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Posted

Trip: Cody - Classics

 

Date: 2/5/2011

 

Trip Report:

Trip Report Summary:

2/4: PDX -> BIL

2/5: BIL -> Cody; Cabin Fever (1p) + Wyoming Wave (4p); Too Cold To Fire (2p)

2/6: All 6 pitches of Broken Hearts + Carotid Artery (1p)

2/7: Moratorium (2p); Cody -> BIL

 

A little late on the TR but what can I say... I've been busy surfing. Good times with Zac, Michiel and Dave. All our crampons apparently dont fit because the link bar moves, at least 2 of us had down belay (or is it bivy?) jackets with removable hoods no less and I forgot my helmet... it's amazing we climbed anything at all! Our pathetic efforts in pictures :grlaf::laf: :laf: ;)

 

Cabin Fever

CI_006.JPG

 

Somewhere along Wyoming Wave

CI3.JPG

 

Too Cold To Fire

CI4.JPG

 

Broken Hearts

CI_023.JPG

 

CI1.JPG

 

Dave earning his My Only Valentine merit badge (5th pitch of BH)

CI_028.JPG

 

CI_031.JPG

 

Count the screws: Zac crusing the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts (My Only Valentine)

CI2.JPG

 

Broken Hearts 6th pitch in fat conditions: legit WI5

CI_042.JPG

 

Legit

CI_043.JPG

 

CI_048.JPG

 

The Carotid Artery: does this thing ever touch down?

CI7.JPG

 

CI_058.JPG

 

If half of it falls down that means you have half of it left to climb

CI_061.JPG

 

Dealing with roofs: Crampon Fit or Core Strength?

CI_066.JPG

 

Moratorium

CI5.JPG

 

Moratorium Second Pitch

CI6.JPG

 

CI_069.JPG

 

CI_072.JPG

 

CI_074.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Helmets work best when you dont leave them in PDX.

 

icebeer.JPG

 

Approach Notes:

alaska air

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Posted (edited)

Forgotten helmet= I have to lead everything.Nice strategy. We had hemlets and look what happened to our heads. . Sick arterial send too. Nice running into you guys there.

Edited by wayne1112
Posted

All our crampons apparently dont fit because the link bar moves, at least 2 of us had down belay (or is it bivy?) jackets with removable hoods no less and I forgot my helmet...

 

hahah So funny.. My gear never works right and I'm too lazy/stupid to figure it out.

 

Roofs and ice climbing?! That's messed up man, roofs are for pebble wrestlers. Taking skills learned while climbing on plastic to the outdoors is cheating.

 

 

 

Posted
thats a solid wi3 weakend...and helmets are only for people who need them and you apparently need one!

 

Zero respect. Post your address dude - I think there will be some folks that would like to pay you a visit. :poke:

 

As always - great photos John. Keep leading the way. :tup::rocken:

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