TimL Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 With so much good climbing and so little time, I wanted to hear what people think are some best pitches in the PNW. The type of pitches that makes one think "This is why I climb". Granted a little spray might be involved, but take the spray for what it is and use the beta as a good resource. R&D, Icicle Buttress - Leavenworth - Last pitch 5.5 hand crack NW Corner, North Early Winters Spire - p3 & p4 5.9 - every type of climbing technique imaginable must be used! Off Duty, Duty Dome Leavenworth - 5.10a slab - intricate and exciting crimping with a thought provoking run outs. Thanks Vik! Davis-Holland, Upper Index Town Wall - p2 5.10a corner hand crack - beautiful Thin Fingers, Lower Index Town Wall - p2 5.something - legendary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 My vote is for: -Slow Children- Ahhhh... perfect fingers! -Any of the cool Arete pitches on the N Ridge of Stuart- Ahhhh... perfect exposure! -Aborigine, Li Si- Ahhhh... steep w/jugs and fat rusty bolts! BTW... Nice topic Tim! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 Best finger crack - Exasperator 10a Squamish Best Route - Grand Wall 11a Squamish Best Single Alpine Pitch - 5th on Chianti Spire Best Sport Route - Crossfire 12b Smith Rock. Now I want to take off work and go climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 Doh - totally forgot about Slow Children. Absolutely right. How about West Ridge of Forbidden as an awesome one day climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 Cocaine Crack - Leavenworth 10a Regular Route Careno Crag - Leavenworth 10a Bo Derek - Leavenworth 10b Canary - Leavenworth 5.8 Zebra/Zion - Smith - last pitch 5.9 Karate Crack - Smith 10a White Satin - Smith - last pitch 5.9 Moons of Pluto - Smith 5.10d Blue Light Special - Smith 5.11a Godzilla - Index 5.9 Flying Circus - Squamish 10a Exaspirator - Squamish - first pitch 10a [This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 08-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 A highly personal list based on what I remember as fun. I would repeat any of these routes in an instant except maybe Lillarete just because I'm kinda burned out on Salal creek at the moment. Ask me again next year. Single pitch crack: High Mountain Woody,Malemute, 5.8+; Single pitch face: Idiot Savant, Cheakamus Canyon, 10b; Multipitch crag route: TIE, Snake 5.9 and Rock On 10a, both the Apron, Chief; Alpine scramble: TIE, N. ridge of Needle and W. buttress, S. peak, Old Settler, both 4th class; Alpine rock route: Lillarete, Mt. Athelstan, 5.8; Alpine ice route: Joffre Centre Couloir, IV 60 degrees; Waterfall ice route: Oregon Jack, WI3+ (beats Icy BC through less crowds and cooler setting) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted August 15, 2001 Author Share Posted August 15, 2001 Slow Children,yes West Ridge, Prussik Peak 5.7 - just pure fun Senseless Thought of Paronia - 5.11b/c variation to Lovin Arms - Index - excellent Great Northern Slab - Twin Cracks fun, fun, fun Town Crier - P4 Triple Overhand pitch C1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 Outer Space Long hand crack chickenhead pitch -Lworth Orbit Long slab pitch -Lworth Catapult -Castle rock Damnation Crack -Castle rock Bo Derek -Lworth Brass Balls -Castle rock Monument West Face Crack -Enchantments Careno Crag R Route Last pitch not the bolted one -Lworth Meat Grinder -Lworth Canary -Castle Rock Dishonorable Discharge -Lworth Mountaineers Dome Cracks -Lworth Midway -Castle Rock Zilla -Index Battered Sandwich -Index Aries last pitch -Index Lightning Crack -Peshastin Windward Direct -Peshastin Super Slab -Smith GNS -Index Twin Cracks -Vantage Oh yeah everything at Fossil Rock! [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 08-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 15, 2001 Share Posted August 15, 2001 drul, what about penguins in bondage? i would have thought that route would be right your alley?