New Zealand, all expenses paid

[runnerwannabe]

I am looking for a guide/teacher/partner for a New Zealand trip. Trip is to start around Nov 20th and to last for ~4 weeks. You will be back home for Christmas to tell the stories.

Below is the preliminary climbing plan and a few things about me. On this trip I will cover your NZ Airline fair, all hotel accommodations, all mountain hut fees, and all helicopter/plane access to the mountain huts. You pay for your food and beer (drinking beer is a must).

You need to be a very experienced climber in good physical shape. You need to be willing to teach me what I need to know and you need to be comfortable with a relatively inexperienced climber on the other end of the rope.

E-mail me at runnerwannabe@verizon.net if you are interested.

I have climbed Mt Rainier, Mt Shasta, Mt Hood (a dozen of times), Mt Adams, Sisters

I am 39 and in exceptional physical shape (~14 hours of training a week in cycling, running, swimming, weight lifting).

I top-rope 5.11 routes in a gym and 5:10 outside.

 

However, I have very limited experience on technical ice/snow routes and that is what I would like to learn in New Zealand.

 

Total trip: ~3.5 weeks. Some weather contingency time is built in

 

New Zealand, South Island

Base out of MT COOK VILLAGE.

 

Three trips into the mountains. Each trip by plane or helicopter to reach the corresponding hut.

 

Trip 1, ~8 days

1) Helicopter ride to Kelman Hut or Tasman Saddle Hut.

2) Climb Mount Elie de Beaumont, return back to the hut

3) Climb Mount Hochstetter Dome, return back to the hut

4) A day of rest

5) Climb mount Green, return back to the hut

6) Helicopter ride back to Mt Cook Village

 

Spend 2 nights in Mt Cook village and head back into the mountains

 

Trip 2, ~6 days

 

1) Helicopter ride to Plateau Hut.

2) Climb Mount Dixon, return back to the hut

3) A day of rest

4) Climb Mount Cook, return back to the hut

5) Helicopter ride back to Mt Cook Village

 

Spend 2 nights in Mt Cook Village and head back into the mountains

 

Trip 3, ~4 days

 

1) Helicopter ride to Pioneer Hut.

2) Climb Mount Tasman - Torres Peak traverse, return back to the hut

3) Helicopter ride back to Mt Cook Village

 

[boadman]

Wow, I wish I had more ice/snow experience.

 

[nels0891]

this really makes me want to drop out of school and go climbing....

[G-spotter]

WTF do you think you're going to do for two nights in Mount Cook village except die of boredom?

[DPS]

Not to shit on your idea, but why not hire a local Kiwi guide? You won't have to pay for airfare or accommodations so it probably won't cost you that much more and you pretty much know that by hiring an IFMGA certified guide you are gettting a top notch guide who knows the local conditions.

[letsroll]

Troll

[genepires]

that is a lot of work for a troll.

[runnerwannabe]

Letsroll, this is not a joke or a troll. I am completely serious.

Genepires, thank you for pointing it out: it is too much work for a troll.

 

[rob]

 

not a troll, huh? so why ignore the one, serious question? why not hire a local guide? Is it really cheaper to find some random dude on the internet and gyp him into doing this for expenses only rather than pay a local, certified guide?

 

You're either a troll or an idiot.

[JosephH]

This would be the guy you want:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/4298

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/554867/Re_TR_Mt_Aspiring_New_Zealand_

[genepires]

from AAI website that has NZ trips

 

 

Our New Zealand ascents are led in conjunction with Adventure Consultants, a New Zealand based guide service and mountaineering school whose internationally certified guides have extensive experience guiding and instructing on the high peaks of the world. AAI and Adventure Consultants offer three ascent programs in the Southern Alps and they are described below.

 

1. A Week of Classic Ascents (7 days, all levels)

Join us for a week of climbing in New Zealand's magnificent Southern Alps as we review skills and then enjoy the pleasures of alpine climbing in this superb range. Climbing at a 2:1 or a 1:1 climber to guide ratio, we customize the itinerary at beginner, intermediate, or more advanced levels to fit your skills and ambitions.

 

 

Guide and climber greet the dawn

above Mt. Cook's Grand Plateau.

This program's use of helicopters and huts allows us to pack a great deal of quality climbing into a short trip. On a typical seven-day itinerary, we first fly to Pioneer Hut on the Fox Glacier where we review skills, and then the next day ascend our first route on Mt. Von Bulow. From the same base we also climb Glacier Peak and Lendenfield Peak and from their summits enjoy tremendous views of the Southern Alps and of the nearby Tasman Sea. We later climb over West-Hoe Pass and establish ourselves at Centennial Hut. From here we can make several ascents, with the beautiful Minarets as a likely choice from which we enjoy terrific views of the many rugged peaks surrounding the upper Tasman Glacier as well as of the Malte Brun Range.

