summitchaserCJB Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 Is it unreasonable to go leashless without pinky rests? I have umbilicals and an aztar and a straight shafted tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 So if I want to lead some 5.13 death route... and it just so happens that I get psyched by watching a pro climber lead their 5.13 death routes. I am being stupid and unsafe by following trends? WTF? What if I want to so something kinda dangerous for the same reasons that you want to climb the average 5.10 crack? This thread is idiotic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 climbing leashless without umbilicals is great you should try it rapping with a 5mil tag line is perfectly acceptable falling while leading is necessary to get better taping your ice tools, that's crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 marc- In that case, yes. Some people wouldn't think so. It all depends on the trends. Hey man- this is more philosophical than practical at this point. If you want to do something that is dangerous for the same reason I want to climb 5.10 I'd say you are reckless. But you are presuming you know my reasons for climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 i've devolved into a chain-smoking road-bound aid-tard, how's that for a trend eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 i've devolved into a chain-smoking road-bound aid-tard, how's that for a trend eh? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 marc- In that case, yes. Some people wouldn't think so. It all depends on the trends. Hey man- this is more philosophical than practical at this point. If you want to do something that is dangerous for the same reason I want to climb 5.10 I'd say you are reckless. But you are presuming you know my reasons for climbing. Â Yeah but what I if I want to send a hard R/X rated route just because I want to send that route.... I don't think its dumb, I think it would be awesome to accomplish something like that. I don't hear you bitching about Dave Mcloed for sending hard 5.14 bold lines... I bet you look up to badass pro climbers who send 5.13 R lines. So why is it bad when someone who isn't a 'pro' climber does it... anyways, some people leading a 5.13 R after TR rehearsal is liely safer than the nebs with the shiny new gear trying to lead some 5.8 with no idea wtf they are doing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 Well, for one thing pros usually have a lot of experience with hard routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 who just don't give a fuck like me who dress like me; walk, talk and act like me and just might be the next best thing but not quite me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 "If I have seen further it is only by standing on the shoulders of giants." Â Shoulder stands are aid. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 "Media image slaves live by random selection" - Neil Young Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Better to stay on the couch and push remote buttons rather than trying to push any limits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 "Media image slaves live by random selection" Ok. But we all select information in a biased fashion. It is called confirmation bias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benb Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Damn! There went five minutes I will never get back. WTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 falling while leading is necessary to get better  Guess I'm going to stick with being a WI4 climber then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Start mixed climbing it will make ice feel easy. The falls are a lot safer too (use your judgement though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 marc- In that case, yes. Some people wouldn't think so. It all depends on the trends. Hey man- this is more philosophical than practical at this point. If you want to do something that is dangerous for the same reason I want to climb 5.10 I'd say you are reckless. But you are presuming you know my reasons for climbing. Â Yeah but what I if I want to send a hard R/X rated route just because I want to send that route.... I don't think its dumb, I think it would be awesome to accomplish something like that. I don't hear you bitching about Dave Mcloed for sending hard 5.14 bold lines... I bet you look up to badass pro climbers who send 5.13 R lines. So why is it bad when someone who isn't a 'pro' climber does it... anyways, some people leading a 5.13 R after TR rehearsal is liely safer than the nebs with the shiny new gear trying to lead some 5.8 with no idea wtf they are doing... Â What you said was a whole bunch of garbage. I think Dave Mcloed is a wanker. It seems like he's looking for a reach around at every corner to boost his ego. Better check your hand, it might be a little sticky. Â IF you want to send a hard r/x route just because "you want to"...that sound a little stupid. You been watching too much hard grit. I've climbed hard run out routs....you better know why your doin it bro....come on now...just cause i want to doesn't cut it in my book. Â Why diss on the new 5.8 leader...you got some kinda of superiority complex. Â I've never looked up to pro climbers. The whole idea seems stupid to me. I go out and get mine, they get theirs...but there really isn't that much seperating us in this sport. Once again....I think they are almost all wankers. I have so much more respect for the brothers and sisters who quietly put down their hard projects without spraying to the world. These folks are the real badasses. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 I have so much more respect for the brothers and sisters who quietly put down their hard projects without spraying to the world. These folks are the real badasses. Â I agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Â Why diss on the new 5.8 leader...you got some kinda of superiority complex. Â Â Im just saying that a 5.14 climber leading a 5.12+ R/X is almost safer than a newbie with no instruction and a shiny new rack trying to lead a 5.8.. placing gear all wrong and skeching up the route. I've seen a lot of it myself but nobody says anything about it, so why say strong climbers leading runout routes withing their abilities is stupid? I think you're stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Keep digging. You'll find it eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Just not anytime soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainwreck Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 i climb leashless without umbilicals pretty much all the time. i also read alpinist. Â i hope i am okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Sounds like it's your belayer who needs to watch out.....but you're probably soloing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 "Im just saying that a 5.14 climber leading a 5.12+ R/X is almost safer than a newbie with no instruction and a shiny new rack trying to lead a 5.8.. placing gear all wrong and skeching up the route. I've seen a lot of it myself but nobody says anything about it, so why say strong climbers leading runout routes withing their abilities is stupid? I think you're stupid." Â "Just not anytime soon." Â Ya. Do I even need to respond? The R/X does mean something. Look it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 (edited) "i climb leashless without umbilicals pretty much all the time. i also read alpinist. Â i hope i am okay." I donno, your profile says your a noob. Edited February 14, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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