mattp Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 Trip: Schawangunks - several Date: 5/15/2011 Trip Report: The 'Gunks is a crag not to be missed. The Schawangunks are my favorite crags in the U.S., but the Gunks are more than just my favorite place. This is one of America's premiere rock climbing destinations - with one of American rock climbers' longest histories, first being climbed in the '30's. These crags offer stunning routes from 5.2 to 5.12 (maybe more at either end), scenic views, and incredible ambiance. Known for positive (in-cut) holds and copious overhangs, even a 5.2 route has the climber weaving in and around, maybe even pulling over, space. I climbed there this past weekend. We did some classics. Nothing hard, but everything fun. Gear Notes: The 'Gunks are trad. Bring a full rack and don't expect a lot of bolts. Approach Notes: Get here any way you can. There are 1000 rock climbs, with at least 300 of them being REALLY GOOD rock climbs, easily approached in Teva's or, as in my case, dress shoes. Quote
spionin Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 great picture and nice stoke! been looking forward to going there this august while visiting family on the right coast! Quote
mattp Posted May 17, 2011 Author Posted May 17, 2011 Kane, I swapped out Birdland for Pink Laurel, but yes. What incredible climbs! Quote
nkane Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 Good choice - what a rad climb (though Pink Laurel is too). My partner managed to take repeated whips at the first pitch crux and weld one of my nuts there last year. I wonder if it's still there. Quote
Riley81 Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 Glad to hear you had a good time. Looks like an awesome place. P.S. I have your coffee Cup from our trip to Exit 38. Quote
JasonG Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 That first photo is especially amazing, thanks for sharing! Talking with you about the Gunks while doing trail work at Erie certainly got me thinking about trying to make a trip out there sometime. Some of my wife's family is in NY, so I could probably gain some points at the same time . .. . Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Nice! What are the ratings of the climbs pictured? I must go climb there sometime soon, hell even my mom has climbed there! Quote
mattp Posted May 18, 2011 Author Posted May 18, 2011 The ratings at the Gunks are "old school." I think the two climbs shown above are rated 5.8, but both would be rated harder at any modern crag -- at least any one around here. But, whatever ... the Gunks offer climbs for damn near everybody -- the approaches are easy, the climbing fun, (mostly) with good pro, and the rock is solid. The views and history offer secondary bonus points, and every time I've been there I have found the regular (local) climbers to be friendly and more. In this shot Jason, who climbed his first "outdoor" lead last weekend, pulls an amazing 5.6 overhang. I have climbed a lot of climbs like this and I pulled up on the opening holds, saw nothing, and started uttering swear words. My sister-in-law said "just climb up" and she was right: a very sufficient hold was right there in front of me. The Gunks are full of surprises! Jason did really well on his lead the next day. Quote
Otto Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 I climbed a 5.6 route called Double Chin there that was like that - in two places! Quote
crackers Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Matt, if you get back on Birdland, the second pitch is full value but a wee bit thin. There's a great hard TR off the birdland anchor that you should just try whether or not you've got any expectation of doing it...it gives the "crimp, sidepull, pull up, must be the crux...jug" feeling to a very high level. Remember, the grades on many of the classic climbs at the gunks were agreed upon when that grade was the highest level in american climbing. Imagine Sharma and that lot arguing about whether 5.9 is even possible or not...and then climbing the 5.9 forty years later. I miss the incuts, but not the humidity and the heat. Quote
boadman Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 I cut my trad teeth at the gunks. I always thought it must be the easiest place for a sport climber to transition into trad because you almost never have to jam. The ratings are definitely stout, but no stouter than Index! Directissima & Doubleissima (spelling?) are definitely among my all time favorites. Quote
wayne Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 The place looks great. I've heard the grades are stiff. old school Quote
Layback Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Awesome Matt. The Gunks are where I learned to climb 13 years ago. There's no better place to crag in the US in my opinion. No doubt the ratings are stiff; I like to call them real. I went home last year and climbed at the Gunks thinking I had progressed to being a solid 5.8 leader and got a rude awakening on a 5.6. Did you happen to experience High Exposure? I don't think I've ever led a finer moderate anywhere. Quote
Jon H Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Matt, if you get back on Birdland, the second pitch is full value but a wee bit thin. There's a great hard TR off the birdland anchor that you should just try whether or not you've got any expectation of doing it...it gives the "crimp, sidepull, pull up, must be the crux...jug" feeling to a very high level. That's Slammin the Salmon. Gunks 5.12's are no joke. I still haven't been able to figure out the crux move (lockoff on an undercling crimp with the right hand into a big cross move over with your left, on terrible feet), but I've managed to work through everything else without too much difficulty. Good choice - what a rad climb (though Pink Laurel is too). My partner managed to take repeated whips at the first pitch crux and weld one of my nuts there last year. I wonder if it's still there. I went up Birdland a couple months ago. Don't remember any welded nuts down low, but I live about an hr away so I'll go see if it's still hanging out Quote
crackers Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Matt, if you get back on Birdland, the second pitch is full value but a wee bit thin. There's a great hard TR off the birdland anchor that you should just try whether or not you've got any expectation of doing it...it gives the "crimp, sidepull, pull up, must be the crux...jug" feeling to a very high level. That's Slammin the Salmon. Gunks 5.12's are no joke. I still haven't been able to figure out the crux move (lockoff on an undercling crimp with the right hand into a big cross move over with your left, on terrible feet), but I've managed to work through everything else without too much difficulty. As I recall, combine the crux of the Salmon with the lower crux to get (if I recall correctly) Bird-Salmon which is solid 12. Birdbrain slants from climber's right to climber's left while Slammin' slants from left to right. Combine them, and you start closer to transcon, hit that little roof crux (12b or so) and then the upper crux on the red face of Salmon (easy 12a as I recall). The upper crux on Salmon wasn't too bad for me (6'5") but the 10ish face moves on the exit threw me off once or twice...It took me quite a bit of work to get that combo. That area of the Nears is a top rope hard climb fantasy land. There are a bunch of hard 11s and 12s you can hit there without climbing harder than 5.8. Suddenly, I miss the gunks! Quote
spionin Posted August 14, 2011 Posted August 14, 2011 woo-hoo! what an awesome place! got my ass kicked on a sweet 5.6 called shockley's ceiling (and more) this weekend. here's a historical picture (yes, dick williams is naked on it) of the crux move. Quote
mattp Posted August 14, 2011 Author Posted August 14, 2011 Nice one. A shot of the Vulgarian. On my first lead I fell off Gaston, one or two pitches below this on the link-up we did that day. Shokley's is an amazing climb. Quote
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