[TR] Icicle crick - classic crack 4/7/2010

[danhelmstadter]

Trip: Icicle crick - classic crack

 

Date: 4/7/2010

 

Trip Report:

Though this may not be the most epicest of trip reports, it was a big & fun day for me cause it was the first time i've been rock climbing since I dropped out of my high school (brookline high) climbing club back in '98 to pursue heights in more delinquent activites.

 

I got some video of the cat-like John Plotz smoothly jamming his way up the classic crack, as well as some of my desperate flailings.

 

 

 

[video:youtube]

[kinnikinnick]

gee thanks that video ruins my onsight attempt!

[goatboy]

Have you seen the Blair Witch Project?

[telemarker]

Dan sent classic first try, and followed up with Deception Crack and the smearing arete, first try as well. We're in trouble if his climbing abilty matches his skiing!

[mountainsloth]

great choice of video tuneage!

 

[summitchaserCJB]

Great perspective. Makes it look way harder than it is. Not to spray but it looks like you could have used a directional.

[Dirtyleaf]

We could all use a directional.....sumitchaser

[telemarker]

Totally could have used a directional, as well as a three point, equalized anchor with a munter mule backup, matching chest harnesses to prevent upsidedown falls, a dedicated 11mm rope to prevent sheath abrasion, knee pads, helmets, two-way radios, PLB's, and a bolt kit. As it was, we were kinda sticking our asses way out there.

[Dannible]

I'd say on a climb like that as long as you brought the guidebook, map, compass, and something to get a fire going in case you got benighted you should be able to make due.

 

Seriously though good work Dan. I'm sure you'll make a fine climber.

[ScottP]

Not to spray but it looks like you could have used a directional.

 

OMGSTFUTISWOOL

[Off_White]

Hey now, TR rules apply.

 

Not been out since 98? That's a long layoff, welcome back Dan.

[telemarker]

I'd say on a climb like that as long as you brought the guidebook,

 

Oh, so this climb is in the new guidebook? Cool.

[Pilchuck71]

Dudes, no chalk???? no tape??? Sick!

 

Way to go Dan, looks like you are a natural.

[ivan]

where's the picnic table adn keg?!?

[G-spotter]

that is a pretty looking route. must not see much traffic though, judging by all the moss and lichen

[telemarker]

Route finding was a major concern.

[YocumRidge]

We're in trouble if his climbing abilty matches his skiing!

 

Totally!

 

My first crack attempt was so pathetic, I could not even get up halfway.

 

BTW, "Endtroducing" is quite an original choice for the soundtrack.

 

 

[LostCamKenny]

My first crack attempt was so pathetic, I could not even get up halfway.

heeheehee... ditto! even funnier is that i don't have to think all the way back to my first attempt at crack to remember just how pathetic it was - i can just remember about 5 weeks ago

[YocumRidge]

Yeah, but how much "classicism" did that crack of yours have?

[LostCamKenny]

Yeah, but how much "classicism" did that crack of yours have?

actually, since you asked, it was classic crack at b-tons. pretty classic, i'd say... tried to onsight it and fell just below the faceholds at the top - twice

[LostCamKenny]

...then there was free for all, blownout, and windsurfer(though i've only aided that one). got some other pretty classic cracks that i've done too, but can't recall all the names - pain killers are hindering my thought processes at the moment... and my motivation to remember

[kevbone]

What is the grade on this "classic crack"?

[LostCamKenny]

Yeah, but how much "classicism" did that crack of yours have?

just curious how you are defining classic... the icicle crick classic crack looks pretty classic...

[LostCamKenny]

What is the grade on this "classic crack"?

do you mean the one in this tr or the one at b-tons, kev?

[LostCamKenny]

What is the grade on this "classic crack"?

i'd say that the grade on this one would be a I...