Dane Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Ice on Asgard...this can't be far behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I'm waiting until March when (hopefully) it will be thickly iced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I'll wait for the day after DPS goes in so there is a boot pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I'll let you know Gene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I've got my partner lined up just waiting for conditions!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Pick a line..any line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 woop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcutter Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Would any of you old hands feel like spilling the beans? I know where starbucks is, and REI, and Mt Stuart - but where exactly is that good granite & ice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 (edited) ne coulouir on dragontail. while not a new route, it was "re-discovered" three years ago Edited October 27, 2010 by kevino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Dane! Trying to bait some of the young pups into putting a boot pack in with tilted photos and promises of snow free ice climbing? I'm wise to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Sweet pics. The slog down the walk off with a dusting of snow sucks. Somebody want to drill some rap anchors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 Damit Frieh...don't be telling One of the more condition specific local climbs. Red line in full is typically not done. All the pictures are from that climb. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/854656/1 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/872396/Re_Need_Dragontail_N_E_Coulior#Post872396 "John Frieh mentioned to me from his climb, "The M5 is easy too... more like M4." On our ascent I found two places got my attention while following, the beginning and the end of the upper headwall gully because of the lack of ice. In between those two points something more like WI 2+ or 3 and M3. Mixed grades are suppose to relate to rock. M3 being 5.7, M4 being 5.8 and M5 being 5.9. Obviously top roped, parts of it felt like 5.9 or M5 to me." Too bad no one else bothered with the intitial gully pitch or pictures. "Pro wasn't that easy to attain on our ascent and most that lead at a 5.7 level would have had their hands full in the upper gully." Our pictures of the full red line are from a couple of days after the video. That first money pitch is steep and looks like this from the belay....with no extra camera tilt. The photos here show the obvious place where the gully splits mid face..right hand snow is the green line in Ade's picture below and it continues around the corner to connect again mid head wall, 60m from the top of the gully. Left hand snow ends at the head wall and a hidden gully entrance where Craig is heading in this picture to complete the entire red line. The hidden entrance is the vertical step in the first picture of the thread with the nice pink granite block on the left. Above the initial "hidden" gully entrance on the red line you get a tight gully that breaks out on to a little arete and changes over to the right hand gully and a small snow field. The YouTube video shows this section clearly. The gully above again tightens down and gets more difficult as you progress. It finally opening a bit at the end becoming almost a face while still following a vertical crack and flake system. The ending is a distinct horizontal flat. I hooked both tools there, standing on rock with monopoints and peeked over, onto a easy angled snow slope with Craig comfortably sitting in belay. Daniel and Dave's pictures. N side traverse and up to the rap boulder and decent gully Daniel's video form the same climb as most of the pictures 11/24/08 [video:youtube] [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Couple more pics from a cool route: Low on the route Looking up the crux pitch, full 60m (green-red line) Traverse to the notch, about 20 minutes from the top From April 2007 with Luke Gullberg and Dave Conlin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 Nice stokes! Dragontail is such a fine peak, isn't it. Seems to me that if this peak lay above Chamonix, there'd be about 40 routes on that one exposure! We sure live in a cool area for 'exploration"! Cheers all, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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