Who is going first in 2010?

[Dane]

Ice on Asgard...this can't be far behind.

 

[DPS]

I'm waiting until March when (hopefully) it will be thickly iced.

[genepires]

I'll wait for the day after DPS goes in so there is a boot pack.

[DPS]

I'll let you know Gene.

[Peakpimp]

I've got my partner lined up just waiting for conditions!!!

[Dane]

Pick a line..any line.

 

[powderhound]

woop!

[Woodcutter]

Would any of you old hands feel like spilling the beans?

I know where starbucks is, and REI, and Mt Stuart - but where exactly is that good granite & ice?

[kevino]

ne coulouir on dragontail. while not a new route, it was "re-discovered" three years ago

Edited October 27, 2010 by kevino

[John Frieh]

Dane! Trying to bait some of the young pups into putting a boot pack in with tilted photos and promises of snow free ice climbing? I'm wise to you!

[Jens]

Sweet pics. The slog down the walk off with a dusting of snow sucks. Somebody want to drill some rap anchors?

[Dane]

Damit Frieh...don't be telling

 

 

 

One of the more condition specific local climbs. Red line in full is typically not done. All the pictures are from that climb.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/854656/1

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/872396/Re_Need_Dragontail_N_E_Coulior#Post872396

 

 

"John Frieh mentioned to me from his climb, "The M5 is easy too... more like M4." On our ascent I found two places got my attention while following, the beginning and the end of the upper headwall gully because of the lack of ice. In between those two points something more like WI 2+ or 3 and M3. Mixed grades are suppose to relate to rock. M3 being 5.7, M4 being 5.8 and M5 being 5.9. Obviously top roped, parts of it felt like 5.9 or M5 to me."

 

Too bad no one else bothered with the intitial gully pitch or pictures.

 

"Pro wasn't that easy to attain on our ascent and most that lead at a 5.7 level would have had their hands full in the upper gully."

 

Our pictures of the full red line are from a couple of days after the video.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That first money pitch is steep and looks like this from the belay....with no extra camera tilt.

 

 

 

The photos here show the obvious place where the gully splits mid face..right hand snow is the green line in Ade's picture below and it continues around the corner to connect again mid head wall, 60m from the top of the gully. Left hand snow ends at the head wall and a hidden gully entrance where Craig is heading in this picture to complete the entire red line. The hidden entrance is the vertical step in the first picture of the thread with the nice pink granite block on the left.

 

 

Above the initial "hidden" gully entrance on the red line you get a tight gully that breaks out on to a little arete and changes over to the right hand gully and a small snow field. The YouTube video shows this section clearly. The gully above again tightens down and gets more difficult as you progress. It finally opening a bit at the end becoming almost a face while still following a vertical crack and flake system. The ending is a distinct horizontal flat. I hooked both tools there, standing on rock with monopoints and peeked over, onto a easy angled snow slope with Craig comfortably sitting in belay.

 

 

Daniel and Dave's pictures.

 

 

 

 

N side traverse and up to the rap boulder and decent gully

 

 

Daniel's video form the same climb as most of the pictures

11/24/08

 

[video:youtube]

 

[video:youtube]

 

[scottgg]

Couple more pics from a cool route:

 

Low on the route

 

Looking up the crux pitch, full 60m (green-red line)

 

Traverse to the notch, about 20 minutes from the top

 

From April 2007 with Luke Gullberg and Dave Conlin

[Don_Serl]

 

 

Nice stokes! Dragontail is such a fine peak, isn't it.

 

Seems to me that if this peak lay above Chamonix, there'd be about 40 routes on that one exposure! We sure live in a cool area for 'exploration"!

 

Cheers all,