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Mike Barter

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Everything posted by Mike Barter

  1. your moderaters have turned this site into a place for themselves and their little egos which explains the drop in attendence over the years. won't be back nor ever contribute again.
  2. Spend 4 days to one week in Banff in Jan and you'll never ask that question again!
  3. Not sure that is such a great example there are a couple things in that video that distract me from what I should be learning.
  4. Laugh if you want but ice routes of this type are the best they have been in at least 15 years. wnat a bad rep safely this is your year to bag these routes. Strain, central , sky. etc....
  5. I will not redeem the 15 minutes of your life.
  6. You will not recover the 15 minutes you lost watching this video!! Stay in the climbing game long enough and your sure to deal with foul weather. This video deals with a few tips about getting the ends of the rope down when wind is present. This video does not cover rappelling in any great detail as we have done that in more detail on other videos. Most of the time grabbing a few coils throwing them off to space is enough. As the wind picks up you may actually have to carry the coils down with you. This is not as bad as one might think if done correctly. Series on how to rap This first covers what knot you use to tie the ropes together. This one deals with dividing the rope. This one deals with hooking up your rap device and backup prussik. The merits of the backup prussik where to put it and why. Mountain Guide Tom Wolfe describing a couple of methods backing up your rap.
  7. If you have climbed outside before don't watch this. I will not redeem the 25 minutes of your life it's gone. Just like a Ninja.
  8. I'm all confused now! Which would you say is bigger your mouth or your ass? How do you find clothes that fit?
  9. This issue was about the anchors , how and why. Only one persons perspective however he does it so many time I felt I was about to puke a anchor towards the end. Good for those just starting out boring for everybody else.
  10. Before you spend to much on trinkets and things.
  11. In this edition Mike gives advice on how to maintain a lasting relationship. As http://youtube.com/sawbackwc asks mike his secrets to being a guide and yet maintaining a healthy relationship. At what angle do you place a ice screw? http://youtube.com/mgbanach makes the bold statement that you always place a ice screw at a positive angle. (Downward so that the hanger is tilted in the angle of pull/load.) This was a comment make on the http://youtube.com/mikebarter387 site. Mike however is not really so sure that you can make a definitive statement like this and that perhaps ice quality may come into play also. Kid and the outdoors. http://youtube.com/domu888 Domu has a 2.5 year old kid who he wants to introduce to the outdoors. I have a unit the exact same age so I can relate to his situation. I also have units 14 and 1`5 years of age and will take the same approach that I took with them I suppose. The youngest Jaxx is on the Banff climbing team and the oldest doesn’t climb as well but skis like greased lightning. Links to this episode. Will Gadd has a good point and so do your crampons http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2007/01/ice-screw-testing.html Craig Luebben test found in Google Books http://books.google.ca/books?id=eLJNVA3FwScC&pg=PA150&lpg=PA150&dq=ice+screw+testing+Craig+Luebben&source=bl&ots=lWZyYDwFVo&sig=KVQscEwybg25tUKcXMr6LXlkETg&hl=en&ei=s1jQS6WgOZyotAOsjcDUDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CAoQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false Chris Harmston/Black Diamond http://www.needlesports.com/advice/placingscrews.htm
  12. This is a weekly "sorta" as I am out a couple days this week so it will be two days late. This one is about friction knots and crevasse rescue and the basics of short roping. also in the apple itunes podcast section "climbing tools:mountaineering lessons"
  13. Punchin cows the other day and it dawned on me I had not covered the bowline. The bowline
  14. I'm not convinced about some of the other things you said, but you definitely got the kern (inner core) and mantle (outer sheath) mixed up You're right. We should just call it core and sheath. Fixed my post. My guess is that the german to english translation would be core and sheath. Cordelette french to english might sound like "rope or cord or piece of string.
  15. Not practical method or rapping unless off a single strand back to the ground in a emergency. Method is primarily for lowering and/or managing heavy loads.
  16. Will Why do people generally fall in crevasses? Is it because the glacier is bare ice and we can see all the crevasses coming from 50 meters away or is it because the glacier is snow covered and the crevasses are bridged and we don't know where they are. In the case you are describing my peeps and I walk up the glacier in crampons rope in the pack. You should always be carrying a ice screw on the glacier. Pop through a bridge and if you are close enough to the sidewall you may want to sink that puppy and tie off till your sure that your bro's have a anchor constructed. Been in a one crevasse over the last couple decades. I don't scare real easy but I found the event a bit unnerving. somewhere on this site is a video of me taken seconds after being hauled out.
  17. burning down the White House count?
  18. Didn't we win the world series a couple times in that bad version of cricket you play. If it's a world series don't you think more countries should be involved? I'll put two hockey players in the mail for you.
  19. Make fun of Hockey one more time and I will have Harper withdraw our troops from Afgan
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