 Author Posted July 3, 2012 Sweet. I didn't know 5.9d existed. Only if you suck wind on 5.9 like me... Quote
shapp Posted July 3, 2012 Posted July 3, 2012 I didn't fall or hang on the traverse so it must be 5.9 or less, I fell on the step right off library ledge so it must be 5.10d Getting up to the traverse and stepping out is hard. The traverse is easier, especially if you have a long reach. It's as much sporty side-pulling as crack climbing. I vote: 5.9. 5.9 doesn't mean "easy", you know? The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me. Quote
selkirk Posted July 3, 2012 Posted July 3, 2012 Solid 5.8+ :fight: Heady/committing/greasy/technical 5.9 is about right. If you go into it with 5.10 footwork it's no problem and definitely 5.9 but it can't be muscled, must be finnessed. Also helps if you're flexible an can stretch to the good foothold Quote
laurel Posted July 3, 2012 Posted July 3, 2012 Word. I am being a sissy... I blame it on the ominous clouds that threatened to piss on us... plus I just need to man up and quit pulling on pints. The traverse is the best place to be on that route if it's raining. Quote
StreetBoss Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it... Lots of guys like you have cried like a school girl. Once you figure out the sequence....it's straight forward climbing. Quote
Quarryographer Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 5.9 is a fucked up grade anyway. It runs the gamut from stupid easy to downright desperate. I'd say it's somewhere in the middle with this one, not as hard as the last pitch of Lovin arms for me or Inca roads either... But still harder than some 9's in ltown. Quote
chirp Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 ...The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me. Totes! Quote
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