mhux Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hey there, I've done a bit of trad at smith (Lion's Jaw, Moonshine Dihedral, what have you) but I'd like to get into some more splitter cracks in the gorge...anyone have any suggestions/recommendations? I'm not the most experienced trad leader, so the easier the better, especially if there's some TR's to practice splitter technique. (Yes I know the gorge mostly has 10a and above) Lets hear it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 If you can lead moonshine, you can get up Cruel Sister (10A/B), which is quite possibly the best hand crack at Smith. Â I'm not sure about the TR...you may have to slog up it with some aid, and then TR. There are some easier ones, 7, 8, 9, down to the left past the catwalk, as well as a super cool offwidth...bring a 4, 5 and a big bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 ...you can TR Original Sin (10c) & the other 10c (on right) by leading Blitzkrieg (9) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Zebra/Zion, Sunshine die, Lion's Chair, Karate crack...not all 5.10 but some you can easily TR..others not. Fun stuff either way and must dos at Smith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 white satin and sky chimney on NE face smith rock group. A old school trad lines that face across from a world of sport clipping. You can almost feel the envy of the sport climbers who realize that you have huge balls for being over there. (even though it is 5.7) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 white satin and sky chimney on NE face smith rock group. A old school trad lines that face across from a world of sport clipping. You can almost feel the envy of the sport climbers who realize that you have huge balls for being over there. (even though it is 5.7) Â +1 for Sky Chimney..fun as hell and some great exposure out of the belay cave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwwakaranai Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Badfinger, Bloodclot, Cruel Sister, Gruff, Rim Job, Wildfire are all awesome 5.10 cracks. Quasar is also great but a little heady up top if thats your max grade. Just climb anything with 2 or more stars and you cant go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Badfinger  + 1.....probably the best finger crack in the state. IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 new testament is good too. It is rated 10a but it is mostly much easier (5.8) with a sting at the end. Could prolly pull a couple aid moves and squeek through it if you aren't a 5.10 leader. Â PLus you are doing trad right in the middle of sporto hell. Gotta luv that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldfinger Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Widow Maker! :: Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 +1 for cruel sister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 new testament is good too. It is rated 10a but it is mostly much easier (5.8) with a sting at the end. Could prolly pull a couple aid moves and squeek through it if you aren't a 5.10 leader. sounds exaaaactly like the experience i had on it this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 white satin and sky chimney on NE face smith rock group. A old school trad lines that face across from a world of sport clipping. You can almost feel the envy of the sport climbers who realize that you have huge balls for being over there. (even though it is 5.7) Â +1 for Sky Chimney..fun as hell and some great exposure out of the belay cave! the 2nd pitch of skyridge is wicked-fun trady goodness and made for a nice cool down (quite literally in the stiff breeze saturday night) after a bit of a beatdown on new testament Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 awesome recommendations everyone, I appreciate it! keep 'em coming, unless that's all the good trad at smith by the way, how much sun does the gorge get this time of year? I figure the shade is nice in summer, but a little chilly this time of year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Moscow was cool for the grade, 2nd pitch anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 we are on the leading edge of good Gorge season imho. Most summer days are generally too hot and greasy to climb down there unless you grab a climb first thing in the morn. That smooth basalt can be a little sketch with wet palms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan schrock Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Honestly the temps have been perfect for the lower gorge for most of the past couple months. I haven't been down there in a while, but the weird weather this year means that we are likely to see a pretty stinkin' good LG season from here on out. Who really knows with the wacky weather this year...but I'm starting to think this warm weather will just keep getting better. Â Good recommendations so far. Also look at North Point and the Student Wall if you want to acclimate to basalt before launching off on the sharp end. And look at the Shakespeare Wall for a couple more worthwhile climbs below 5.10. Â As stated, it's hard to go wrong in the LG. Especially if you stick to some of the well known classics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ConorB Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Marsupials are really fun. Delerium Tremens is amazing. kind of a short smith version of incredible hand crack in indian creek. Â super fun and paired with Thin Air (5.10a) on Koala, along with a solo of round river (5.4 no rappel needed) and a solo of South Buttress (5.5x) brogan spire, makes a great day. Â i believe this area gets great sun most of the day. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thin Air (5.10a) on Koala,  More like 5.8 IMO.....the first pitch at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Oh yeah, I forgot about zebra/zion...wow, that was so awesome last spring. Hearing all these classics has made me lonesome for some smiffy time. It's such a blast to be a trad climber and walk up to a crowded area like Bunny Face. Sportos on everything with waits on all the bolt routes. Unload the pack and gear up for the 3 empty trad lines there: Bookworm (5.9), Lycophydophyta (5.8) [do both pitches, awesome at top], and Lyco right. Â Back in the day, you had to climb trad at Smith, there were only a handful of bolt lines. All those trad lines are still there, waiting for some lovin'...oh, I've not heard anyone mention Fridays Jinx, and Pack Animal, second pitch is awesome 5.8 fingers, really spectacular lockers in an airy corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Just did Pack Animal a few weeks ago. Fun line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Pack Animal Pack Animal Direct :moondance: If you want to work on air time have a go at Calamity Jam! Â So much good trad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 zebra/zion  Best climb for the grade in the park. IMO...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRoth Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Ya Thin air is the shit. The beginning is nice if you stick the crack just. Then you can anchor out at the top, from there you can stitch the boulder shoulder towards the upper koala head wall (40' 5.1?). Then there are some burly old anchors that could an Abrams tank. from there its another pitch of sport... gnarliest start. first bolt is above the overhanging arete, hanging over jagged boulders and the belayer. I blew out my toes on my shoes because the rock was so rough in sections. That's one I pink pointed... but not going back to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 zebra/zion  Best climb for the grade in the park. IMO......  Made it into Fred's top 100  That final pitch is one of my all time favorites. How can you not love overhanging jugs with great exposure and good gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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