Half rope as a single?

[mhux]

I was wondering how feasible it would be to climb using a fatter half rope (~9mm x 60m/70m) as a single; I know Millet makes a single 9mm and there's a few 9.2mm single cords out there, but is the construction different since they're singles (stronger cores)?

Personally I feel like it'd be a good way to save weight in the alpine and for the occasional moderate sport/trad(/crag?) route where big falls aren't going to happen, as well as being suitable for glacier travel without the weight.

I've read that rappelling can be a bit sketchy but if you take a 7-8mm rap line it seems manageable (plus rope length raps).

Obviously the hardcore use even skinnier half ropes as singles on big routes for weight savings, but what about 'normal' climber use?

So what are your opinions/experience with this?

[keenwesh]

on easier alpine climbs I'll lead on a single halfrope, like 8.6 in diameter. I don't fall and it works well for me.

[obwan]

You may have opened a can of worms, but to keep it simple - there are two very nice ropes. The Mammut Genesis 8.5x60 Superdry Half Rope (on sale $50 off); and the one I use is the PMI Verglas 8.1x60 Dry Half/Twin (it's rated to use either as a twin or single).

[mhux]

You may have opened a can of worms, but to keep it simple - there are two very nice ropes. The Mammut Genesis 8.5x60 Superdry Half Rope (on sale $50 off); and the one I use is the PMI Verglas 8.1x60 Dry Half/Twin (it's rated to use either as a twin or single).

I think you mean a half or a twin rope? No way there's an 8.1 as a single. You're using both of these half ropes as singles then?

[dfrost]

Why not buy a Mammut Serenity--8.9mm, single line?

[FFSummers]

The petzel 9.2 is pretty sweet and light weight, better versatility if your thinking single rope technique only, in my humble opinion. As for rapping on skinny ropes, we use the 7.7 twins a lot and it's a non issue as long as you don't use the wrong belay device.

[obwan]

Correct, both lines are used and in the twin scenario they are both clipped into the same pro. But I have used them as single for easy alpine.

That Mammut Serenity 8.9 is a good way to go for a "single" line - as noted, just watch the rappel.

There are also 30m ropes to really save weight - such as the Edeweiss Discover 8x30m Super Dry.

[DPS]

I regularly climb on a single strand of Edelweiss 8.5 mm Sharp on moderate alpine routes. In my experience a half rope is more durable than skinny single ropes. The sheahes just seem to be thicker and tougher.

[spionin]

for non-cragging ice (or when i have to carry the rope for more than 20 minutes) i use my petzl dragonfly ropes (8.2mm) as singles. works great.

[selkirk]

hmmm, seems sketchy to lead on. Top roping or rapping would be fine. I seem to remember a story about Tommy Caldwell taking a whipper onto a 1/2 rope being used a single. It held, but destroyed the sheath. Some discussion on Mountain Project as well, one good comment suggested that it would be OK, but should be retired after 1 big fall if used in that fashion.

 

Why not use a super skinny single? Just not worth the risk IMHO.

 

Besides, how often is the weight really that important? is 1 additional pound the difference between sumitting or not or just a convenience?

[wfinley]

I use a single 8.5 Mammut Genesis for easy alpine routes. By easy I mean mostly steep chossy 4th class, easy 5th class or snow / glacier routes. However - if there is a chance of a good long fall then I want doubles.

[RuMR]

Just get a beal joker...its a single, a twin, and a double...

 

[kurthicks]

the best way to save rope weight in the alpine is to carry the shortest rope you can get away with.

 

half ropes, when used as a single, are suitable if the leader isn't going to fall and the rock isn't sharp enough to cut the rope.

[montypiton]

On terrain of modest angle, where a fall is unlikely to heavily load a rope, single-strand half-twin will likely be adequate. On high-angle terrain, just double it over and climb shorter pitches. Limiting yourself to shorter pitches this way allows you to shave weight on the rack, as well as the rope.

 

Stretch is the more subtle, and perhaps more critical, issue when using half/twins single strand, and I have four titanium pins in each ankle to remind me of how much a single strand of half/twin may stretch in a TOP-ROPED fall... "belay failure" in my case was a result of unanticipated rope stretch without failure of anchor, rope,or any protection placement.

 

My two cents worth - carry one long skinny light rope, and when in doubt, double it over.

[mhux]

So basically in situations where you're not going to fall, but its nice to have a rope anyway- aka moderate alpine? Seems that the stretch montypiton mentioned would put it out of use for toproping and/or easy cragging (no big falls)...makes sense just to buy a skinny single in that case. Interesting, thanks for all the responses