danhelmstadter Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Trip: Icicle crick - classic crack Date: 4/7/2010 Trip Report: Though this may not be the most epicest of trip reports, it was a big & fun day for me cause it was the first time i've been rock climbing since I dropped out of my high school (brookline high) climbing club back in '98 to pursue heights in more delinquent activites. I got some video of the cat-like John Plotz smoothly jamming his way up the classic crack, as well as some of my desperate flailings. [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnikinnick Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 gee thanks that video ruins my onsight attempt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Have you seen the Blair Witch Project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Dan sent classic first try, and followed up with Deception Crack and the smearing arete, first try as well. We're in trouble if his climbing abilty matches his skiing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 great choice of video tuneage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Great perspective. Makes it look way harder than it is. Not to spray but it looks like you could have used a directional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 We could all use a directional.....sumitchaser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Totally could have used a directional, as well as a three point, equalized anchor with a munter mule backup, matching chest harnesses to prevent upsidedown falls, a dedicated 11mm rope to prevent sheath abrasion, knee pads, helmets, two-way radios, PLB's, and a bolt kit. As it was, we were kinda sticking our asses way out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I'd say on a climb like that as long as you brought the guidebook, map, compass, and something to get a fire going in case you got benighted you should be able to make due. Seriously though good work Dan. I'm sure you'll make a fine climber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Not to spray but it looks like you could have used a directional. OMGSTFUTISWOOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Hey now, TR rules apply. Not been out since 98? That's a long layoff, welcome back Dan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I'd say on a climb like that as long as you brought the guidebook, Oh, so this climb is in the new guidebook? Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Dudes, no chalk???? no tape??? Sick! Way to go Dan, looks like you are a natural. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 where's the picnic table adn keg?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 that is a pretty looking route. must not see much traffic though, judging by all the moss and lichen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Route finding was a major concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 We're in trouble if his climbing abilty matches his skiing! Totally! My first crack attempt was so pathetic, I could not even get up halfway. BTW, "Endtroducing" is quite an original choice for the soundtrack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 My first crack attempt was so pathetic, I could not even get up halfway. heeheehee... ditto! even funnier is that i don't have to think all the way back to my first attempt at crack to remember just how pathetic it was - i can just remember about 5 weeks ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Yeah, but how much "classicism" did that crack of yours have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Yeah, but how much "classicism" did that crack of yours have? actually, since you asked, it was classic crack at b-tons. pretty classic, i'd say... tried to onsight it and fell just below the faceholds at the top - twice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 ...then there was free for all, blownout, and windsurfer(though i've only aided that one). got some other pretty classic cracks that i've done too, but can't recall all the names - pain killers are hindering my thought processes at the moment... and my motivation to remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 What is the grade on this "classic crack"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Yeah, but how much "classicism" did that crack of yours have? just curious how you are defining classic... the icicle crick classic crack looks pretty classic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 What is the grade on this "classic crack"? do you mean the one in this tr or the one at b-tons, kev? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 What is the grade on this "classic crack"? i'd say that the grade on this one would be a I... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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