Speed Ascents

[ZimZam]

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/16/sports/a-new-rush-for-mountain-climbers-to-the-top.html?_r=1&hp

[wayne]

Good for Chad, that will drive old danny nutz!

[dberdinka]

It's curious how Steve House always has to be so adamant that if you're not doing it exactly his way you're doing it wrong. Dude seems so bitter.

[glassgowkiss]

I know Steve and he is not a bitter person. He just speaks what he thinks. And honestly running up peaks has more to do with track and field then with climbing imo.

[Choada_Boy]

I'd like to know what track and field event best prepares you for 0:38 and beyond in this video:

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-dPjDYVKUY

[glassgowkiss]

I am talking about Rainier and Everest records. While it is in the mountains technical difficulties are rather slim.

[Kimmo]

it's all pretty silly really: one doesn't seem any less silly than the other to me.

 

but if it wasn't all silly, it wouldn't be nearly as fun, i suppose (like bouldering and sport climbing).

 

can't say i really get the part about putting oneself in so much objective danger though, especially if one has family.... i'd imagine there's something a bit unexamined going on.

[ScaredSilly]

it's all pretty silly really: one doesn't seem any less silly than the other to me.

 

but if it wasn't all silly, it wouldn't be nearly as fun, i suppose (like bouldering and sport climbing).

 

Well said. In the big scheme, most things in life are inconsequential. Climbing is nothing but the conquest of the useless. Go forth and conquest and enjoy.

[j_b]

It's curious how Steve House always has to be so adamant that if you're not doing it exactly his way you're doing it wrong. Dude seems so bitter.

 

Doesn't he have a point as far as speed climbing not doing much to further climbing? New ground? Higher rating? Better style?

[pink]

It's curious how Steve House always has to be so adamant that if you're not doing it exactly his way you're doing it wrong. Dude seems so bitter.

 

Doesn't he have a point as far as speed climbing not doing much to further climbing? New ground? Higher rating? Better style?

 

 

i would think speed climbing would be good practice to further your climbing skills which in turn would further ones style, furthering ur abilities to climb higher ratings while covering new ground

 

 

drowning in a yummy candy coating

[pink]

I know Steve and he is not a bitter person. He just speaks what he thinks. And honestly running up peaks has more to do with track and field then with climbing imo.

 

 

 

that's a good point bob climbers are more athletic these days. climbers have put down the pipe and bottle, the stopwatch has pushed climbing to the next level weather it be first ascents or classic repeats.

 

 

good post bob, ur contributions and rad music has honestly taken cc.com to a whole new level, like a track and field event. way to pass the baton mister .

[pink]

I am talking about Rainier and Everest records. While it is in the mountains technical difficulties are rather slim.

 

 

gotta love dean ;) ;)

 

http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=273

[j_b]

Doesn't he have a point as far as speed climbing not doing much to further climbing? New ground? Higher rating? Better style?

i would think speed climbing would be good practice to further your climbing skills which in turn would further ones style, furthering ur abilities to climb higher ratings while covering new ground

 

 

drowning in a yummy candy coating

 

Pulling on plastic with mtn boots and a 40 lbs pack is also good practice for climbing yet we still have to read about someone putting out a press communique suggesting the boundaries of climbing have been pushed in the process or that it is a new game that climbers play. You can substitute my example with running up Mt Si if you wish.

 

btw No sugar coating is needed but don't confuse speaking bluntly with writing disparaging comments that have nothing to do with the issue at hand.

[pink]

Doesn't he have a point as far as speed climbing not doing much to further climbing? New ground? Higher rating? Better style?

i would think speed climbing would be good practice to further your climbing skills which in turn would further ones style, furthering ur abilities to climb higher ratings while covering new ground

 

 

drowning in a yummy candy coating

 

Pulling on plastic with mtn boots and a 40 lbs pack is also good practice for climbing yet we still have to read about someone putting out a press communique suggesting the boundaries of climbing have been pushed in the process or that it is a new game that climbers play. You can substitute my example with running up Mt Si if you wish.

 

btw No sugar coating is needed but don't confuse speaking bluntly with writing disparaging comments that have nothing to do with the issue at hand.

 

speed climbers are taking huge risk, climbing at a gym with a 40 pound pack is not taking a risk, ur just getting physical training, not mental training.

 

climbing is climbing, ur just a snob.

 

 

 

 

 

[stevetimetravlr]

I think all you have to do is watch Hans Florine and Yugi in action to have an appreciation that speed climbing is ground breaking, more challenging, and usually more risky. Its not for everyone, but it sure helps to time yourself once in a while and try to one up personal bests, just like training for any sport. Get it on!

