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[TR] Vancouver Island Ice - Newman-Foraker rte. - Mt. Arrowsmith 2/7/2011


Bigtree

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Trip: Vancouver Island Ice - Newman-Foraker rte. - Mt. Arrowsmith

 

Date: 2/7/2011

 

Trip Report:

 

I've been wanting to climb this route for some time and the right conditions and partner finally combined to make it happen. We did it over a leisurely but cold 4 hrs from base of climb to top and back down (could cut that down by 1/3 by a more energetic and efficient team). Grade is ~ alpine ice 3/150m/3 ~ 45-50m pitches and a little simulclimb finish as we topped out.

 

Route and rough belay stations (this photo was taken previous by someone else a few seasons back and there was significantly less snow this time around):

 

Newman%20-Foraker%20Rte%20%28Henrik%20Hinkkala%20Photo%29.jpg

 

Looking up at the start of the climb:

 

008.JPG

 

~ 1/3 way up cruxy first pitch:

 

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Looking down from second belay:

 

012.JPG

 

 

Approaching 3rd belay (west ridge of Mt. Arrowsmith in background):

 

022.JPG

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice tools, 1 - 60m 9.9 mm rope and 12 screws, slings and a warm gloves/jacket.

 

Approach Notes:

3 1/2 hr drive from Victoria. Parked at 2nd switchback on Pass Main. 1 1/2 hr approach hump up to base of climb.

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