Spiral_Out Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 Howdy ya'll, I was just wondering if anybody has any favorite alpine climbs in the I-90 corridor/ sky valley that are conducive to a soloing day trip. Im looking for something that would max out around 5.6 and would not require rappelling so I can run in, fire it, and run out. I'll be checking my becky guide but thought I would dip into the vast knowledge well that is cascade climbers. Cheers Quote
kukuzka1 Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 I soloed the rosevelt-kaleetan traverse in 8.05 hrs round trip. its great. only a short section of not so good rock but most is solid 4th and low 5th and a walk off. have fun Quote
DPS Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) The Tooth is pretty easy to run in, solo up and down and run out. Lundin Peak has a nice low 5th route on it. South Face of Ingalls Peak is about 5.4 and is easy to solo up and down. I think there may be an easier down climb as well? West Ridge of Stuart is 5.6 and is doable in a day and the descent down Cascadian Couloir is non-technical (but not enjoyable either). Edited September 30, 2010 by danielpatricksmith Quote
rock-ice Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 I would add the South Rib of Guye peak to your list, particularly if you do not have a lot of time. The difficulty varies according to your desires and it is very straight forward. Quote
ivan Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 vesper peak - not exactly off the i90 but still close - recent tr's would indicate you can get yerself messed up there if yer not careful though! Quote
lunger Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 all good suggestions. i'd add the W ridge of Thomson, mostly running, with a few pitches of rock. straight from the first Snoq Pass exit. The Red/Lundin/Mt Snoq (or vice-versa) traverse is an entertaining romp too. Quote
Pete_H Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 Not I-90 / Sky Valley, but W Ridge of Forbidden is a good solo day trip from Seattle and uber classic. Quote
Rad Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 W ridge of Thompson. The chimney route up Chair. Warning: a lot of the rock in the SnoQ pass area is loose and fractured. Proceed with caution. Quote
yikes Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) For the record, I advise against Chair Peak. I soloed the NEB with a finish on the East face under the roof. I found it to be mostly loose 4th class with a few steps of low 5th that are no fun to downclimb. Sorry, Rad. I was typing the same time as you. I cannot comment on the Chimney route. Edited September 30, 2010 by yikes Quote
DPS Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 For the record, I advise against Chair Peak. I soloed the NEB with a finish on the East face under the roof. I found it to be mostly loose 4th class with a few steps of low 5th that are no fun to downclimb. NEB loose, really? I don't remember much looseness at all. Must be my memory failing. Quote
j_b Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 There is little doubt that the descent gully is loose. Chair is probably the deadliest Snoqualmie peak fwiw. Quote
DPS Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 There is little doubt that the descent gully is loose. Chair is probably the deadliest Snoqualmie peak fwiw. I guess at some point during my 15 ascents (14 in winter, once in summer) of Chair Peak I should have gleaned that. Quote
j_b Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 I am sure you would Daniel, although it isn't obvious during winter. Quote
chris Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 Oh sarcasm - so much fun to give, but so hard to hear! Quote
kukuzka1 Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 I remember on chairs NEB a very loose class 4 section at about the same hight as the crux band on the east face. I did solo it but i wouldnt again Quote
summitchaserCJB Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 I am sure you would Daniel, although it isn't obvious during winter. It can be somewhat, actually. Quote
DPS Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) I did NEB Chair once in summer. I remember it as a pleasant, solid climb up the 's' shaped gulley, maybe a bit loose once on the ridge, but an easy, clean, leftward traverse across the east face on a ledge system (I recall an old bolt somewhere there) and some blocky climbing on the far left side of the face to gain lower angled heather slopes. These heather slopes were the sketchiest part of the climb. Certainly not hard, not loose, but no pro (no need for a rope at that point anyway). Perhaps the scramble down the gulley to the col was a bit loose but it certainly does not stand out in my mind as being any looser than other Cascades gullies. The rappel down the gulley was a surprise, usually I have done it with one single rope rap over the cornice and downclimbing the rest. This time it took mulitple raps. I do remember taking shelter under chockstones while my partner rapped, but don't remember anything comming down. Burnt into my mind, however, is the horrible scree field below the east face. I did the climb in low top approach shoes and my ankles were pretty banged up afterwards. Can't remember who said it, but a well know alpinist said the most important attribute for an alpinist is a short memory. Now only if I had the other requisite skills I may have amounted to something in the climbing world. Edited October 2, 2010 by danielpatricksmith Quote
summitchaserCJB Posted October 12, 2010 Posted October 12, 2010 (edited) I remember on chairs NEB a very loose class 4 section at about the same hight as the crux band on the east face. I did solo it but i wouldnt again Just did it solo for the first and last time today. The potential for loose rock is just too tangible. I updated some of the alpine rap stations as well (out of necessity). Edited October 12, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote
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