 

[dougd]

Recently saw reel rock which included film of Potter/Leary regaining the speed record on the nose of el cap. It's tough to find words to adequately describe what I saw. Awesome, incredible, fucking fantastic, seem to fall short. These guys are deserving of our respect.

 

I'll cheer for Steve.

 

d

[j_b]

speed climbers are taking huge risk, climbing at a gym with a 40 pound pack is not taking a risk, ur just getting physical training, not mental training.

 

climbing is climbing, ur just a snob.

 

Taking huge unnecessary risk isn't part of my philosophy of climbing. On the contrary, minimizing risk according to the demands placed by the objective seems like an important part of what we do. It doesn't mean that I don't believe speed climbing isn't climbing (quit trying to put words in my mouth) or that fast alpine ascents don't push the frontiers of climbing. It's just that taking huge risk while running up a 70 year old route doesn't strike me as particularly good style.

[pink]

speed climbers are taking huge risk, climbing at a gym with a 40 pound pack is not taking a risk, ur just getting physical training, not mental training.

 

climbing is climbing, ur just a snob.

 

Taking huge unnecessary risk isn't part of my philosophy of climbing. On the contrary, minimizing risk according to the demands placed by the objective seems like an important part of what we do. It doesn't mean that I don't believe speed climbing isn't climbing (quit trying to put words in my mouth) or that fast alpine ascents don't push the frontiers of climbing. It's just that taking huge risk while running up a 70 year old route doesn't strike me as particularly good style.

 

i can't think of anything more unnecessary than climbing itself... and you could only dream that i'd put something in ur mouth.

 

 

you are a big snob dude, and an unhappy one at that

[JoeR]

Speed climbing means more climbing in less time. Seems like something everyone can get behind. At least I hope everyone gets behind the idea of going faster. Every time I get stuck behind a Mazama cluster or a wanking party of social climbers I find myself wishing.

 

Kudos to those pushing the limits of speed, may they never get stuck behind slow asses.

[stevetimetravlr]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

[corvallisclimb]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

 

Uhhh all Hans does is jug behind Yuji or Honnold. He's just really good at cleaning. Shipoopi and Hans climbed three El Cap routes in a day in the 90's, while its cool Tommy freed two routes, three is far more impressive even if you are aiding. Just saying.

[stevetimetravlr]

You seriously think all Hans does is jug? Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that. Most of the time they are simo climbing, with Hans managing the grigri.

Ask yourself, in simo climbing does the strongest climber generally lead or go second?

[glassgowkiss]

I know Steve and he is not a bitter person. He just speaks what he thinks. And honestly running up peaks has more to do with track and field then with climbing imo.

 

 

 

that's a good point bob climbers are more athletic these days. climbers have put down the pipe and bottle, the stopwatch has pushed climbing to the next level weather it be first ascents or classic repeats.

 

 

good post bob, ur contributions and rad music has honestly taken cc.com to a whole new level, like a track and field event. way to pass the baton mister .

T-A=0. The Nose in 19 hours, Grand Wall (Apron Strings start) in 2 hours 35 minutes. Care to share your experience in fast climbing with wider audience, or are you just another couch "expert"?

[corvallisclimb]

You seriously think all Hans does is jug? Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that. Most of the time they are simo climbing, with Hans managing the grigri.

Ask yourself, in simo climbing does the strongest climber generally lead or go second?

 

 

Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that.

 

Edited October 24, 2011 by corvallisclimb

[j_b]

Seeing Hans climb I don't think you would feel he takes huge risks. His every move is calculated, well thought out, and precisely executed. All because he has analyzed every single aspect of climbing, belaying, and moving over rock. Shaving a few seconds here, a few there, thinking how can he do this faster but within the realm of relative safety, although if he were to fall there would be consequences for someone. He removes unneccessary actions and tasks from the equation, and refines his art of movement over rock, literally flowing upward like most very fast rock climbers with no energy wasted. He is just one example of a speed climber, and his is something we can all learn from, although there is no need to mimic what he does for everyone. But to say it doesn't strike you as particularly good style is to show that you have never seen him in action or educated yourself as to what it is all about. Who was it that set the stage for motivating Tommy to do 2 El Cap free routes in a day? Don't you think that is more then a little ground breaking, and also the reason that badass walls in the Himalaya and Patagonia are now being done quickly and thus far more safely? EVERYONE can learn something from speed climbing in my book. It has set the stage for more incredible things about to happen....

 

Speed rock climbing on trade routes doesn't involve nearly as much rick as doing so in the mountains, especially on mixed climbs. I'll be forever in awe of people doing hard solo enchainments; however, climbing El Cap in 5 hours versus 2:38:15 (or whatever)? meh, it seems meaningless to me in terms of what is required to break new grounds, which doesn't mean that Florine or whoever aren't excellent and graceful climbers.