 

Pricing: (Includes air access flight, guiding, permit fees, ground transport, all meals and snacks, hut accommodation, and New Zealand 12.5% GST. )

2:1 - NZ$3150 per person

1:1 - NZ$5350

 

 

so for 7 days it would cost over $5000. He wants 18 days so proportionally it would cost $12860. This is considerably more than his plan for airfare, food, ect. I am not discounting the possibility of this being a troll though but it makes sense number wise. (if he can find a suitable person to take over there which is a expensive gamble)

 

Try finding a seasonal guide who is not working right now and just wants to go climbing. Maybe offer $50 per day with all the expenses too.

[rob]

So this guy, who is a newbie climber, wants 18 days of guiding, instruction and hand-holding from a "very experienced climber" for just expenses and air-travel?

[Off_White]

No need to be so harsh on the guy, but its true that hiring a legit local guide will likely result in a better & safer experience, and a more locally knowledgeable individual. Inexperienced guide wannabe (which is what you're likely to enlist with the offer) coupled with inexperienced mountaineer wannabe (that'd be you) is a combination that can easily result in an unfortunate obituary.

[NateF]

Sounds like a great trip, best of luck finding a good fit.

[DaveH]

As an ex-pat Kiwi now living in Canuckland and with more than 20 years experience in NZ's Southern Alps, I strongly support the comments made by Off_White and a couple of others earlier - if you are inexperienced and want some local assistance, go with a local. Climbing at Mt Cook is not like climbing in the Cascades - if you think the weather can be wet and miserable in the PNW, wait till you see what a ripping nor'wester coming off the Tasman Sea looks like. It can go from cloudless blue skies to a roaring storm in a few hours and that storm can last a day or 3 weeks. Add to that shitty rock, lots of crevasses, ice fall danger (the standard Linda Glacier route up Cook is a shooting gallery for much of its lower half) and long routes. It is not great newbie country.

 

If you're going to fork out a heap of $$$ for a trip like this, why not give yourself a bit of insurance - at least a local can offer good advice on options when the weather hits so you don't spend most of your holiday sitting in a hut or inside the pub staring at the rain outside, or suggest different routes if the ones you want are out of condition or out of your league.

[runnerwannabe]

Rob,

you need to loosen up a bit. Where I grew up, it is not polite to call a guy an idiot unless you’ve gotten drunk with him at least once. I doubt that you would use the same exact words in the real world.

 

Genepires,

you are on the right track. I have, obviously, inquired with the local guiding companies. This was my primary option for a while. It is still an option. And you are correct, money wise a local guiding company is more expensive. You are also correct that going with a local guiding company is probably safer and less troublesome.

But often the “easiest” option is not the most desired option. I did not just want to be “dragged” up these hills by someone who has done it dozens of times. In addition to having a “guide” and a teacher I wanted a partner who would be as excited about the climbs as I am. After all it is a long time in the hills. Having a beer at the Deschutes brewery six months later and remembering the good times would also be a big plus…

 

And, of course, this post is here not to gain public approval. As always in life: to each his own… This post is here to find an interested and qualified person…

 

[boadman]

Sounds like a pretty awesome deal to me. But, I'm not a muppet, so what do I know?

[t_rutl]

the only skill you're lacking is the technical ice/snow piece. 39, not some kid. in good shape. have more climbing experience than a "newbie". you obviously know glacier travel and rope systems.

 

you're just looking to pay the way for a partner as long as they can do the bulk of the leading and impart skills along the way and end up being a climbing partner locally here after?

 

you'll find somebody who will take you up on the offer...probably more than one. sounds like a helluva trip and a lot of fun...as long as the weather cooperates. i've heard it can be a wet cold hell.

 

have fun and post a TR!!

[Hugh Conway]

Rob,

you need to loosen up a bit. Where I grew up, it is not polite to call a guy an idiot unless you’ve gotten drunk with him at least once. I doubt that you would use the same exact words in the real world.

 

Genepires,

you are on the right track. I have, obviously, inquired with the local guiding companies. This was my primary option for a while. It is still an option. And you are correct, money wise a local guiding company is more expensive. You are also correct that going with a local guiding company is probably safer and less troublesome.

