layton Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 This subject doesn't seem like it's been beat to death yet. What are your favorite carabiners for different situations and why? There's a lot of new choices out there... Cams -I've been using the newer update of the CAMP nano to keep the rack light and consolidated. The pros are obvious, but the cons are my rack is almost over-consolidated and the nose hangs up on my gear sling something awful. Nuts - I use an old lightweight oval(ish) Mammut wiregate. I like the oval shape to keep the nuts in place and the notch on the nose helps keep the nuts from falling off. Slings -For doubleing up slings I've been using the Black Diamond OZ. It's very light with a large gate opening. Quickdraws -also using the BD OZ and what's left of my Petzl Spirit bent gates. I like the petzl because of the smooth action. Belay -Alpine: the Trango Superfly d/t it's light weight. Multipitch rock- the Petzl Attache 3D. Craggin': either a superlocker, or the new Black Diamond Gridlock. I like keeping the biner from crossloading, but it's a total pain in the ass (with the Gridlock) and I fear I may drop my belay device one of these days. Daisy -Trango superfly locker. It (I think) is the lightest locker out there and it doesn't get a lot of wear and tear as my daisy biner. Aid -Using the new Petzl Attache 3D on the jugs and anchors. Light and big. For the aiders I use an oval wiregate. Spare locker for anchors, etc. -Also the Petzl Attache-3D Ice Screws: still using the Petzl Spirit bent gates. Free Biners for anchor bolts, misc, camera, rock shoes, etc: CAMP nanos seem to be choice for this. Pitons: Oval wiregates. I'd love to find a racking biner for cams that's light and trim, but easier to deploy cams from the rack. I'm thinking the new Petzl wiregate biners. As for Slings and quickdraws: For alpine I've been using the Black Diamond spectra/nylon draw. It seems just a bit beefier than that mammut sling that started it all (and that I Won't climb on). Theres a sling I can't find (ok haven't tried) I think by Bluewater that is even beefier than the BD, but still light and trim. Anyone? For cragging double slings I use the fatty nylon BD or Metolius slings for safety. I hate cragging with those micro slings. As for quickdraws, Petzl seems to make a great draw, but mine are so dated. Double legnth slings: I haven't used a double length sling in a long long time. I occasionally bring ONE Rabbit Runner if I think I might need it for wandery routes or slinging on ice climbs. What about anchor cords? I've got a sweet nylon/kevlar 5mm cord that's really supple and light, but I really don't want to sacrifice it for TAT...so recently I've just been bringing a 6mm perlon cord. And finally TAT! I bought a spool of supertape (that 5/16th shit you tie off hooks with) and have been using it for years. I used to use 6mm perlon until I found my source. I actually used all my old Mammut lightweight slings for tat after I decided I wouldn't climb with them anymore. I'd love to hear what y'all like and why! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 why do you not like the mammut slings anymore? I got lightweight (for the late 90's) keylock kong biners on camalots. various mishmash (mostly hotwires) on draws. I could use a some modernization of my biners and slings. My heavy rack makes me adapt stronger! Me thinks you have too much free time and money Mikey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 I don't like the mammut slings based on paranoia...too small to notice any damage or wear/tear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Camp Nano biners rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Nothing but keylocks for me full set of Wild Country Helium wired keylocks. Everything on these, cams/nuts/draws. Nothing beats the performance, light weight, large opening, and keylock for smoothness. They broke new ground on their forging process. Every time you think something as simple as a carabiner is fully refined someone takes it up another notch. BD Positron keylock lockers, BD Vaporlocks for the belay device. Have a few Trango Superfly lockers, use them for the alpine only cuz they have such a small opening. thinking about getting a set of Metolius FS wiregates for the alpine because they are so light. all kinds of slings, Including Mammut and the Wild Country skinnys, they are a little thicker than the Mammut. Use a quad length skinny sling as a cordalet, it's not quite as long as a standard cordalet but because it's so skinny the knot uses less length so it evens out. When I aid at the crags have a full set of mixed beater beaners because of the abuse. For big wall like Yos I have a set of Petzl Spirits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Carabiner comparison http://www.supertopo.com/best/Carabiner-Review Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Everybody should have one or two of those DMM Revolvers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Everybody should have one or two of those DMM Revolvers. I've been thinking about carrying one for a rescue/hauling situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I really like the DMM wallnuts, another example of a very refined product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 For general use I like the Wild Country Heliums and Petzl Spirits. The Spirits are really tough and I have some I have carried for over ten years that still perform as well as the day I bought them. The Heliums clip really easily and I like the hookless nose and wire gate combination. Both of these, with a key-lock gate, do not get caught on slings or bolt hangers when you want to unclip and the wired stoppers slide right off them if you use one for a racking 'biner. I know there are lighter 'biners out there but I think they are all smaller and I have not become a fan of the miniature 'biners. The downside of the keylocks is they don't open a beer bottle as easily as a traditional 'biner but where there's a will there's a way, eh? Slings? Who cares. I get a better feeling looking at the fat ones and when you want to stand in one or grab it they are a little more comfy but I have no problem using the skinnier one some of my friends like to carry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Not what I'd suggest people invest in, but what I've collected... -big, heavy pear shaped DMM (Excaliburs?) straight and bent gates on 6-8 draws. tiny! BD straight gates (nanos? Neutrinos?) and cheap bd wire gates on 5-7 two foot runners "tied" into quickdraw lengths. 2 madrock "super-pear" locking biners with cords. a total bastard collection of ovals, d's, and shitty biners* I've refused to use for anything else other than holding my rack together. I'm not much of a fan of getting new gear, but one advantage of having updated my draws and runners has been having a surplus biners. Last season of climbing I switched to racking my medium TCU's one-per-biner and it seemed to make those placement much more enjoyable. *Side note: I bought a set of draws from a guy 15 years ago that included some small DMM straight and bent gates. When I make a clip, I think I hold the biner and push the rope through the gate with one finger (like 'm sure many others do...). The tiny gate opening and small biner size of the bent gates made it relatively easy to get my finger caught between the rope and sharp notch of the gate "lock" mechanism. It only took one instance of being moderately freaked out, one set of fingers cripming, and the other set stuck in a biner that could probably tear my finger tip off. Yikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldfinger Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Sport draws are CAMP Orbit wires on Petzl 12cm express draws, Trad are Mammut Moses ans CXamp Nanos on the bolt end on Petzl 12cm 10mm Dyuneema draws with the String S, loose biners and cams on the Mammut Moses, nuts and Hexes on DMM Spectre 2 biners, Mammut contact slings and Sterling 7mm cordelette with dry core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Trad: BD nylon slings (they last longer, are cheaper, and have lower impact force) with Trango lightwire carabiners for the most part Ice: Screamers with Camp Photon biners. a few dyneema slings for extending placements or to go on pins or rock gear. sport: Petzl dogbones with BD keylock biners. Alpine: dyneema (light is right in the alpine) with wiregates (neutrino,oz,photon,etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RafalA Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Trad, alpine, ice: WC Astro biners on a mix of BD, Mammut, Edelweiss and Ocun dyneema slings. Yates screamers. DMM Phantom on each cam. BD Freewire for racking nuts. Petzl Ange S for misc gear (bottle, gloves, windshirt, etc.) DMM Spectre2 for rap cord. Sport: BD Positron 12cm QD's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Here are my favs for different situations DMM revolvers (locking ones for stick clips, non locking for the rest). Simond Goliath keeper lockers (a unique patent) Camp Nanos Metolius minis Spainsh Bentgate wiregates Petzl Notchless Ovals Petzl Spirits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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