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Ok, so what makes a good partner?


glen

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So, we've all got the stories about horrible, scary, cheapskate, selfish, evil, death-causing, stinky, talk-your-ear-off-about-nothing, and generally horrid climbing partners. BUT! We all also know that most of our great climbing experiences have been that way because we've had great partners in addition to some nice rock to ascend. What is it that makes a good partner?

Skills and experience are definitely plusses, but I've also headed out with relatively inexperienced partners who have been excellent partners despite being a bit green. To take it a step further, how do you spot a good partner? For that matter, how do you tell the bad ones from across the parking lot (other than the Tarzan yells and shiny, unused gear).?

 

Ok, so I'm tired and need sleep, but I am curious.

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For me a good partner is someone I can trust with my life without hesitation. They don't have to be a great climber because I stink, but I need to know when I'm 100 feet above them and can't see what their doing that they are making smart and safe decisions. If shit hits the fan in a serious way I need to know that they have the ability to rise to the occasion and not flip out. I suppose being able to handle tough situations comes with experience but there are people who can better handle incredibly stressful situations than others regardless of their experience level. I'd rather be stuck in a tough spot with an inexperienced climber but someone who can rationally handle the situation then someone who is experienced and just mentally self distructs, because in the latter case I'd be forced to make decisions for the both of us, and if it's me who is hurt then they are putting both of us at risk if they can't think rationally. Being with a partner who can handle the gravest of situations can mean life or death for someone, regardless of whether you are 2 days from the trailhead on an alpine route or at a roadside crag. As I learned this winter things can get really bad in a hurry even on a short easy 5.7 sport climb.

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Bring the booze

Bring the ganj

Dont whine

Never tell me I am off route [Razz]

Have fun

Have good stories

Dont fart up a storm in the tent

Cookers are a plus

Manage the ropes when I cannot

Be aware of weather and surroundings

Don't crampon or axe the damn ropes!

Kill a snafflehound

Evade the rangers by bringing all camo gear

Bring enough food and water on the climb

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I have a great partner and I know that he is going to keep it together even if things get a little hairy. We rarely need to communicate about what we are doing when climbing cause we just know what each other is doing.

 

At one point, I was backing away from a climb because I was about 40 ft off the deck w/ groundfall potential... totally cake moves but my head wouldn't let go.. he encourages by saying he would "catch" me and break my fall. Later, I call BS saying him "catching" would just hurt us both... he looked really serious and said that there was no way he could watch a friend fall if he could spot it and maybe do some good.

 

I don't know if I'd want that catch but I do know that he'd step into harm's way for a friend.

 

Also, never complains. Period. Except when he is calling me a pussy.

 

[ 09-19-2002, 07:37 AM: Message edited by: Juneriver ]

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high tolerance for suffering combined with a short memory.

 

Only half kidding, actually what I think makes a good partner is finding someone who is motivated to do the same things you are. If your goals aren’t in line, one of you will be frustrated and the other pissed off… a great partner is amped to do the same routes as you, over and over, regardless of how tired, scared, etc. you both got last time.

 

Also, someone who can Deal With Shit while Keeping Their Shit Together (especially when Shit is Falling Apart). But the trick is figuring out who is going to be able to do this without actually suffering through an epic.

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A good climbing partner is someone who

-you can trust,

-shows up on time(or at least makes every reasonable effort)

-is willing to help you or talk you out of a jam

- will be understanding if you are having a suck shit day

-likes to laugh and have fun

-will buy beer at the end of the trip

-waits for me 'cause I am SLOW!!!!

-doesn't mind carring the rope

-likes to lead [big Grin]

-and will let me lead if I want to

-doesn't get lost (ie can read a map' cause I am useless [Wink] )

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-immense vulgar vocabulary (ability to curse in 3 languages a plus)

-modesty (geniune or affected, whichever...also, total disregard for all life including their own can serve as a substitute)

-as generally agreed, provides ample supply of pre- and post- climb mind/mood altering distraction

-being hot can't hurt, especially if their leading (ya, occurs to me i haven't had a good partner yet)

-mother?

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This is RURP:

 

That Rope-gun guys says:

"You can never have to many alpine partners. Nobody is perfect, but if they are reasonable fit, motivated, easy to get along with, have a sense of humor, and can swing leads."

 

Well, this fellow looks like he would fit the description,

* reasonably fit (o.k., I am guessing)

* motivated (looks eager for whatever)

* easy to get along with (winning smile)

* a sense of humor (he got clown hair)

 

and he looks like could definitely "swing leads"! [laf]

 

-

 

RURP has spoken.

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