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Posted

I put this in the basement because am too lazy to carefully back up my assertion.

 

Facts are available however.

 

American cert has made strides toward improvement (mainly on the backs of the few starving guides willing to pay for courses) but in Canada, and Europe, they are waaay ahead of game & can't work without this training.

 

Some of the world's finest climbers are active as American guides, but don't have the certification...which is potentially irrelevant in that case.....One can also engage many American guides that may have lots of raw talent and drive, but little training or long experience.

 

In Canada, all guides really go through the mill...YOU KNOW they've been checked out ad infinitum for years by their peers.....based on their level of certification.........AND in many instances.(See ACC programs)..they may cost a bit less, will generally do the cooking, and the mountains up there are nicer........

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Posted

I take it back: The U.S. dollar ain't what it used to be, so the cost of hiring Canadian guide is now about the same as in U.S. However, an ACC program, which costs per day about what AAI wants, includes food, a camp cook, perhaps porters or often, helicopter access & often hut accomodations.

 

And on average the guides are much more highly trained as such, if not necessarily better at climbing, which is a somewhat different skill set.

 

Also, ACC is a club rather than profit-making enterprise, which has subtle & salutary effect.

 

...and the mountains are perhaps somewhat nicer

 

 

Posted

Of all the shit you sling John and you just now finally come up with the obvious answer and then unload it in spray :) Drop the vino and step away amigo.

Posted

I once saw a Canuk guide drop the rope while threading the shuts at Grassi Lakes. His clients stood at the bottom with mouths gaping ... the other guides in the area all marched their clients to the base of the climb and then proceeded to give a lecture about what he had done wrong. They left the poor guy hanging from the shuts for a good hour before sending another rope up. :laf:

Posted

You guys are what they call "know-nothings."

 

Not actually a compliment.

 

Is a historical term but can be compared with current S. Palin fans & other weird stuff.

 

I think Grassi Lakes is place for one-pitch sport climbs?

You may find alpine mountain guides working there, or maybe not.

 

I gather you aren't able to research and/or acknowledge/understand the history and circumstances regarding the training of guides in the U.S., Canada, & Europe.

 

But Whadda I know????

Posted

I remember climbing Baker on AAI program about twenty years ago and a somewhat elderly guide (an extremely accomplished and rather unsung mountaineer & Bremerton native), was pointing out a few peaks.

 

I pointed to a peak near Slesse, and asked about it. His response, with a shake of his head was "aw, that's Canada."

Posted

So true.

 

Thread's point is that Canada's long-established training system for guides is more effective, versus the non-system in U.S.

 

Completing Baker via Easton Glacier with guides over a period of several days, and etc., one doesn't brag about. AAI's training is, nonetheless, often fairly competent, and they have employed over the years, some competent climbers.

 

Parochialism of a first-rate U.S. guide is point of comment, rather than my remarkable prowess as of twenty (or thirty) years ago.

 

Your point is apparently merely to piss on the thread, which we fully appreciate. You are very competent in this regard.

 

When I'm sleeping soundly (and competently) in my three-pound Wal-Mart pup-tent on an August evening, and you're a few miles away trying to swat bugs and snooze in your $500 bivy sack, we'll both have sweet dreams.

 

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