But often the “easiest” option is not the most desired option. I did not just want to be “dragged” up these hills by someone who has done it dozens of times. In addition to having a “guide” and a teacher I wanted a partner who would be as excited about the climbs as I am. After all it is a long time in the hills. Having a beer at the Deschutes brewery six months later and remembering the good times would also be a big plus…

 

And, of course, this post is here not to gain public approval. As always in life: to each his own… This post is here to find an interested and qualified person…

 

 

Kiwi local >>> cascade local for what you want

[NoahT]

I knew a guy from the US (climbed together a couple times) who went to NZ to "guide" a stranger up a couple peaks. Sounds similar to what you're looking for.

 

I only mention it to reinforce that it's possible. Feel free to ignore the haters. Lots of people would love a free to trip to NZ.

 

Cheers, N

[Hugh Conway]

I knew a guy from the US (climbed together a couple times) who went to NZ to "guide" a stranger up a couple peaks. Sounds similar to what you're looking for.

 

I only mention it to reinforce that it's possible. Feel free to ignore the haters. Lots of people would love a free to trip to NZ.

 

Cheers, N

 

I'd love a free trip to NZ, and would be more than willing to guide this guy up.

 

Few sane individuals would ever pay for me in that role however.

[tvashtarkatena]

I 'guided' a friend's 20 year old son for 6 days in the Cascades in just such a manner and it was a great experience for both of us. I mulled it over for about 6 months and went on a shorter 'test' climb before finally agreeing to do it, and am really glad i did. Sure, it's an unusual post, but it certainly doesn't warrant the derisive responses regarding 'obituaries' and the like...from moderators no less. Christ.

 

 

[mattp]

I took a complete beginner up Mt. Cook about 20 years ago. Did I say it? This guy was a complete beginner. He'd been trekking in Nepal, which is where I had met him, but he had never climbed any alpine peak and out of some kind of lunacy I said I'd climb Mt. Cook with him. (I wanted to climb Mt. Cook and worried that I might not have a partner for such a venture if I just showed up there. As it turned out, I was wrong, and I actually met a qualified partner for a more difficult route that we climbed a few days later.)

 

My beginner did very well and we made the summit and got back down safely and in fairly good time but I realized that even though I had prior guiding experience and the climb was well within my own level of mastery I had absolutely no business doing such a thing. I had no prior knowledge of the range and although this would not have changed much of what I actually did on that climb it would have made a world of difference in how I was prepared for it.

 

Right in front of us on the Summit Rocks was a New-Zealand-based guide and his German client, and I gotta say: my "client" got to the summit and back (for "free") but the guide's client got the better package. I can't remember but the guide may have been named "Bruce." Bruce was very charming, knowledgeable, and fun to be around. And he knew the mountain.

 

I'd recommend the local guide. I'm sure you know this, runnerwannabe, but I'd also say that you should expect to actually get way less than 1/2 of your itinerary done in the time period you describe. I don't mean to be discouraging in any way: the Alps are very cool. But the typical storm period is something like one every three days and climbing there is not at all a sure bet.

[Lucky Larry]

I like the guide that has down time idea: completely reasonable; they can always say no. I like the idea so much I may use it myself, primarily because I usually don't know when I will be "in" or 'out' of recovery and do not like to bail on people. However, I am on a couple of peoples list as the last person to call- I think I will use this in my next post for a partner. Plenty of people looking for work below their usual rate doesn't make them cheap or you the bad guy. Just a guy that doesn't have a lot of cash helping someone that needs some.

[EastCoastBastard]

Hey

I'm an ex-pat living in NZ, been here for 4 years, and have done a fair amount of climbing in the southern alps - somebody linked to one of my tr's a while back (actually it was Blake's tr, but I was the other guy).

 

I'd strongly recommend avoiding NZ if you want to get some good climbing done - 95% of the time the weather is TERRIBLE. Most of my trips I spend days/weeks waiting for a weather window that never comes. Occasionally I get some okay stuff done, but it's pretty rare and frustrating. I certainly wouldn't want to fly halfway around the world to sit in the rain.

 

If you do insist on coming here - hire a guide, most of them are super nice people, can teach you tonnes and you'll probably have a good time.

 

If you insist on not hiring a guide - why not check out the NZ climbing forums and look for a climber already here? There will be heaps. www.mountainz.co.nz is the site you want. It's not as popular as cc.com, but it does get some traffic. Lots of people also show up at Mt.Cook village in the summer months with all the gear and little/no experience and meet other folks who drag them up stuff. It's mostly australians that do this, but there's no nationality requirement.

 

Please PM me or email me if you have any questions or anything.

 

Adios

 

Graham

 

 

Edited September 16, 2010 by EastCoastBastard