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Jarek

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About Jarek

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    n00b
  1. Complete AT Ski Setup, Silvretta 500, Atomic 175cm, skins, crampons - $350 http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/spo/4340978598.html
  2. We have two pairs of ski boots for sale: Dalbello Menace 4 Ski Boots - Juniors - size 23.5 asking $89 - OBO Rossignol Comp J4 Ski Boots - Juniors Size 23.5 asking $79 - OBO Both pairs were used half of the season last year, we purchased them brand new. For this season the boots are too small for my sons. Both pairs of boots are in great shape, they look almost like new. As far as I know they are the best choices on the market for the ski boots for Junior skiers. More info and pictures: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/spo/3435631069.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/spo/3435627503.html
  3. Ice axe leashes?

    Why not to get a few feet of the 1/2" webbing and experiment? Go on a hike to place where you can safely practice self arrest. Tie in the webbing as a hand leash and then compare with the one attached directly to your harness. Compare both systems while ascending and then self arresting. When you self arrest, drop an ice axe and then try to recover it while you slide. I personally prefer hand leash in most cases. Also on switchbacks, I use a trekking pole for my other hand, so I don't have to switch hands too often. But I see how direct attachment to the harness might be better option for other people. Once you know what works the best for you, you can invest and buy more professional hand or harness leash.
  4. When'd you make your kid a climbing "partner?"

    Around 9 should be fine if the kid spent enough time belaying at the gym... The Gri-gri2 works best for my son...
  5. Rainier Trail Food

    I noticed the same effect. And actually when I move and "overbreath" (just breathe deeper and more frequent than the actual situation requires) my performance is changing form stopping every so often to significantly faster pace (twice?)almost non-stop. The oxygen is food, and it seems like over ventilation helps balance reduced content of the oxygen in the air.
  6. Introducing the vertical world

    +1 on the above... Also I use to put plastic animal toys on the holds, and ask my boys to rescue them... Each time I would put the toy a couple holds higher... they loved this game...
  7. +1, I use the Grivel Tech Evo 57cm and Aztar... I think Venom might be better because you can replace a pick... This is perfect combo for me for Alpine and technical stuff on Rainier...
  8. What is the best crampon bag for grivel g-12's?

    Another option is a backpack with crampons storage packet built in. I have DB Predator, and all my storage problems are solved. Not only for crampons but also there is a mesh for the helmet, another item which is typically pain the rear end to pack... I really like that backpack. It is light weight, super comfy... It has holders for skis, and space for plastic ice screw holders, so you have easy access to your gear when you climb technical routes with it... It seems like this is one of the few backpacks where designers were paying attention to details...
  9. Soloing on Rainier?

    I have been applying for solo permit every year for some time now, never had any problems. Typical turn around time is less than a week. I email the same form each year with minor updates like date, and chosen routes. A few years ago you had to receive a formal letter (via email), but now you just get a quick confirmation email, you print it and you are good to go. It seems like park doesn't want to refuse a permit, they just want to make sure that you know what you are against. Since they will be helping you in case of the emergency, I think this is reasonable for them to make sure that people are aware about dangers.
  10. Liberty Ridge July 2 - 5

    Partner found!
  11. Looking for a partner for Liberty Ridge July 2 - 5, please have experience and be in shape.
  12. I need rope advice!

    I also have two ropes for the same reason. Get 10.2 first, unless you climb mostly alpine with long approaches. After you carry your 10.2 a few times up the mountains it will be easier for you to justify the expense to buy a lighter rope. But you would still use your 10.2 for general cragging or climbing gym...
  13. Ingraham Direct on Sunday thru Wed?

    I would call a park climbing rangers a day before and take a download regarding conditions... It seems like the mountain is loaded with snow, and you will be climbing 30 -40 degree slopes, the primary suspects for the avalanche... If conditions are not good I would wait... Your climbing will be much more enjoyable on a day with good visibility and blue skies
  14. Your gear list on Rainier?

    Great list! I use very similar one with some minor differences: 1. Instead of T-shirt I use a long sleeve white synthetic undershirt stretching over my neck - it is a great protection from a sun if it is hot specifically on the approach 2. Gore-tex pack-light jacket instead of Medium Weight to save on weight 3. Light non-plastic boots, but with capability to use step-in crampons (this way you can use the same set of crampons for both plastic and non-plastic boots). I use Boreal model - this is major weight saving item! - I use these boots from trekking to climbing technical, vertical ice routes and they perform well assuming it is not extremely cold. For DC summer route they are perfect. Needless to say Rainier winter time I go full plastic! 4. Belay device - on DC I don't take one, I use Munter Hitch instead if needed at all... 5. Thermarest inflatable - heavy, I just use standard non-inflatable single Thermarest. It was always sufficient for me... 6. GPS instead of compass, altimeter and clock 7. I like to have a pee bottle - I drink a large Gatorade during approach and have a bottle to use as a pee-bottle 8. I typically take pulley with me... 9. I don't take a shovel summer time... Other comments to save weight: I use very light tent - Black Diamond Lighthouse - total ~ 3 lb with some change... Rope - light 8mm... Backpack - BD Predator ~ 4lb... I think the biggest problem is always to justify the $ expense on a better-lighter item, specifically if you already have something which works. But the technology and materials are getting better and lighter each year, so I try to follow and to slim down the weight of my pack within a $ reason... I am sure manufacturers of the gear like it very much
  15. fine tuning gear selection

    I use similar setup for summer, thin long sleeve white synthetic undershirt, long sleeve polartec jacket, pack-lite gore-tex shell and down jacket for rests or if it really gets cold...
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