I need rope advice!

[jdiede]

Hey there guys. I am looking at two different ropes and could use some advice. I am looking at the Mammut 10.2 super safe and the Bluewater 9.7 Lightning Pro. I have been climbing for two years now. I am comfortably climbing at the 5.10 level with the occasional 5.11. I dont want a super thick boy but also want some durability. I was also wondering if the 1mm shealth slippage on the Bluewater is a deal breaker or nothing to worry about. I sport climb, top rope and am picking up trad fairly quickly. Let me know what you think thank you.

[keenwesh]

9.7

get that shit.

[Le Piston]

If you plan to stick to mostly sport or trad short approach climbs where weight doesn't matter much...I'd go with the beefier rope. If you plan on doing alpine rock climbs, the 9.7mm should give you plenty of durability and save precious ounces in your pack. That is assuming you are only able to afford one rope. Cheers!

[selkirk]

If you plan to stick to mostly sport or trad short approach climbs where weight doesn't matter much...I'd go with the beefier rope. If you plan on doing alpine rock climbs, the 9.7mm should give you plenty of durability and save precious ounces in your pack. That is assuming you are only able to afford one rope. Cheers!

 

what he said

[boadman]

What's the actual difference in weight between a 9.7 and a 10.2? Two pounds? I can't see it actually being a big deal. Skinny ropes do clip nicer while they last, but considering how often you have to replace your rope, I would go with the cheapest, longest lasting one that you can find and not worry about anything else. I mostly crag, but I do a few alpine routes every year too, and I never notice my 10.2 ropes slowing me down.

[spotly]

Two pounds here, an ounce there - it all adds up for me but then again, I tend towards wimpy when it comes to hauling my own butt up the long approaches, yet alone gear.

 

I personally don't use the same rope for cragging that I use for alpine rock. My crag rope takes a beating what with hang-dogging and falling and stray dogs pissing on it. So, if you're mainly cragging, get the sturdier rope then pick up a skinny once you start doing more remote rock routes....if you can afford it. If I couldn't afford both, I'd go with the fatty and volunteer to carry the rack on the longer trips

[Jarek]

I also have two ropes for the same reason. Get 10.2 first, unless you climb mostly alpine with long approaches. After you carry your 10.2 a few times up the mountains it will be easier for you to justify the expense to buy a lighter rope. But you would still use your 10.2 for general cragging or climbing gym...

[RJRiha]

Mammut ropes seem to be thicker than other brands. I'm not sure if this is just the way they handle, wear, or if they have a different way of measuring (I haven't measured a new one myself). I'm a big fan of Mammut ropes, but a 10mm seems to be similar to a 10.2 of other brands.

[stevetimetravlr]

Ropes that don't have a dry treatment tend to fuzz up more and seem thicker after they have been used a bit, then ones that have a dry treatment. In my experience that is. Got to love that dry treatment!

[Edlinger]

Sadly, you are between a rock and hard place. Bluewater ropes suck worse than any other brand made and.... the Mammut brand 10.2mm choice is much too thick for climbing at one's limit.

[keenwesh]

the 9.7 comes in fluorescent yellow right? I've used it and it seemed pretty beefy while still light enough for comfort on hard climbing. I think that a ~9.8 mil rope is the perfect balance between lightness and durability. it's still kinda heavy for alpine but it's not quite the slug like the <10mil's

I still say the 9.7, and if you want a true alpine rope get the mammut 9.2, a real skinny and light rope, the 8.9 is just too thin...

[JosephH]

the Mammut brand 10.2mm choice is much too thick for climbing at one's limit.

Please, tell me that's a troll! On what pitch? What, a 60m pitch with a crux in the final moves [carrying a heavy rack]?

[RuMR]

Sadly, you are between a rock and hard place. Bluewater ropes suck worse than any other brand made and.... the Mammut brand 10.2mm choice is much too thick for climbing at one's limit.

i once fell off a route cuz my rope was too heavy...

[billcoe]

I've fallen off routes cause my ass was too heavy.

 

The Supersafe will last you much longer, if you plan on more Top roping/lowering off rather than pushing your limits on lead or doing longer multipitch, that's the one I'd get if the price was the same.

 

If the reverse is true I'd swap out my recommendation for the other one.

 

Good luck.

[kevbone]

Bluewater sucks. Go with Mammut.

[Frankazoid]

My 9.8 has taken tons of abuse. I put my ropes through a lot! I dont think you need a monster 10. something... I lead with it, lower on it, rap with it, jug it, explore through dirtyness with it (don't take that one the wrong way... And it's still solid.

 

For a climbing only rope, my next buy will be a petzl 9.2.

 

I have lead a few pitches with my friends 9.2 and love it. It's hard to tell it's even there. So- if you want something that can take some abuse i would check out the 9.8's out there.

[markwebster]

[begin old school rant]

I hate this trend toward skinny ropes. I started on 11's, led my hardest climbs ever on 11's and hexes. I always buy the cheapest, thickest rope I can find.

 

My buddy has a 9.2 or something. I've led on it, and it feels like dental floss to me. I don't alpine climb anymore, but if I did, I might think about buying some dental floss.

 

I used to swear by Edelweiss, but my last one got stiff. I currently use that green and white stripped one rei sells. Forget the brand, but it furred up nicely before getting any snags and now it's bulletproof.

 

I love thick ropes!

 

[/end old school rant]

[bstach]

Get the 10.2. Mammut makes ropes that handle real nice.

[Tyson.g]

x2 Just got one and used it over Memorial day Weekend, Very nice indeed!

[eldiente]

For most of us, rope weight isn't the deciding factor in a successful climb. However I'll say that fat ropes just aren't as much fun. I always feel more agile when leading on a skinny cord vs fat. If budget is an issue, I'd climb on old cams and beat-up draws but still spend the extra for a thin rope. Clipping a nice skinny cord feels so good!

 

That said, I like a 9.7 or 9.8 for all around crag use, seems to last about 2 years with about 70-90 days of use. For alpine or long routes, I like 8.9-9.2 and seem to get 2-4 years of life. (Sadly I don't alpine climb as much as I'd like) I'm a bit conservative with ropes and retire them before I really need to.

 

The other thought is how cheap ropes really are when you think about it. Ok $250 a rope that lasts 90 days. That's $2.70 per day of climbing. Usually a day of cragging sets me back at least $40 in gas. So that said, splurge and buy a skinny rope and have more fun.

Edited June 7, 2011 by eldiente

[Frankazoid]

So that said, splurge and buy a skinny rope and have more fun.

 

 

Well said! A friend of mine buy's a 9.2 once a year, but climbs 4 days a week- working hard routes and taking lots of whips. If your not putting your rope through hell 208 days a year, then buy a skinny and enjoy the weightlessness and easy clipping for quite some time.

[RuMR]

just buy the cheapest you can find in a 70m...diameter is irrelevant...

 

sheesh, its a frickin rope...big f-ing deal...

[Mike Barter]

I will not redeem the 15 minutes of your life.