Bigtree Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Trip: Vancouver Island Ice - Newman-Foraker rte. - Mt. Arrowsmith Date: 2/7/2011 Trip Report: I've been wanting to climb this route for some time and the right conditions and partner finally combined to make it happen. We did it over a leisurely but cold 4 hrs from base of climb to top and back down (could cut that down by 1/3 by a more energetic and efficient team). Grade is ~ alpine ice 3/150m/3 ~ 45-50m pitches and a little simulclimb finish as we topped out. Route and rough belay stations (this photo was taken previous by someone else a few seasons back and there was significantly less snow this time around): Looking up at the start of the climb: ~ 1/3 way up cruxy first pitch: Looking down from second belay: Approaching 3rd belay (west ridge of Mt. Arrowsmith in background): Gear Notes: Ice tools, 1 - 60m 9.9 mm rope and 12 screws, slings and a warm gloves/jacket. Approach Notes: 3 1/2 hr drive from Victoria. Parked at 2nd switchback on Pass Main. 1 1/2 hr approach hump up to base of climb. Quote
JasonG Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Wow, is that as classic as it looks? Other stuff in the area that is similar? Pretty cool, thanks for the TR! Quote
Tyson.g Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Suh-Wheat! Awesome photos, Awesome TR! I am rolling on the floor of my cubicle dying of Stoke! Thanks! Quote
Lucky Larry Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Thanks, thats dope; looks like a classic moderate climb w/o 5k', 5 mile approach. Gets me excited to know that there is stuff out there that I might still be able to do without having to crush myself. Quote
G-spotter Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Good to see someone made good use of the weather window. The Ben Nevis of the South Island, eh? Quote
AlpineK Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Great photos. The ice formations do look like Scottish ice climbing. Quote
Don_Serl Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 nicely done! if there was less snow, places like Arrowsmith really COULD be as good as the Ben - as it is, you've done well to steal the opportunity when it came! Quote
stever Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 awesome! I always wondered how often that route gets climbed. nice to see some pics!! Quote
Off_White Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 That's the coolest thing I've seen all week, love the photo looking down from the second belay. Quote
DPS Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 Wow, something different yet relatively close. Nice work. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.