Jump to content

I'm freeing city park

summitchaserCJB

By summitchaserCJB
in Rock Climbing Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

genepires Boulderer

genepires

Posted
Posted

not being a hater but your aid sequence needs some streamlining. Plus, it is a good idea to clip the piece after you have tested it either with a bounce or applying full body weight. And why bounce test a nut with a solid cam above it? It should have been bounce tested from below.

 

Just a little friendly advice from someone who is not a aid expert by any means. Get a pair of regular daisy chains and use a fifi on them.

read some on aid techniques. try it. read some more. try them. continue ad nauseum.

simplify, simplify, simplify to go faster.

 

here is my basic sequence that I am sure many others can improve upon: assume nut for simplicity

climb up aiders till nut at waist height. hook fifi into nut.

Place next nut as high as possible while still being strong. An extra 2 inches won't matter if it blows.

clip daisy to nut. No other biner besides daisy biner.

Clip lower piece to rope, take fifi off and give a little bounce test via daisy. Put one or two aiders onto daisy biner (if not on already) and give it full body bounce test as aggresive as you feel like.

While bounce testing, your rope is connected to the nut below the testing nut which has been tested already and should hold a good fall. (If the rope is connected to testing nut and it fails, you have introduced slack into the system)

If satisfied with the new nut, climb up aiders till at waist height and fifi in again

repeat till you are sick of aid climbing and go sport climbing.

 

Once, no hating here just saw a lot of inefficiency going on in the video. Why the equalized anchor mid pitch?

stevetimetravlr Gumby

stevetimetravlr

Posted
Posted

Oh Yeah! Way to get after it. The way you learn is just by doing it, working thru it, time on the rock and in the aiders,as we all know. Way to be out climbing while looks like no on else was out at Index getting it done. fun stuff! Keep on rocking dude.

rocketparrotlet Gumby

rocketparrotlet

Posted
Posted
not being a hater but your aid sequence needs some streamlining. Plus, it is a good idea to clip the piece after you have tested it either with a bounce or applying full body weight. And why bounce test a nut with a solid cam above it? It should have been bounce tested from below.

 

Just a little friendly advice from someone who is not a aid expert by any means. Get a pair of regular daisy chains and use a fifi on them.

read some on aid techniques. try it. read some more. try them. continue ad nauseum.

simplify, simplify, simplify to go faster.

 

here is my basic sequence that I am sure many others can improve upon: assume nut for simplicity

climb up aiders till nut at waist height. hook fifi into nut.

Place next nut as high as possible while still being strong. An extra 2 inches won't matter if it blows.

clip daisy to nut. No other biner besides daisy biner.

Clip lower piece to rope, take fifi off and give a little bounce test via daisy. Put one or two aiders onto daisy biner (if not on already) and give it full body bounce test as aggresive as you feel like.

While bounce testing, your rope is connected to the nut below the testing nut which has been tested already and should hold a good fall. (If the rope is connected to testing nut and it fails, you have introduced slack into the system)

If satisfied with the new nut, climb up aiders till at waist height and fifi in again

repeat till you are sick of aid climbing and go sport climbing.

 

Once, no hating here just saw a lot of inefficiency going on in the video. Why the equalized anchor mid pitch?

 

Thanks for the advice. I was the other climber here, by the way. It was my first time aid climbing- I aided the first part, found myself a little short on small nuts and cams partway through, built and equalized a bomber anchor to rappel off and let Colin jug up (I didn't want all my pieces to zipper off and kill me). Thanks for the links to those who posted them. I will read up on some more aid climbing technique, I thought it was fun.

 

-Mark

summitchaserCJB Gumby

summitchaserCJB

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
not being a hater but your aid sequence needs some streamlining. Plus, it is a good idea to clip the piece after you have tested it either with a bounce or applying full body weight. And why bounce test a nut with a solid cam above it? It should have been bounce tested from below.

 

Just a little friendly advice from someone who is not a aid expert by any means. Get a pair of regular daisy chains and use a fifi on them.

read some on aid techniques. try it. read some more. try them. continue ad nauseum.

simplify, simplify, simplify to go faster.

 

here is my basic sequence that I am sure many others can improve upon: assume nut for simplicity

climb up aiders till nut at waist height. hook fifi into nut.

Place next nut as high as possible while still being strong. An extra 2 inches won't matter if it blows.

clip daisy to nut. No other biner besides daisy biner.

Clip lower piece to rope, take fifi off and give a little bounce test via daisy. Put one or two aiders onto daisy biner (if not on already) and give it full body bounce test as aggresive as you feel like.

While bounce testing, your rope is connected to the nut below the testing nut which has been tested already and should hold a good fall. (If the rope is connected to testing nut and it fails, you have introduced slack into the system)

If satisfied with the new nut, climb up aiders till at waist height and fifi in again

repeat till you are sick of aid climbing and go sport climbing.

 

Once, no hating here just saw a lot of inefficiency going on in the video. Why the equalized anchor mid pitch?

Gene-

I'm just getting into aid but I know enough not to get myself killed. As far as the bounce test I don't remember the specific instance but you could be right. But I don't recall bounce testing a piece that was below another piece (and I don't want to watch the video right now again). Sure there was inefficiency, that was my first full aid pitch. I was worried more about dangerous mistakes, of which I pretty sure there were none. Now, if that was A4 it would be another thing. Thanks for the time you took to help out. As for your advice about try, read, ect... that is spot on. :tup: Works well for alpine, trad so I'm sure it works for aid.

Edited by summitchaserCJB
num1mc Gumby

num1mc

Posted
Posted
WTF are you even doing??? You are fucking light, that music sucks! How old are you? God, fuck how can you even listen to that shit? Is this a joke video?

 

The best post of this thread.

genepires Boulderer

genepires

Posted
Posted

I think the wierd bounce test was near the end of the video. A #2 tcu high and bounce on a nut below. I would not have brought anything up if I hadn't been in the same spot myself. :)

 

the testing thing matters more on sketchy aid. City park is a very good long aid pitch. Aid climbing is one of those sports where reading more helps because there is so much rope work, gear management and various techniques to various situations. Always something new to learn there.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


×
×
  • Create New...