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYSON Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 GNS-Index Even steven-Index Dont know the name, route is about 400' left of the big tree route at 3 o clock( way cool knobs) Chickenshit gully to top of dick ridge(running belay)-squire creek wall Ridge run from conglomerate to spire pt-Skykomish area. Last 400 ft of del campo-Monte cristo area. MT Baring in winter. Whitehorse- rock scramble on summit ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 damnation crack- lw outerspace handcrack- lw jellotower s face- lw classic crack- lw bo dereck- lw party in your pants- vantage air guitar- vantage godzilla- index last pitch of zebrazion- smith pitch after black pillar- dragontail/serpentine and yes, west ridge forbidden [This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 08-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Al Givler's Crack, Givler's Dome, 11-worth Split Pillar, right side, Squamish Chief Easter Overhang, Midnight Rock, 11-worth Damnation Crack, Castle Rock, 11-worth Brass Balls, Castle Rock Split Beaver, Split Beaver, Squamish GM, The Country, Index Caboose, Malamute, Squamish Wonderland, Smokebluffs, Squamish Pumpline, Careno Crag, 11-worth Prussik Peak, Burgner/Stanley, 5th pitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Dru, Which Needle Peak are you speaking about for your favorite scambles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freak Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Second pitch of exasperator**** Givlers Air roof, that thing is hanus in a good way Upper pitches on the fin, dragon tail Thin fingers Arms controll/ short but fun apron strings, the list could go on and on cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Zebra-Zion, pitch #2 (the dihedral)and pitch #4 (the last, as above mentioned; Karate Crack; Moonshine dihedral - Smith Rock Catapult; Canary; Damnation; Mr. Clean; Mrs. Clean - Castle Rock Liberty Crack, pitches 4 thru 7, Liberty Bell direct E. Buttress, S. Early Winter Spire, pitch #4 Yellow Bird; ROTC - Midnight Rock the Crawl, S. Ridge, Three-Fingered Jack, Oregon Leuthold Couloir; North Face gullies - Mt. Hood the Great Gendarme, Mt. Stuart, North Ridge Classic Crack, Z-Crack, Bo Derek, Icicle Canyon Outer Space & Hyperspace, Snow Creek Wall the rock bands from 15000' to 17000' on the Cassin Ridge of Denali - best quality rock I've seen anywhere at such altitude... [This message has been edited by haireball (edited 08-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Blue Crack pitch - Dreamer Last (difficult) pitch NW Corner NEWS Damnation Crack First of the Outer Space handcrack pitches Corner Pockets p2 - Vantage Thin Fingers Cocaine Crack Local Boys Do Good p1 - Sqish Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 The Split Pillar (right side) - Squamish Last pitch The Grand Wall - Squamish Blue Crack pitch on Dreamer - Green Giant All of the handcrack on Outer space - Leavenworth Psychopath - Leavenworth Gangsters, Rattlesnake rock - Leavenworth Pitch 2 Davis-Holland - Index Pitch 1 Lovin Arms - Index George & Martha - Vantage That thing next to it (TR) - Vantage The Price of Complacency - Royal Columns (on Tieton) Imperial Master - Royal Columns Inca Roads - Royal columns The whole middle wall at The Cave (on Tieton) The Land Down Under - Beehive (on Tieton) Wildcat Crack - Wildcat Cliff (on Tieton) Battle of the bulge - Fossil Rock Room with a View - Fossil Rock Rainy Day Women - Little Si Aborigine - Little Si Digitalis - Little Si Last pitch Zebra/Zion - Smith BarBQ the Pope - Smith Toxic - Smith Vomit Launch - Smith Moons of Pluto - Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 C'mon, nobody mentioned Magic Light @ Smith! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Never heard of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 you mean traffic light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 I've heard of Magic Light (5.11a) on the Morning Glory Wall.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 ...and now I realize you were being sarcastic....whoops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 quote: Originally posted by erik: drul, what about penguins in bondage? i would have thought that route would be right your alley?! I'm not good enough to lead it and I'm too proud to toprope it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Stefan: Dru, Which Needle Peak are you speaking about for your favorite scambles? The one across from Yak on the Coquihalla Highway. Description and photo on www.bivouac.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 yeah that drul's pimp the ladies route. "hey sweetie you wanna go climbing with me sometime, i will take you to the sweetest spot in upper america.(oops!) i mean canada." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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